Low point drain

[azjack]

Our oct. 2013 21' has two low point drains just inside the step, I don't plan on using them.
Jack
Here it is 80* at 8:00 a.m. today.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by J Mac

Jim, so does this mean that you don't add RV Antifreeze to your lines after you drain them with the low point drain?

Nope, after draining the water heater and fresh water tank, I open the low-point drain, and then all the valves in the trailer, and don't forget to hold the toilet valve open for a bit too. I also turn the water pump on for a few seconds too, to ensure it is drained. The only anti-freeze used gets poured into the sink and shower traps.

I too remember something to do with the toilet valve now used, in the reason that Escape no longer does the low-point drain. I will have to ask Reace the next time I see him.

[BRietkerk]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

Nope, after draining the water heater and fresh water tank, I open the low-point drain, and then all the valves in the trailer, and don't forget to hold the toilet valve open for a bit too. I also turn the water pump on for a few seconds too, to ensure it is drained. The only anti-freeze used gets poured into the sink and shower traps.

I too remember something to do with the toilet valve now used, in the reason that Escape no longer does the low-point drain. I will have to ask Reace the next time I see him.

I do the same with one further step. I pressurize the system with a bicycle pump and then open the toilet valve to blow out the little bit of water that gets trapped in it.

[GerriJ]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

Yeah, I really like my low-point drain. So simple to use, and very effective. I tried blowing my lines afterwards, the first time I used it, but got no more than a bit of a spit out. I much prefer it, or blowing out the lines, to pumping RV antifreeze through the lines.

I'm with you Jim. I used RV anti freeze in my lines on my first camper 30 odd years ago. I bet the taste of that RV anti freeze is still in the lines. I was pumping pink foam for days. That little bit of spit you blow out is worth it. It was probably in the toilet valve. A freind of mine with a 5.0 froze his toilet. I think after that is when the procedures were changed.

[GerriJ]

Originally Posted by SpokanEscape

So now I am in a panic - the directions for our 21 said we could use compressed air OR antifreeze. We put antifreeze in the water tank and ran the pump to run it through all the faucets and toilet. Are we going to have problems because we did not use compressed air in the city water line??

Probably not regarding freezing, but you will be pumping a lot of water through the system in the spring to get the anti freeze out. (see post above). If the procedure Jim uses works in Alberta it should work for everyone.

[gbaglo]

If you choose to use RV antifreeze, it is hand pumped into the system through the city water connection ( not the fresh water tank ). Turn the water heater bypass valves so you don't fill it with antifreeze. Remove the anode from the water heater to drain it.
One person pumps and another opens taps in the trailer, sequentially, until pink fluid runs out. You also open the toilet trap until you see pink. Don't forget shower and outside shower ( if you have one ).
It takes very little RV antifreeze ( maybe half a gallon ). The remainder of two gallons is poured down the drains and into the black tank.

[SpokanEscape]

We followed these instructions. Paul for using RV antifreeze method. And yes we did use potable RV antifreeze So all should be well.

[SpokanEscape]

And Mr Baglo - just to be safe I will add some antifreeze through the city fill also! Thanks for the info!

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

If you choose to use RV antifreeze, it is hand pumped into the system through the city water connection ( not the fresh water tank ). One person pumps and another opens taps in the trailer, sequentially, until pink fluid runs out. You also open the toilet trap until you see pink. Don't forget shower and outside shower ( if you have one ).
It takes very little RV antifreeze ( maybe half a gallon ). The remainder of two gallons is poured down the drains and into the black tank.

What ensures you pump has been cleared out, as I don't believe that it goes through it when hooked to the city supply, does it?

[gbaglo]

According to the instructions from ETI, you run the pump for 10 or 15 seconds ( after draining the fresh water tank ). That clears any water out of the pump.
Should do the same, I guess, if you use the low-point drain method.

Forgot to mention that you need to turn the bypass valves on the hot water tank ( and drain it by removing the anode ). Don't want to pump 6 gals. of antifreeze into it either.

[GerriJ]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

Don't want to pump 6 gals. of antifreeze into it either.

Because if you do it will be a month of Sundays before you get the hot water tank cleaned out. Don't ask me how I know.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by GerriJ

Because if you do it will be a month of Sundays before you get the hot water tank cleaned out. Don't ask me how I know.

Same if you put it in the fresh water tank to distribute. It never completely empties, just dilutes more.

[gbaglo]

At least with the fresh water you can flush with a hose in the inlet and open the drain.
For the hot water tank, I think there is a small 'wand' you can get and insert in the hole for the anode. Used to flush out debris.
At Camping World:

[Brian B-P]

The problem of flushing water out of the pump if using antifreeze is why many RVs use a tee fitting in the line from the tank to the pump inlet, with a selector valve. With this setup the pump can draw antifreeze from the jug and push it through the entire system. That tee location is convenient on some RVs - especially large ones - but might be difficult to work with if it ends up under the trailer or in a difficult-to-access interior compartment.

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

If I could find an odorless, tasteless RV antifreeze I'd use it. But that stuff smells and tastes like perfume (IMHO) and saturates the lines. Someone suggested Vodka. Instead of draining the lines in the spring, you just open the tap and have a Martinil!

I really like the way you think, Donna. I wonder if I can get Reace to install a kegerator!

Since I moved to Florida, I have never winterized a camper. Just doesn't ever get cold enough for a long enough time to freeze anything.

[float5]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

If you choose to use RV antifreeze, it is hand pumped into the system through the city water connection ( not the fresh water tank ). Turn the water heater bypass valves so you don't fill it with antifreeze. Remove the anode from the water heater to drain it.
One person pumps and another opens taps in the trailer, sequentially, until pink fluid runs out. You also open the toilet trap until you see pink. Don't forget shower and outside shower ( if you have one ).
It takes very little RV antifreeze ( maybe half a gallon ). The remainder of two gallons is poured down the drains and into the black tank.

The photo showing the tube going into the city water is what needs to be done to clear water from the toilet valve. (Pouring anti-freeze into traps as many do will not clear that valve.). Our RV place said that they had seen hundreds of frozen ruined toilet valves (which cost us over a hundred dollars one spring) because just pouring anti-freeze into the toilet after draining lines does not get to the valve. Reace had issued new winterizing instructions in the last year or so at least partly because of that.

The other thing that needs to be done is to hit the screen in the city water to get the water out of it. And run water pump a few seconds to clear water.

So if you look up old instructions on this site about winterizing, they will not necessarily work. Need to use a pump through city water. We do not blow out lines as that is another method. Some people like to do both. Don't remember if the newer instructions also said to blow out lines but that used to be a second method. Some people combine both and some don't.

[gbaglo]

This is from last year about this time ( quoting myself ):

At some point and there is no way of telling by looking, the valve in the toilet was changed by Thetford without them telling anybody. It made for a quieter valve, but one that retains water, so it wouldn't drain using the low-point valve method.
Which is why Escape recommends blowing out the lines with compressed air ( which would include opening the toilet valve ) or by pumping anti-freeze through the lines ( including the toilet valve ).

As for the hand pump to pump anti-freeze through the city water inlet look up Camco RV anti-freeze hand pump or go here: Plastic Winterizing Hand Pump Kit - Camco 36003 - Winterizing - Camping World
The Camco site has step-by-step illustrated instructions.

[float5]

We were able to find a hand pump at a local RV place.

[J Mac]

gbaglo,
I just got one of those pumps at the RV place just off Pemberton in N. Van. I'm going to try the pump method this winter.
With the full time mattress in the rear it is a MAJOR HASSEL to get at the hotwater by-pass. I'm always concerned about tearing either the mattress cloth/cover or the window coverings or their fittings. Creating an access panel under the bed would be just as much of a hassel with visibility issues, the yoga positions required to get at the by-pass and etc. So...I fight with the mattress every year. As for the flavor of RV Antifreeze...I've never tried it. We bring bottled water, beer, white wine, Lemon Hart Rum and soft drinks. Our fresh water is just used for dishes and the toilet. So far I believe I flush out the fresh tank adequately, there doesn't seem to be any odor. Our water for coffee comes from the CG.

[Donna D.]

Harbor Freight has an inexpensive hand pump (CHEAP): Multi-Use Transfer Pump