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Old 11-01-2014, 09:42 PM   #81
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Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
Understood Charlie... I've overnighted at Mt. Hood in the parking lot in a moho (before Mt. Hood Meadows existed).. back in the 1960s.

I think folks are asking about "storage," not using during freezing temps where leaving cabinet doors open and the furance on works. But I've known to be wrong...
Ah, my misunderstanding. oops.
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Old 11-01-2014, 10:38 PM   #82
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The low point drain 'decision' as it relates to winterizing makes no sense to me.

You need to 'winterize' once (?) a year depending on where you are. And the low point drain will make it simpler and quicker.

But for the rest of the year ....

At any time a leak can come from a fitting, valve, pump, or whatever. With a low point drain you can quickly drain most of the water out of the lines.

So now imagine ... using compressed air to move 'most of the water' out of the ... whoops ... if you have compressed air the leak sprays more water into our fiberglass 'tubs'. Or you can just wait until all the water drips into the trailer?

Mel
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Old 11-02-2014, 01:45 AM   #83
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If you are connected to city water and a leak appears somewhere, the first thing you would do is shut off the city water.
If you then opened a low point drain, you would, at best, drain maybe a gallon ( in the 17B with exterior shower option ).
If you were drawing from the fresh water tank, you would shut off the pump.

There isn't a heck of a lot of water in the lines.
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Old 11-02-2014, 06:03 AM   #84
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My last trailer had 2 low point drains, both a hot and cold. The hot would drain most of the HW heater along with the lines. I was pretty surprised the Escape has none. I used them whenever the trailer was to sit for a while or needed sterilizing.
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Old 11-02-2014, 12:16 PM   #85
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If you are connected to city water and a leak appears somewhere, the first thing you would do is shut off the city water.
If you then opened a low point drain, you would, at best, drain maybe a gallon ( in the 17B with exterior shower option ).
If you were drawing from the fresh water tank, you would shut off the pump.

There isn't a heck of a lot of water in the lines.
In the middle of the night I heard drip,drip,drip in our brand new 19'. I turned the hot water and pump off and released pressure into the sink. The drip stopped and I went back to sleep. It was from the pressure relief valve on the hot water tank.

If it hadn't stopped I would have looked for the low point drain to quickly drain the system and hopefully stop the drip or at least minimize the water damage.

In this scenario what do you suggest as an alternative to the low point drain? Carry a compressor and blow out the lines in the middle of the night? Carry a saw and cut into the walls where I can't see the lines if i don't have a compressor?

I'll add a low point drain to my to-do list. It was short sighted to stop installing a low point drain. If anything cracks in the winter, or due to a failure, a low point drain will immediately reduce the chance of water damage to your trailer. Not to mention the long term musty odor from mold forming after you have leaked a ''not a heck of a lot of' water into an inaccessible area.

Mel
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Old 11-02-2014, 01:15 PM   #86
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Will Reace still install them as an option?
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Old 11-03-2014, 09:14 AM   #87
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Will Reace still install them as an option?
Hi: thoer... Our 5.0TA has hot and cold lines that run under the trailer from supply side to kitchen side. I'm wondering if the pex elbows could be replaced with tees and a low point drain added to the tee for both hot and cold.
I used my air pig to blow out the water lines while my wife held the toilet flush valve open. She was not amused with the impromptu shower result. I also ran the water pump for 20 sec. and then disconnected the hoses on either side of it. I only added the pink syrup to all the drains and waste tanks. I hope that's enough for the big freeze coming. Alf
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Old 11-03-2014, 10:00 AM   #88
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I hope that's enough for the big freeze coming. is this from the weather or your wife for drenching her?
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Old 11-03-2014, 10:36 AM   #89
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Alf I don't think you would really need it on the hot line, although it might come in handy. Replacing those elbow with a bypass type valve should work. One way on the valve the flow goes thru the pipe and the other way it drains. You'll need one of those crimp tools for PEX unless you could find valves with the push on compression fittings I think.

Like this maybe? PEX 3 way valve

or this: Bypass valve

If I were doing it I think I would put a short piece of pipe on the drain side that I could keep a plug in as a backup.
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Old 11-03-2014, 12:01 PM   #90
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If the water lines between your freshwater tank and outlets (sinks, toilet, shower head, etc) were installed on a gradient such that the lines all freely drain back into the freshwater tank, would the bottom outlet on your freshwater tank not have the same function as a low point drain? Or would the water pump impede this from occurring? Was this possibly Reace's reasoning in eliminating the separate low point drains from the Escape?
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