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Old 08-17-2014, 04:08 PM   #21
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Tested cells this afternoon. Hydrometer read 12.75 or better on all cells (probably more like 12.71 if adjusted for temperature ). Electrolyte is clear.
Beats me.
Sounds almost like something is draining them. Have you tried testing with the cutoff switch off to disconnect the batteries from the system?

My voltages seem to drop much faster with cutoff on as opposed to off. I wonder what the draw is on the LP/CO detector - I wouldn't think it would be very much?
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Old 08-17-2014, 04:24 PM   #22
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I have no cutoff switch to my knowledge.
I've not had it connected to shore power since last afternoon when I used a battery charger to top up.
Only thing different is the Sirius dock is unplugged ( but it wasn't turned on, even when it was plugged in ).
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Old 08-17-2014, 04:28 PM   #23
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I have no cutoff switch to my knowledge.
I've not had it connected to shore power since last afternoon when I used a battery charger to top up.
Only thing different is the Sirius dock is unplugged ( but it wasn't turned on, even when it was plugged in ).
Maybe get the battery all charged up, then disconnect the negative terminal and compare how fast it drains to when it is connected.( Isolates the battery from the rest of the trailer.)
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Old 08-17-2014, 04:42 PM   #24
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Used the multi-meter and reads 12.5 or 6 ( eyes aren't what they used to be ) at the battery terminals.
I'm going to leave it unplugged from shore power for a few days and monitor it. Then I'll disconnect a terminal after charging and monitor that.
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Old 08-17-2014, 04:48 PM   #25
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Used the multi-meter and reads 12.5 or 6 ( eyes aren't what they used to be ) at the battery terminals.
I'm going to leave it unplugged from shore power for a few days and monitor it. Then I'll disconnect a terminal after charging and monitor that.
Sounds like that should give you some good data.
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Old 08-17-2014, 05:07 PM   #26
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Used the multi-meter and reads 12.5 or 6 ( eyes aren't what they used to be ) at the battery terminals.
I'm going to leave it unplugged from shore power for a few days and monitor it. Then I'll disconnect a terminal after charging and monitor that.
Is it possible that you misread the 12.02?

If we did not have a battery disconnect, ours would have been dead long ago. I take it that Escape did not always have the disconnect switch.
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Old 08-17-2014, 05:25 PM   #27
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Jubal did you buy one of the Boondocker main board replacements? What all is involved in swapping the assemblies?
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Old 08-17-2014, 05:43 PM   #28
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Is it possible that you misread the 12.02?
.
Nope. Cause I actually got 11.98 and 11.99 and then 12.02.
I am almost always plugged in to shore power when home, so I don't disconnect the battery.
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Old 08-17-2014, 05:45 PM   #29
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Is it possible that you misread the 12.02?

If we did not have a battery disconnect, ours would have been dead long ago. I take it that Escape did not always have the disconnect switch.
Hi: Floating Cloud... The 17'er's battery is mounted on the rear bumper, and so very accessible. When the battery is mounted inside the trailer...under something a disconnect switch is necessary/convenient. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
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Old 08-17-2014, 06:02 PM   #30
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Hi: Floating Cloud... The 17'er's battery is mounted on the rear bumper, and so very accessible. When the battery is mounted inside the trailer...under something a disconnect switch is necessary/convenient. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
Alf, our batteries are in the front box, as in most 19s. I was under the impression that the disconnect switch has the purpose of being able to stop all draw by the batteries when the Escape is in storage or some work is being done. Doesn't everyone's now come with a disconnect switch? Critical to us.
If the disconnect switch is not off in storage, something will be drawing power such as detectors. We do not remove the batteries, too heavy to want to fool with. We replace the water once in a while.
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Old 08-17-2014, 06:09 PM   #31
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I think all models now come with the disconnect. Not sure what year they became standard but our 2010 17B has one.
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Old 08-17-2014, 06:14 PM   #32
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You must have just missed out, Glenn. Maybe you could have that added.
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Old 08-17-2014, 06:29 PM   #33
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Doesn't take much effort to disconnect the battery. Just have to take the lid off the battery box on the back bumper and disconnect a terminal ( which I note could use some cleaning anyway ).
And anyway, it's almost always hooked up to shore power.
Was just on Canadian Tire site looking at their 27 deep cycle, on sale for $299.
Problem is they rate it 88 amp/h but don't indicate if that's the 5hr. rate, or 20 or what? Makes it hard to compare. Trojan is 105 AH at 20hr. rate and 85AH at 5hr. rate.
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Old 08-17-2014, 07:07 PM   #34
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Jubal did you buy one of the Boondocker main board replacements? What all is involved in swapping the assemblies?
I installed the Boondocker main board last year. I leave the trailer connected to shore power to maintain the two 6 volt batteries when we are not using it. Very easy to replace. Disconnect the battery and shore power. Remove the screws that secure the power distrbution panel. The 12v converter is in the bottom of the power distribution box. Remove 3 wires on the right side (12v) and 2wires on the left side (124v). Remove 2 screws that secure the WFCO converter. Install the Boondocker converter in reverse order. Hotfishtacos made the recommendation. Direct fit and direct replacement.
Randy at bestconvertors.com is very helpfull if you have any questions.
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Old 08-17-2014, 07:52 PM   #35
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I've got 2 twelve volt batteries. One on the bumper and one under the rear double bed, in a sealed battery box. The interior battery is a PITA to service. The only cut off switch I've got is for the interior battery. Outside battery can be unhooked easily.
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Old 08-17-2014, 08:24 PM   #36
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Doesn't take much effort to disconnect the battery. Just have to take the lid off the battery box on the back bumper and disconnect a terminal ( which I note could use some cleaning anyway ).
That may be your problem if it's not charging properly or not keeping a charge. You could have voltage drop between the terminals with a dirty battery top, a little baking soda and water will neutralize it.

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Old 08-17-2014, 08:27 PM   #37
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Yup. One thing about being retired is that you can always take care of it tomorrow.
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Old 08-17-2014, 08:29 PM   #38
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Yup. One thing about being retired is that you can always take care of it tomorrow.
..or the day after that.
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Old 08-17-2014, 08:57 PM   #39
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That may be your problem if it's not charging properly or not keeping a charge. You could have voltage drop between the terminals with a dirty battery top, a little baking soda and water will neutralize it.

Barry
In the Rialta we used to own, the battery suddenly went dead on me for no apparent reason. I found a mouse nest on top of it that managed to somehow pass current between the poles. Mouse pee?
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Old 08-17-2014, 09:06 PM   #40
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Actually, I did have to clean off "mud" on the top of the battery. I'm not sure if it was a mix of water and dust, or possibly electrolyte and dust. I was concerned enough to wear latex gloves.
When I took the cap of one set of cells, one of the cells bubbled ( didn't overflow or anything - just released some bubbles. ).
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