Hot Water Heater Anode Question... - Page 7 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 10-06-2013, 12:39 AM   #61
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This is my rutine, for pre storage.
(1) drain and flush the black and gray tanks.
(2) drain the fresh water tank.
(3) remove the anode and drain the the hot water tank ( leave the anode out).
(4) close bypass valves for hot water tank (2) off them.
(5) pour 20L of Rv anti freeze into fress water tank.
(6) turn on pump and flush toilet untill pink runs.
(7) turn on bath sink hot and cold taps till pink comes - turn on bath shower filling up shower drain with the pink.
(8) turn on the kitchen sink taps hot then cold till the pink runs full strength. if you got a outside shower do like wise.
Thats it.
We also remove all food and linins, open all storage doors about a inch. Crack the fridge door open to prevent mold. Stack all cushions in the center of the bed away from the walls, close all windows and vents. except the max fan which is open a inch for some air movement. Propane and power all of, batteries with a full charge. Then into storage for 6 months.
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Old 10-06-2013, 12:46 AM   #62
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Ah, but you are using 18L more anti-freeze than you need to.
Bypass the water heater and use hand pump to push anti-freeze through the city water inlet ( less than a litre required ). You will see pink from all the taps and toilet as you open them in turn.
This is not a full description of the winterizing process. I'm just pointing out that you don't need that much anti-freeze.
Posting pic of the hand pump again:
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File Type: jpg Hand pump.jpg (170.4 KB, 8 views)
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Old 10-06-2013, 01:07 AM   #63
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I suppose you could recover most of that anti-freeze by opening the fresh water tank valve and refilling the containers after pumping it through the lines.
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Old 10-06-2013, 01:22 AM   #64
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You have a valid point, I tend to use a lot of antifreeze. I do recover about 2/3s back, the rest goes onto the black and gray tank.
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Old 10-06-2013, 08:23 AM   #65
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Hi: All... This year as always, I opened all taps and both shower heads as well as the flush valve and low point drain. Then blow down with my air pig till no water flows out of the low point. Empty the black& grey tanks and flush till the monitor reads empty. Empty the water heater and flush with my garden hose pistol several times. Clean the anode rod with a nylon scrubbie pad and re teflon tape it on installing it. Run the pump for a few seconds then disconnect the line from it. I'll add the antifreeze to the drains only.
The difference this year is the trailer will stay at home plugged in with our small heater on low thermostat, and I'll add a 1/2 gallon of vodka and 1/2 gallon of rye when we get it down to Florida!!! Then I'll have to summerize all over again. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
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Old 10-06-2013, 09:48 AM   #66
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Where did you get that hand pump and city water hose adapter gbaglo?
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Old 10-06-2013, 10:07 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minnie View Post
Yes, you have to open the taps and toilet valve (and outside shower) or nothing comes out the low point drain. Fran, we only did the low point drain on the 2008 and followed the procedure you did with anti freeze.
We had sub zero temps with no effect.
Christine
Great! Yes, we did have the taps open so it sounds like we are good to go. Thanks!! Sounds like you are having a great time with your new 5.0!!

We are headed to the International Balloon Fiesta in Albuquerque with the trailer this coming weekend - just won't use the water system.
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Old 10-06-2013, 11:59 AM   #68
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Quote:
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Where did you get that hand pump and city water hose adapter gbaglo?
Sorry, I don't remember.
Worse, I haven't a clue.
It's basically a bilge pump, so you might try a marine store.
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Old 11-08-2014, 01:48 PM   #69
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Okay, I've search, read this entire topic and downloaded the manual from the doc center... nada. What size wrench is needed to pull the anode? I don't care to haul the entire toolbox to the storage yard
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Old 11-08-2014, 01:52 PM   #70
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1 1/16 ( one and one sixteenth inch ).
And have a pocket full of quarters ( I use loonies or toonies ) to partially fill the socket so you can apply pressure when re-installing.
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