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Old 06-21-2013, 01:01 PM   #11
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Last fall I purchased a TV that runs off of AC or DC. Seems to work quite well just plugged into the 12V outlet in my 19'. Details were provided in this thread: (19 in RCA LCD TV with DVD on sale London Drugs
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Old 06-21-2013, 01:32 PM   #12
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Another word of caution. Many of today's electronics are sensitive to the type of input. Using an inverter that doesn't have a pure sine wave output can be dangerous. In the past, the components used were less sensitive to this sort of thing and one could use an almost square wave device and get away with it. Nowadays, you just can't tell so it's best to err on the side of caution. Things like brute force battery chargers will likely not have a problem but I would be very careful with TV's, laptops etc. Most inverters will say on the label if they are pure sine wave or not. Just some info to be on the safe side.

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Old 06-22-2013, 10:55 AM   #13
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If you are planning to use the standard sockets built into the Escape trailers, you should do your best to keep the input current to the inverter under 10 amps. Most small multimeters will measure up to 10 amps, so you could use one to check, or better yet, a clamp on meter that is capable of measuring DC.

You can draw a bit more if you wire a standard socket with heavier wire & short distances, however I wouldn't try to draw more than 15 amps from the socket. That works out to a bit more than a 150 watt load.
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Old 06-22-2013, 11:35 AM   #14
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If a trailer had a 1500w inverter installed, why wouldn't it be an advantage to have every electrical socket wired to it?
When hooked up to shore power the battery bank would get topped up allowing all electrical outlets able to provide 110w inverter power.
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Old 06-22-2013, 11:51 AM   #15
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Jon, I'll only use the DC plug for a television that draws up to 3 amps or maybe a DC table radio. I think I'll be OK.

Doug, The television I'll be plugging into my cheap 150 watt inverter has an AC/DC converter/power supply. Is a sine wave inverter needed? I thought sine wave inverters were critical for appliances with motors such as fans, but not so critical for current converted to DC. Am I correct?

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Old 06-22-2013, 12:34 PM   #16
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Quote:
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If a trailer had a 1500w inverter installed, why wouldn't it be an advantage to have every electrical socket wired to it?
When hooked up to shore power the battery bank would get topped up allowing all electrical outlets able to provide 110w inverter power.
J Mac, if a 1500 watt inverter is permanently installed then it is beneficial to use a manual transfer switch that will switch the electrical supply for the trailer from 120 volt AC shore power to 120 volt AC inverter power when desired. This ties the inverter to all of the electrical outlets in the trailer when switched over. Of course the transfer switch also disconnect large-draw appliances from the panel like the AC and also disconnects the converter battery charger. There is no advantage to using the inverter at all for any reason when on shore power. Mine is set up like that and it is very quick and easy for me to switch over to inverter power which I do frequently when boon-docking. I don't leave it on full time because there is a residual power draw that is undesirable.

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Old 06-22-2013, 12:40 PM   #17
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Thanks Steve but what I'm trying to figure out is why, if you have an inverter tied to all electrical outlets (120v AC inverter power) would you want to disconnect the inverter and just run on shore power (120v AC shore power)?
Of course one would want the option to turn off the inverter when not needed (out for a hike etc).
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Old 06-22-2013, 01:13 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by J Mac View Post
Thanks Steve but what I'm trying to figure out is why, if you have an inverter tied to all electrical outlets (120v AC inverter power) would you want to disconnect the inverter and just run on shore power (120v AC shore power)?
Of course one would want the option to turn off the inverter when not needed (out for a hike etc).
Inverters used in consumer applications are basically inefficient, a lot of power is lost to heat, they put a lot of strain on the batteries they are connected to and a 1500 watt unit will not provide nearly as much power as shore power will. You will basically be limiting yourself to a maximum of 1050 watts of available power (70%) at the outlets. You will also not be able to run the AC off the inverter. Additionally, the amp draw on the batteries while at maximum power is significant and much higher amperage than the shore power converter-charger is able to put out so your batteries will be losing charge. It is possible to do but will take a lot of battery capacity, a big and expensive inverter with good cooling and venting, and a very big on-board converter-charger to charge the batteries from shore power. This would be very expensive and inefficient.

I personally have 4 6-volt batteries, a 2500 watt inverter built in , 2 solar panels (190 watts), an upgraded solar charger, an upgraded converter battery charger and I only turn my inverter on when needed and only when disconnected from shore power.
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Old 06-22-2013, 01:52 PM   #19
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As Steve explained, running off shore power is preferred if it is available. The other connection option is to wire each AC outlet with one plug connected to the inverter output, and the other plug connected to shore power. That means plugging appliances in to the other side of the outlet when switching to shore power. This is the setup if you order a built-in inverter as an option on a new Escape. Steve's switch avoids changing plugs, but a few more switch settings to coordinate.
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Old 06-23-2013, 04:36 PM   #20
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Here is another alternative to switch between shore power and inverter power (automaticaly).
Transfer Switches | GPElectric
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