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Old 07-05-2015, 06:25 PM   #1
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No 12 volt power: solution found

Had a 12 volt electrical issue with the trailer. It wasn’t detected until a few days ago when I happened to check the Systems Monitor over the stove. No lights. Same with the red pump switch. No pump. Same with the hot water switch, and the cigarette lighter fixture. No current.

Checked for blown fuses; there were none. The battery was all good. What followed was a vexacious hunt for answers. Except for these certain 12 volt applications there was current, ceiling lights, when using shore power. Pulled out the WFCO operators’ booklet to troubleshoot but still got no joy.

Out of options. I call Corrales Dave, my guy. Dave got his 19 a month before me. It turns out he had a similar problem. No, it’s not a bad ground. Not the battery on/off switch, and not a bad WFCO distribution center. It is a bad inline circuit breaker. This is a little 30 Amp box the size of four sugar cubes that the red battery cable coming up from the floor connects to on its way to the WFCO. A four dollar item. Kind of hard to see and reach but easy to replace so long as you use a square screwdriver.
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Old 07-05-2015, 07:51 PM   #2
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I assume that your WFCO is under your left front dinette bench on your 19. Does anyone know where the inline circuit breaker is on older 19s where the WFCO is under the wardrobe closet? I'd like to carry a spare, and know where it goes without a lot of hunting.

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Old 07-05-2015, 08:02 PM   #3
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Sorry about your problem but thanks for posting. I've seen those fuses at Auto Zone and will be grabbing one for my spares box! Gracias!

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Old 07-05-2015, 08:02 PM   #4
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Thanks Myron. Might be worth having a spare one in the tool box.
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Old 07-05-2015, 08:11 PM   #5
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Thanks! Adding that to the list along with a shurflow pump and spare sail switch for the heater. Anything else?
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Old 07-05-2015, 08:54 PM   #6
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Thanks! Adding that to the list along with a shurflow pump and spare sail switch for the heater. Anything else?
What's a sail switch?
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Old 07-05-2015, 09:13 PM   #7
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What's a sail switch?
Its a small switch with a flat extension or paddle. It closes when there is adequate airflow for combustion. If it doesn't close, the furnace won't fire. Safety mechanism.

http://www.amazon.com/Atwood-36680-S.../dp/B004QMX9WY
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Old 07-05-2015, 09:51 PM   #8
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On a somewhat related note; does ETI supply a wiring diagram when purchasing a trailer?
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Old 07-05-2015, 10:25 PM   #9
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Sorry about your problem but thanks for posting. I've seen those fuses at Auto Zone and will be grabbing one for my spares box! Gracias!

G
Me too ! Thanks Myron for the head's up ! Pat
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Old 07-05-2015, 10:33 PM   #10
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Bussman cbc-30hb. $5 bucks from Amazon!
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Old 07-05-2015, 11:07 PM   #11
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On a somewhat related note; does ETI supply a wiring diagram when purchasing a trailer?
Nope but it's pretty simple to figure out.
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Old 07-06-2015, 01:09 AM   #12
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Bussman cbc-30hb. $5 bucks from Amazon!
Thanks Gregg . Pat
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Old 07-06-2015, 01:29 AM   #13
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Good work Myron and thank you for posting your "cure" for us all to learn .... but my biggest question is what caused it to blow in the first place?


Tom


I'm getting my 17A in late October but I have this little item on my list too. Maybe a couple in case I didn't fix the reason it blew in the first place.
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Old 07-06-2015, 09:14 AM   #14
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The NEC requires that the overcurrent device for the battery be as close as practicable to the battery . The overcurrent device should be within the first 18" of the battery conductors (18" of conductor length -- not 18" from the battery) if possible. In my Casita the battery overcurrent device is mounted to the exterior wall of the battery compartment under the lift out seat of the dinnette . The overcurrent device should be accessible. Accessible is defined as not requiring you to remove permanent portions of the structure to gain access. IE Buried in a wall is not accessible . My Scamp had a fuse in the battery box and a fuse just inside the front wall of the trailer.
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Old 07-06-2015, 09:36 AM   #15
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Wish I knew the failure cause, Tom. Have no idea. Best guess is the original breaker failed because it became a lemon. (I do know the Bussmann replacement is made in the USA.) I didn't know the breaker was even there until Corrales Dave clued me in. Then, a continuity test of it produced an audible buzz so I figured that weren't the problem.

I first worried the WFCO was gone bad because of the way its little fuse warning red lights were acting. Briefly on, then dim, then out, etc. I was out of options when Dave convinced me to check that breaker again so I removed it and when it failed another continuity test I just said what the hell and ran off to AutoZone. Problem solved.
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Old 07-06-2015, 10:01 AM   #16
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On a somewhat related note; does ETI supply a wiring diagram when purchasing a trailer?
No, since most ETI trailers are custom, that probably wouldn't be practical.

For the most part, it's pretty simple. Though this is the second fuse that I've seen that wouldn't seem to be intuitive. The other is on the refrigerator wiring block.
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Old 07-06-2015, 10:55 AM   #17
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Back to my question in post #2 - anyone know where this thing is on older 19s?

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Old 07-06-2015, 12:26 PM   #18
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Bruce...Well if I had to guess, based upon Steve's post above and where I found mine, it likely should be close by the WFCO and/or your battery.
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Old 07-06-2015, 03:04 PM   #19
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I checked my Escape 19 which was built in mid May and It appears I have three devices like this. Perhaps someone has an idea why there are three of them and what they might be for.
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Old 07-06-2015, 03:10 PM   #20
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Isn't the one on the left the back of the 12v disconnect switch?
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