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Old 11-08-2014, 07:52 PM   #61
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I'll take rational advice every time. I very much appreciate your guidance, dear friends.

Accordingly, went to the garage, dipped into my junk-too-good-to-dump box, and there it was: Left over from a long ago wiring project, the exact, correct length of Romex wire necessary. I kid you not.

I was absolutely not wanting to rip things open again, in particular the furnace, but using the 12 volt wire and tape to smooth the passage, pulled that Romex through the chase to the inverter. Minor resistance behind the furnace. It is done. All is good.

...Oh, ... just noticed a red light on the big brown fuse panel ... huh?... there's a short someplace in the furnace wiring. :

Tomorrow.
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Old 11-08-2014, 07:57 PM   #62
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OK, I'd better be careful about what details show when I post photos of my inverter work.

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Old 11-08-2014, 08:12 PM   #63
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Jeepers Ron... (this is your thread...didn't mean to hijack...) Show us what you got, big fella. Love looking at a good detailed photo.
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Old 11-08-2014, 08:13 PM   #64
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Ron,
It's all good; the more that is posted, the more we learn, and appreciate.
Myron,
Nicely done, with a box w/built-in romex clamp. But, on the upper neutral slot on the face of the receptacle: is that a drop of blood sacrificed to the "escape" gods?
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Old 11-08-2014, 08:15 PM   #65
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I strongly recommend the use of this kind of tester (much cheaper at Lowes/Home Depot) for all 120V outlets: AEMC OT-2 Outlet and GFCI Tester for 100 to 125V AC: Voltage Testers: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

The lights verify the outlet is wired correctly or identify the problem. The button tests (trips) an upstream GFCI, if there is one. After testing the GFCI you will have to reset it.
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Old 11-08-2014, 08:15 PM   #66
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No, Doug. Black is to bronze metal screw, white is to white screw. In my pix that white wire is going to the other side, though it doesn't look like it. The red light on the panel is definitely for the blown fuse for the furnace and pump.

No-no, but the blood may flow tomorrow.
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Old 11-08-2014, 08:22 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyronL View Post
No, Doug. Black is to bronze metal screw, white is to white screw. In my pix that white wire is going to the other side, though it doesn't look like it. The red light on the panel is definately for the blown fuse for the furnace and pump.
My bad - I looked at the picture closer - and deleted my post. Sorry.

I recommend (I don't always do) flipping the 12V disconnect before working on things. That avoids accidental shorts and fuse fun when installing/removing things
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Old 11-08-2014, 10:24 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyronL View Post
Jeepers Ron... (this is your thread...didn't mean to hijack...) Show us what you got, big fella. Love looking at a good detailed photo.
Didn't get much done today. Wife wanted to put up new blinds. Somehow it got turned into my project

My inverter connection is on track and I don't anticipate any problems and I will post photos.

I'm going to open another thread entitled "Electrical Panel Explained" because there's a few items that I want to point out that might be of use to anyone working on the panel. How do you put the text on the photos you post?

Oh, and all's well that ends well

Ron
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Old 11-09-2014, 07:59 PM   #69
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OK, one more item to cross off the to-do list

Actually I view this as a temporary step. But I've learned temporary sometimes means pretty permanent. We'll see, I'd like to have a panel between the table and the window with solar controller and remote inverter switch etc. For the time being this gives me the microwave while on battery power only.

Wire formally on circuit breaker moved to center position of DPDT switch. It now receives power from either shore power or the inverter. It's a poor man's transfer switch

Ron
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Old 11-10-2014, 06:50 AM   #70
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Seems like a pain to have to remove the table and cushions just to use the microwave?
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