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Old 09-29-2013, 11:53 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
factory by pass is installed by Escape, but you may want to ask reace to install the E-Z winterizing valve that lets your pump suck in your antifreeze conveniently.
Thanks for the info Jim.

Already have your "T" valve and hose on my build sheet! 8)
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Old 09-29-2013, 05:45 PM   #22
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...once you get started there are a lot of options available...
That's a good thought, though I may put off the work until after winterizing. The forecast looks good right now, but we're at the point of the year where we could get a solid freeze any time and I don't want to get caught with water in the pipes.

(spent the afternoon rigging up a hoist so I can lift my kayaks into the ceiling of my garage, and all the up-and-down on the ladder has me thinking I'm not ready to tackle a job that will have me spending lots of time crouched down or on my knees...)
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Old 09-29-2013, 06:30 PM   #23
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If you're winterized, then your trailer's water system is ready to dry camp. Bring in your own water supply (beer etc.) get a good fire going, turn on the furnace, play some music and enjoy your self.
If your rig is seasoned for your driveway or storage yard it should be seasoned good enough for a camp site.
Those pit toilets can get a bit breezy tho!
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Old 09-30-2013, 06:56 PM   #24
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I personally think it's a good idea to replace your anode and flush your hot water heater annually. After 14 months, mine was probably at the 25-30% stage above, but the amount of crud on the bottom of the tank was pretty substantial. Some of it had already reached the galley faucet and diminished the flow by clogging the faucet filter. Much will depend on the condition of the water you use, but at $12 to buy a new anode, for me it's good preventive maintenance.
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Old 09-30-2013, 07:07 PM   #25
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I believe it depends on the water in your area. My trailer is a 2008 and has the original anode. From the look of it last year, I don't expect to have to change it yet.
What does your flushing procedure entail?
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Old 09-30-2013, 08:05 PM   #26
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I use a wand with a curved end intended for that purpose. Bought it when I had a pop-up, and I believe Escape gave me another as part of the starter kit. Basically, you run water into the tank through the anode port until the chunks stop flowing out. The chunks are the pieces of the anode that have corroded off. My chemistry is too old to hazard a guess about their composition, though!
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Old 09-30-2013, 08:13 PM   #27
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Here is one Camco 11691 RV Water Heater Tank Rinser : Amazon.com : Automotive
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Old 09-30-2013, 09:10 PM   #28
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While we are on the subject of hot water maintenance, you may want to replace your cheapo/plastic Suburban hot water heater door latch with a metal one. I had one fail on our last trailer while in the Smokey Mountains. They are inexpensive and easily to find at most RV suppliers.
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Old 10-01-2013, 12:20 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
factory by pass is installed by Escape, but you may want to ask reace to install the E-Z winterizing valve that lets your pump suck in your antifreeze conveniently.
I am curious as to why you would want to do this, as it really is redundant and not needed if you use the low point drain.

Just yesterday I winterized the 17' Bigfoot we bought my mom this year, and realized how great it is with my Escape to not have to go to the trouble of pumping the pink antifreeze through the lines. The low point drain is a much better, and easier, way of doing things.
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Old 10-01-2013, 02:52 PM   #30
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Jim,
It is like having a belt and also a pair of suspenders, back up sometimes comes in handy!!
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