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Old 10-01-2013, 07:03 PM   #31
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There's more to it than just a back up, at least for recent builds. Quoting an email from Tammy received a few weeks ago:

"We have updated the winterizing process for your Escape Travel Trailer due to a change in the toilet valve. As we are unsure of when this valve was changed by Thetford we are recommending all of our customer use the method shown in the attached document regardless of the year of your trailer.

Unfortunately, winterizing via the low point drain is no longer effective.

Please follow one of the methods shown in the attached instructions."

I guess if your trailer was built well before the change in question you can go ahead with using the low point drain. But I'll be using the anti-freeze method this year. (Actually, I plan to try a mix of low point drain followed by anti-freeze.)
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Old 10-01-2013, 08:32 PM   #32
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I don't like the sound of that, but you do have to do what is necessary. I wonder what it is about the new valve. Maybe some anti-siphoning added to it? Otherwise, the very simple low point drain is the cat's meow.
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Old 10-01-2013, 08:38 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbailey View Post

Unfortunately, winterizing via the low point drain is no longer effective.
That's odd. The instructions on the website and the instructions in the book Tammy gave me when picking up our 2013 5.0 in late August include the procedure for the low point drain method and specifically mention opening the toilet valve first.

We're not in deep freeze country so I'm thinking I'll just go ahead and use the low point drain method. I hate anti-freeze almost as much as I hate air conditioners

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Old 10-01-2013, 11:16 PM   #34
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I've noticed in the past that Escape isn't very good about having up-to-date information on their website. The email arrived August 27th, so it's possible that your book was printed before the change in procedure.

I assume others also received this email. I'd be curious to know who received it and who didn't (and why).

And to correct what I said earlier: the email was signed by Reace, not Tammy.
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Old 10-02-2013, 08:12 AM   #35
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I can't place my finger on the new instructions, anyone have a link, please?
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Old 10-02-2013, 09:18 AM   #36
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It's a .docx file, which the system won't let me attach to a post. Any suggestions on how/where I could place it for public consumption?
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Old 10-02-2013, 09:22 AM   #37
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This was posted on a previous thread (Winterizing Re Tammy's Email), but here it is again from the email I received from Reace on Tue 27/08/2013:

WATER SYSTEM WINTERIZATION

When storing your recreational vehicle through periods of freezing weather, in an unheated environment, it will be necessary to winterize the water system. Damage to water system components will result if the proper winterization steps are not taken.

NOTE: Before using the compressed air method, you will need a special adapter known as a blowout plug. This plug allows compressed air to be delivered through the city water fill. This small, inexpensive adapter is available at most RV supply stores.

WINTERIZING WITH COMPRESSED AIR

Purchase 2 gallons of RV non-toxic antifreeze.

1.) Drain the fresh water tank and empty the waste water holding tanks.
2.) Turn the water heater bypass valve to the ‘bypass’ position. (This valve is located near the water heater incoming lines at the rear of the water heater.)
3.) Drain the water heater.
4.) Open all faucets, including shower head sprayer, (if applicable), toilet flushing device and any other water lines that are closed.
5.) Turn on the water pump for at least 30 seconds to clear any water from the lines.
7.) Connect an air hose with an adapter (blow out plug) to the city water fill connection.
8.) Set the pressure to no greater than 30# (pounds) and blow out the water lines until no water can be seen coming out of the fixtures and lines.
9.) Pour antifreeze down sink and shower drains to fill p-traps.

NOTE: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO START THE WATER HEATER OR USE THE PLUMBING SYSTEM AFTER THE SYSTEM HAS BEEN WINTERIZED. DEWINTERIZE, FLUSH AND SANITIZE THE WATER SYSTEM PRIOR TO USE.

WINTERIZING WITH ANTIFREEZE ONLY

WARNING: NEVER USE AUTOMOTIVE ANITFREEZE IN YOUR FRESH WATER SYSTEM. AUTOMOTIVE ANITFREEZE IS TOXIC AND NOT FOR USE IN POTABLE (DRINKABLE) WATER SYSTEMS.
Purchase 4-6 gallons of RV approved, non-toxic antifreeze.

1.) Drain the fresh water tank and empty the waste water holding tanks.
2.) Turn water heater bypass valve to ‘bypass’ position.
3.) Drain water heater.
4.) Fill the tank above minimum water pump operation level with the RV antifreeze. (Use of a long funnel may be helpful.)
5.) Turn the pump switch ‘ON’ and open the cold water side of all faucet fixtures. Leave the faucets open until the antifreeze, (generally pink in color), flows out of the faucets. Repeat for the hot water side.
6.) Flush toilet until antifreeze is visible inside the bowl and pour one gallon of antifreeze down the toilet to winterize the black holding tank.
7.) Pour antifreeze down sink and shower drains to fill p-traps.

DEWINTERIZING YOUR RV

NOTE: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO TURN ON THE WATER HEATER OR USE THE PLUMBING SYSTEM ONCE THE SYSTEM HAS BEEN WINTERIZED. DEWINTERIZE THE WATER SYSTEM, FLUSH AND SANITIZE PRIOR TO USE.

1.) Drain all holding tanks, (fresh water and sewage).
2.) Attach garden hose to fresh water fill and fill tank.
3.) Turn ‘ON’ pump switch and open cold water side of all faucet/shower fixtures. Leave open until the water runs clear, (no pink residue). Repeat for the hot water side.
4.) Flush toilet until clear water runs into bowl.
5.) Dump tanks again.
6.) Sanitize the water system.
7.) If a water filter has been installed, drain the lines, remove the assembly, clean and reinstall using a new filter.
8.) When ready to use the water heater, turn by-pass valve to open position to allow water to enter and fill the hot water heater tank.
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Old 10-02-2013, 09:39 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbailey View Post
There's more to it than just a back up, at least for recent builds. Quoting an email from Tammy received a few weeks ago:

"We have updated the winterizing process for your Escape Travel Trailer due to a change in the toilet valve. As we are unsure of when this valve was changed by Thetford we are recommending all of our customer use the method shown in the attached document regardless of the year of your trailer.

Unfortunately, winterizing via the low point drain is no longer effective.

Please follow one of the methods shown in the attached instructions."

I guess if your trailer was built well before the change in question you can go ahead with using the low point drain. But I'll be using the anti-freeze method this year. (Actually, I plan to try a mix of low point drain followed by anti-freeze.)
Why could you not winterize via the low point drain as before, but install one of these bypass valves in the water line that feeds the toilet.

You could then connect the antifreeze bottle to the valve with a piece of flexible tubing and feed antifreeze directly into the toilet valve via gravity. I think that others have installed a shutoff valve behind the toilet (see pic below from this thread: Toilet Leak), so this bypass valve should be quite doable.

Thus there should be no need to get antifreeze in any freshwater lines other than the short section from the above valve to the toilet.
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Old 10-02-2013, 10:01 AM   #39
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Here is a video of an e-z-winterizing set up (non-Escape) but the principles are the same. Once he activates the pump, look at the amount of water still in the pipes that is being discharged, even after the low point drain was used. In addition, when you do it this way, the pink stuff flows into your drains and you take care of that issue simultaneously.
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Old 10-02-2013, 10:10 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
Here is a video of an e-z-winterizing set up (non-Escape) but the principles are the same. Once he activates the pump, look at the amount of water still in the pipes that is being discharged, even after the low point drain was used. In addition, when you do it this way, the pink stuff flows into your drains and you take care of that issue simultaneously.
After I used the low point drain and the air pressure blowout of the lines, I am confident that there was no water left at all in the lines (very different from the above video). Only thing I am now concerned about is as noted in Reace's email whether there was any water remaining in the toilet valve, thus my suggested approach in the above post.
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