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Old 06-01-2016, 03:27 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Patandlinda View Post
Really didn't see the need for electric on the water heater .
It's not needed, but then nothing in the trailer is needed - you can just heat water on the stove. For that matter, the entire trailer itself is an unnecessary luxury, since a tent works for camping.

While the heater works effectively on propane, electrical operation can be useful, too. I've found that at low temperatures propane supply (to anything in an RV, but especially the furnace) can be problematic and it can be helpful to get hot water - or at least prevent damage by freezing - without massive surges of propane supply; the heater is comparable to the furnace in propane flow rate. Electrical operation can also be a backup in case there is a problem with the water heater's propane burner. If propane supply is getting low, using shore power instead of propane to heat water can stretch out the supply
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Old 06-01-2016, 03:34 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by rubicon327 View Post
It should be noted that as far as I can tell the optional Progressive Industries surge protection devices inside the trailer do not appear to protect from ground faults in the trailer - only surge and other source power inlet conditions.
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Originally Posted by Vermilye View Post
The Progressive Industries HW30C does protect against open grounds between it and the power pedestal; From the Website: "Open Ground Protection:
If AC power has an open ground condition, the EMS will read an error code of E-2 and power will not be allowed to the RV."

It, and any other EMS that I'm familiar with cannot detect an open ground after its location...
The open ground comments make sense, but the first remark was about ground faults (power flowing in the ground conductor), which is the opposite of an open ground (lack of continuity in the ground conductor). It doesn't look like Progressive Industries claims any ground fault protection, but that makes sense since this is normally the role of a GFCI, which is typically integrated with the over-current protection.
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Old 06-01-2016, 03:38 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
It's not needed, but then nothing in the trailer is needed - you can just heat water on the stove. For that matter, the entire trailer itself is an unnecessary luxury, since a tent works for camping.

While the heater works effectively on propane, electrical operation can be useful, too. I've found that at low temperatures propane supply (to anything in an RV, but especially the furnace) can be problematic and it can be helpful to get hot water - or at least prevent damage by freezing - without massive surges of propane supply; the heater is comparable to the furnace in propane flow rate. Electrical operation can also be a backup in case there is a problem with the water heater's propane burner. If propane supply is getting low, using shore power instead of propane to heat water can stretch out the supply
Still think that money could be used elsewhere . Never in all my years had problems with propane . For heat it is always prudent to carry a little heater if you have hookups in stead of ,or a backup . The potential for damaging your water heater , electrical on , no water , is just not worth it . Pat
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Old 06-01-2016, 03:51 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Patandlinda View Post
Still think that money could be used elsewhere . Never in all my years had problems with propane . For heat it is always prudent to carry a little heater if you have hookups in stead of ,or a backup . The potential for damaging your water heater , electrical on , no water , is just not worth it . Pat
Yeppers, you could get 2 or 3 nice bottles of Scotch for the difference.

Carrying a little electric heater (which I do too) for backup is very much akin to having electric on the water heater for the same reason. It too is much quieter than the propane option, and saves using up your propane too.

You will not damage the water heater, just burn out the easily replaceable and cheap element. After doing that, I added the convenient lit switch inside to eliminate this problem.

Our stick-built does not have the electric option, and we really missed it this past weekend in Osoyoos.

It is listed as an option, as it definitely is not for everyone. Like most options, it is not necessary, but certainly is nice when you can make use of it.
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Old 06-01-2016, 03:57 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Patandlinda View Post
Still think that money could be used elsewhere . Never in all my years had problems with propane . For heat it is always prudent to carry a little heater if you have hookups in stead of ,or a backup . The potential for damaging your water heater , electrical on , no water , is just not worth it . Pat
I agree that every option choice is a cost-benefit judgement.

Different people, in different locations, have different needs and concerns. I remember an interesting comment in a discussion of features that are standard but might be deleted for a credit because they were not valued: An Escape from B.C. comes with a furnace standard but air conditioning optional, while a Casita from Texas comes with air conditioning standard but a furnace optional. I live in Alberta, and the house furnace came on last night - yes, it's June. Near-freezing temperatures and resulting potential propane issues can occur at night for most of the year here, even when the days are gloriously warm and long.

Reports of damaging a heater with an electric element are rare, so I don't think it's a huge risk. A switch with an indicator (light) in the interior would certainly help reduce this risk, and I think it's bizarre that both major brands of RV water heater are routinely installed without them (by all RV manufacturers).

What happens to the water heater if it is run on propane with no water?
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Old 06-01-2016, 06:43 PM   #26
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What happens to the water heater if it is run on propane with no water?
My buddy did that. I just pressed the reset button, one of those black rubber buttons on the heater.
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Old 06-02-2016, 11:16 AM   #27
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I'm always fascinated by the discussions that spawn from a given topic. I like the flexibility of the dual mode water heater, but I agree it may not be for everyone. The key take away I was aiming for was making owners aware of the potential electrical issues (and danger when not properly grounded) that can occur with a failed electric element. Please understand that we believe the trailer was purchased with this issue so we were starting from scratch trying to understand how the system is supposed to operate and troubleshooting the problems that the trailer was exhibiting, including my father being shocked on the stabilizer. Obviously being educated on how the system works is the best line of defense so problems can be avoided altogether. I have included a picture of the outside switch location since the exploded view I attached previously may not be the most conducive to understanding. Apologies to the veterans here that know their systems inside and out, but I'll reiterate that this switch, or breaker at power center must be OFF when the hot water tank is drained to avoid burning out the electric element.
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Old 06-02-2016, 02:22 PM   #28
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What happens to the water heater if it is run on propane with no water?
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Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
My buddy did that. I just pressed the reset button, one of those black rubber buttons on the heater.
Good to know
It's interesting that the water heater manufacturer designed the appliance to shut down the propane burner before doing damage, but not the electric element.
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Old 06-02-2016, 03:01 PM   #29
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My build sheet with 2-way Hot Water Tank say's below it...LED Indicator Switch for HW Tank. That is only for the propane?
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Old 06-02-2016, 03:11 PM   #30
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My build sheet with 2-way Hot Water Tank say's below it...LED Indicator Switch for HW Tank. That is only for the propane?
Yes, only for propane. You go outside to move rocker switch for electric. Escape will not install a switch inside for electric but never found out if that is due to code or what.
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