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Old 09-23-2013, 02:58 PM   #1
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Fresh water tank

When filling the fresh water hold does the hot water tank fill first ?
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Old 09-23-2013, 03:54 PM   #2
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The hot water tank will only fill from the tank if you open a hot tap and turn on the pump.

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Old 09-23-2013, 03:55 PM   #3
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When filling the fresh water hold does the hot water tank fill first ?
No the fresh water inlet just fills the fresh water tank. If you use the city water (hose) connection and have a hot water tap open in the kitchen or bathroom, it will fill the hot water tank, (as long as the bypass valve is not closed). You can fill the hot water tank from the fresh water tank using the 12v pump the same way, by filling the fresh water tank then turning on a hot water tap.
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Old 09-23-2013, 04:19 PM   #4
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The reason I asked is because we have dedicated the rear dinette as a full time bed with a full time mattress. Accessing the hot water by-pass is a hassle as it involves removing the mattress only to do it all again in the spring. I drained all tanks (hot water, black water, grey water and fresh). Now I want to dump 38Ltrs of RV plumbing antifreeze into the fresh water tank, turn on the pump and run each tap and toilet until pink comes out.
Is this going to work?
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Old 09-23-2013, 04:34 PM   #5
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You don't want to do that.
You want to follow the instructions, drain the HW tank, use the bypass valves, etc. etc.
I believe there is a sticky on winterizing on the forum.
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Old 09-23-2013, 04:53 PM   #6
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Okay. But why wouldn't it work?
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Old 09-23-2013, 04:55 PM   #7
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I would imagine your trailer has a low-point drain. No need for antifreeze to your water supply at all if you follow the instructions. You will need to add a bit to flush the water out of the sink and shower drains. Just make certain the water heater is by-passed and drained, and the water and waste tanks are drained too.
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Old 09-23-2013, 04:56 PM   #8
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The reason I asked is because we have dedicated the rear dinette as a full time bed with a full time mattress. Accessing the hot water by-pass is a hassle as it involves removing the mattress only to do it all again in the spring. I drained all tanks (hot water, black water, grey water and fresh). Now I want to dump 38Ltrs of RV plumbing antifreeze into the fresh water tank, turn on the pump and run each tap and toilet until pink comes out.
Is this going to work?

Is that 38 litres or 3.8 litres? 3.8 litres = 1 Gal (US)
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Old 09-23-2013, 04:57 PM   #9
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I'm trying to avoid lifting and removing the permanent mattress to get at the bypass valve.
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Old 09-23-2013, 04:57 PM   #10
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Okay. But why wouldn't it work?
My question would be, is why would you want to do it that way? Why would you not want to do as per manufacturers instructions?
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Old 09-23-2013, 05:00 PM   #11
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I'm trying to avoid lifting and removing the permanent mattress to get at the bypass valve.
If it is too much of a struggle, could you not get a helping hand? Too bad you were not close here, I would be glad to help.

Besides, I can't imagine trying to get the residue of the antifreeze out of the water heater.
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Old 09-23-2013, 05:03 PM   #12
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once you have antifreeze in your fresh tank and your water heater, it is very hard to rinse and eliminate the effects the following spring. You should perhaps cut an access hatch under the dinette full time bed to gain access to the water heater bypass valves. In addition the water pump is there and you should install an ez winterizing kit and you will only need about one gallon to winterize, all this from your access hatch. here is link to kit
Camco 36543 RV Pump Converter Winterizing Kit : Amazon.com : Automotive
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Old 09-23-2013, 05:04 PM   #13
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Jim, If you re-read my thread, you'll read that I would like to NOT remove my PERMANENT mattress to get at the bypass valve (as it rubs against walls, window shades, and the collapsible shelf. If this method can work I would like to try it. Do you think it will work?
Im with the idea that RV antifreeze is potable.
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Old 09-23-2013, 05:06 PM   #14
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If you have the dinette open space in the middle of the permanent bed then you can cut an access hatch crawl under and yes this system works, I'm having it installed by Escape in my 21'
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Old 09-23-2013, 05:07 PM   #15
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wont the RV antifreeze rinse out with a normal spring flush?
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Old 09-23-2013, 05:08 PM   #16
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it will take a lot of water to rinse out your fresh tank and water heater......
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Old 09-23-2013, 05:17 PM   #17
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You'll also be using more than $50 worth of antifreeze (38 litres? ) and still not be sure that it got everywhere it should.
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Old 09-23-2013, 05:17 PM   #18
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I am just thinking here, but if you were to remove the drain in the water heater and leave it out while draining the water lines by through the low-point drain, why would you need to bypass the water heater at all. It really should all flow out. This would both eliminate the need for antifreeze, or getting at the bypass valves.
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Old 09-23-2013, 05:27 PM   #19
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Jim, do you mean just add a bit of RV anti freeze in the p traps? All the water is drained out of the system at this point.
The anti freeze is so cheep, I'd rather use more of it than risk tearing the mattress or blinds.
I'm okay with flushing out in the spring, I do it every year. This is the first year we've had the perm mattress.
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Old 09-23-2013, 05:28 PM   #20
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that will work Jim, and that is the way I did my 19 last year, but there is that sneaky valve in the toilet area that seems vulnerable to freezing, I kept a heater in my bath last year, but others had a surprise this spring.
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