Fridge propane pressure

[BC Rockcrawler]

We have only been members of the Escape family for a little over a year and joined when we purchased a 2005 17B. So far we have made a few upgrades and used it for about 4 camping trips. Our 1st camping trip this year was a 1 week stay at Rathtrevor Beach Provincial Park in June. Great week but the fridge seemed to not like the warm weather and had trouble cooling towards the end of the week. Yesterday, I borrowed a manometer and checked the pressure at the fridge. 9.56 wc It went to 8.93 when I put a couple of stove burners on... After tuning the regulator to obtain 11.95 on fridge alone and 11.00 on fridge with the stove on, the fridge dropped temperature way faster than before with a strong blue flame from the burner. It was well worth the effort.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by BC Rockcrawler

Great week but the fridge seemed to not like the warm weather and had trouble cooling towards the end of the week. Yesterday, I borrowed a manometer and checked the pressure at the fridge. 9.56 wc It went to 8.93 when I put a couple of stove burners on... After tuning the regulator to obtain 11.95 on fridge alone and 11.00 on fridge with the stove on, the fridge dropped temperature way faster than before with a strong blue flame from the burner. It was well worth the effort.

Many of us have found that low propane pressure was a culprit with insufficient refrigerator cooling. You landed in a perfect spot. System pressure will be about 12" w.c. with no load. This maintains a minimum of 11" w.c. at the refrigerator with ~50% of trailer BTU's in use. I have provided some figures in the attached thread to help users evaluate what 50% load is. It should get someone in the ballpark. This is yet another reminder that you should check your propane pressure!

http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f9...tml#post260752

[BC Rockcrawler]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Many of us have found that low propane pressure was a culprit with insufficient refrigerator cooling. You landed in a perfect spot. System pressure will be about 12" w.c. with no load. This maintains a minimum of 11" w.c. at the refrigerator with ~50% of trailer BTU's in use. I have provided some figures in the attached thread to help users evaluate what 50% load is. It should get someone in the ballpark. This is yet another reminder that you should check your propane pressure!

http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f9...tml#post260752

I believe that was the thread I read that made me think I should check it. The camping trip just gave me the push I needed to do the job. I have learned so much from this forum and I just wanted to share my experience. Thanks rubicon327.

[sclifrickson]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Many of us have found that low propane pressure was a culprit with insufficient refrigerator cooling. You landed in a perfect spot. System pressure will be about 12" w.c. with no load. This maintains a minimum of 11" w.c. at the refrigerator with ~50% of trailer BTU's in use. I have provided some figures in the attached thread to help users evaluate what 50% load is. It should get someone in the ballpark. This is yet another reminder that you should check your propane pressure!

http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f9...tml#post260752

Just doing a thought experiment here...I know what the recommended pressures are, but what would be the downside of running the regulator at, say, one inch wc above spec? Could such a minor increase cause appliances to run improperly somehow? Danger of blowing out seals somewhere?

On a related line of thought, I wonder what that 1” additional pressure would equate to if converted to an altitude change?

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by sclifrickson

Just doing a thought experiment here...I know what the recommended pressures are, but what would be the downside of running the regulator at, say, one inch wc above spec? Could such a minor increase cause appliances to run improperly somehow? Danger of blowing out seals somewhere?

Eric: RV propane appliances are typically rated for 10-14" inches w.c.. For example the Atwood manual for the older 8012 furnace says this "The entire piping system must be maintained within a range of 10-14" W.C. with all appliances in operation." Furthermore the Dometic RM2510 service manual for our refrigerator specifically says this: "The LP gas pressure to the refrigerator should be 11 inches water column with half of all BTU’s of the RV turned on. With all other appliances turned off, the pressure to the refrigerator should not exceed 12 inches water column."

11" is just a target number to aim for so that you have some headroom before regulator lock up which in a properly operating regulator should be 1" w.c. higher than the setting. Since my propane pressure setting is 12" w.c. with no load then my lockup pressure should be 13" w.c. Still within the proper range. There has to be an acceptable range as there will always be some variation. On the other hand one user reported he had 15" w.c. and several of us told him it should be lowered.

This is a good tech article.
http://www.rvdoctor.com/2002/01/what-pros-do-propane-system.html

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by sclifrickson

Just doing a thought experiment here...I know what the recommended pressures are, but what would be the downside of running the regulator at, say, one inch wc above spec? Could such a minor increase cause appliances to run improperly somehow? Danger of blowing out seals somewhere?

Scott: RV propane appliances are typically rated for 10-14" inches w.c.. For example the Atwood manual for the older 8012 furnace says this "The entire piping system must be maintained within a range of 10-14" W.C. with all appliances in operation." Furthermore the Dometic RM2510 service manual for our refrigerator specifically says this: "The LP gas pressure to the refrigerator should be 11 inches water column with half of all BTU’s of the RV turned on. With all other appliances turned off, the pressure to the refrigerator should not exceed 12 inches water column."

11" is just a target number to aim for so that you have some headroom before regulator lock up which in a properly operating regulator should be 1" w.c. higher than the setting. Since my propane pressure setting is 12" w.c. with no load then my lockup pressure should be 13" w.c. Still within the proper range. There has to be an acceptable range as there will always be some variation. On the other hand one user reported he had 15" w.c. and several of us told him it should be lowered.

This is a good tech article.
http://www.rvdoctor.com/2002/01/what-pros-do-propane-system.html

[sclifrickson]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Scott: RV propane appliances are typically rated for 10-14" inches w.c.. For example the Atwood manual for the older 8012 furnace says this "The entire piping system must be maintained within a range of 10-14" W.C. with all appliances in operation." Furthermore the Dometic RM2510 service manual for our refrigerator specifically says this: "The LP gas pressure to the refrigerator should be 11 inches water column with half of all BTU’s of the RV turned on. With all other appliances turned off, the pressure to the refrigerator should not exceed 12 inches water column."

11" is just a target number to aim for so that you have some headroom before regulator lock up which in a properly operating regulator should be 1" w.c. higher than the setting. Since my propane pressure setting is 12" w.c. with no load then my lockup pressure should be 13" w.c. Still within the proper range. There has to be an acceptable range as there will always be some variation. On the other hand one user reported he had 15" w.c. and several of us told him it should be lowered.

This is a good tech article.
http://www.rvdoctor.com/2002/01/what-pros-do-propane-system.html

That is a great article. I will now go recheck my rig’s pressure, with new perspective!

[Greg A]

Thanks again to Dave who went around at the Quartzsite gathering last year with his manometer and helped many set the fridge pressure including myself. The cooling increased significantly after his stop and is still doing great. In hindsight, I think many of the classic fridge issues would have been resolved by replacing with a better regulator and adjusting the pressure at the fridge to the correct setting.
I had the factory regulator replaced right after pickup under warranty with a much better regulator and have never had problems with my fridge. Keeping an annual check with the manometer and cleaning the orifice should keep the fridges operating well.

[Toddybegood]

Hello.

2006 escape 17b
Replaced old hoses from dual 20lb tanks to regulator this year (Dated 2005.) Should I also replace the regulator? Fridge having issue staying lit. I hear the piezo click in throughout the day. Would a new regulator up my fridge propane pressure or would I need to set it up with a manometer (which I dont have). Fridge works better with full tanks which would have more pressure.

Todd
Currently at miracle beach

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by Toddybegood

Hello.

2006 escape 17b
Replaced old hoses from dual 20lb tanks to regulator this year (Dated 2005.) Should I also replace the regulator? Fridge having issue staying lit. I hear the piezo click in throughout the day. Would a new regulator up my fridge propane pressure or would I need to set it up with a manometer (which I dont have). Fridge works better with full tanks which would have more pressure.

a water manometer is quite simple, its just a "U" shaped loop of clear vinyl hose attached to a vertical board with some colored water in it. and a gas adapter on one side. the nominal pressure of the system is 11" of water column, eg, under correct pressure, the high side of the manometer loop should be 11" higher than the low side.

you can find many blogs and youtubes on how to do this.

[davidmurphy02]

If the burner is having trouble staying lit you might try cleaning the orifice...usually easily removed, soak in alcohol to remove carbon buildup.

[Viajante]

Originally Posted by Toddybegood

Hello.

2006 escape 17b
Replaced old hoses from dual 20lb tanks to regulator this year (Dated 2005.) Should I also replace the regulator? Fridge having issue staying lit. I hear the piezo click in throughout the day. Would a new regulator up my fridge propane pressure or would I need to set it up with a manometer (which I dont have). Fridge works better with full tanks which would have more pressure.

Todd
Currently at miracle beach

Depending on what model you have, the piezo igniter will click periodically through the day as it relights the burner to start the cooling cycle. When the fridge reaches the target temp the burner shuts off until the temp rises, then it starts again. This is in lieu of a pilot light. If your fridge is holding the temp you want, then it likely is operating ok. I have an RM2354 and it turns the burner on and off as necessary to keep the temp I want. If your fridge has a pilot light that isn’t staying lit then doing a pressure check is a good first step in troubleshooting.

[David H]

The Dometic 4 cf fridge, model RM 8551 is designed to operate in a range of 30 to 37 mbar, 30 mbar is 11.3 inches of water column (2.66 conversion). The orfice is sized for this range. anything lower as measured at the fridge test point will result in less than acceptable performance.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Toddybegood

Hello.

2006 escape 17b
Replaced old hoses from dual 20lb tanks to regulator this year (Dated 2005.) Should I also replace the regulator? Fridge having issue staying lit. I hear the piezo click in throughout the day. Would a new regulator up my fridge propane pressure or would I need to set it up with a manometer (which I dont have). Fridge works better with full tanks which would have more pressure.

Todd: Not sure of your model but I have done a lot with our Dometic RM2510 and it now performs admirably even in the hottest of weather. One of the biggest things besides better insulation all around was replacing the propane regulator AND confirming proper pressure at the fridge test port. Your regulator is on borrowed time. Sounds like you could benefit from a replacement. You do not want to drop below 11” w.c. with 50% propane demand. I have found that this means you want 12” w.c. +/- with no load. Personally I would buy a digital manometer before making one but to each their own. As for regulators I bought the Marshall Excelsior MEGR-253 in 2018 and it is working well. Many Escape owners have purchased the same and I haven’t seen any issues reported. FYI you do not need the high capacity model.
https://www.amazon.com/Marshall-Exce.../dp/B00KPR9Q30

[Toddybegood]

Dometic Model# RM-2354.

I will replace the regulator with suggested model.
Next step will be checking the pressure at the test port.

Todd

[Iowa Dave]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Todd: Not sure of your model but I have done a lot with our Dometic RM2510 and it now performs admirably even in the hottest of weather. One of the biggest things besides better insulation all around was replacing the propane regulator AND confirming proper pressure at the fridge test port. Your regulator is on borrowed time. Sounds like you could benefit from a replacement. You do not want to drop below 11” w.c. with 50% propane demand. I have found that this means you want 12” w.c. +/- with no load. Personally I would buy a digital manometer before making one but to each their own. As for regulators I bought the Marshall Excelsior MEGR-253 in 2018 and it is working well. Many Escape owners have purchased the same and I haven’t seen any issues reported. FYI you do not need the high capacity model.
https://www.amazon.com/Marshall-Exce.../dp/B00KPR9Q30

Very well written and a thorough and accurate guideline in my opinion. If you’re going to be at Algonac or Mississippi River Rendezvous rallies look me up. You are welcome to borrow my Manometer to check your propane pressure. Adjustment is a simple matter. Just a turn of the regulator screw with a stubby.
Iowa Dave

[cpaharley2008]

Here I thought a manometer was only used by women, .........

[Iowa Dave]

You must have gotten a little mixed up Jim. The women I know use a Stud Finder.
Iowa Dave

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Toddybegood

Dometic Model# RM-2354.
I will replace the regulator with suggested model.
Next step will be checking the pressure at the test port.

Be sure to read this thread for a tutorial on using the manometer...especially posts #21 and #61
https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...tml#post260752

Let me know if you have any questions. I can walk you through it if you have any issues.

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

You must have gotten a little mixed up Jim. The women I know use a Stud Finder.
Iowa Dave

I'm glad I do not have one of those in my tool box, now where is my tool box?