not clearing the city water check valve

[paulk]

There are a few threads on this forum that say we should be winterizing the city water check valve. If winterizing via the winterizing T-valve or by putting RV antifreeze into the fresh water tank, supposedly we should be pressing the button that is behind the debris screen to drain out any residual water. I suspect this isn't actually required though, and I would like other opinions to see if I am missing something.

This thread shows the internal workings of the check valve. From the design, I do not believe that any water resides in the check valve itself:

http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f9...ve-2864.html#1

Attached is a picture of what my city water intake housing and pipes look like from inside my 17b. There is a short section of vertical pipe followed by another short section of horizontal pipe which then connects to the main water line. When the check valve button is pressed, there should be some water that would come out from the short vertical section.

I think if one was to pump antifreeze into the pipes, then antifreeze should reach all parts of those short sections of pipe and mix with the small amount of water there through diffusion. Since the city water specific pipe is quite short compared to the rest of the pipe in the water system, any water in the city water section shouldn't dilute the antifreeze too much in the remaining water system.

Can anyone think of a good reason why this might not be the case?

I think a similar condition applies when sanitizing the water system. I did my first sanitation and winterization a few days ago and cleared the check valve for both, but next time I'll skip this step if it's not required.

[Fox hunt]

I thought I was just supposed to remove the screen and push on the valve to let the water out.i didn't put any antifreeze in it.

[paulk]

Originally Posted by Fox hunt

I thought I was just supposed to remove the screen and push on the valve to let the water out.i didn't put any antifreeze in it.

If you push on the valve to let the water out, you shouldn't need to also add antifreeze. My suspicion though is that the valve never needs to be pushed, under any type of winterization method.

[TallyHo]

I think if one was to pump antifreeze into the pipes, then antifreeze should reach all parts of those short sections of pipe and mix with the small amount of water there through diffusion. Since the city water specific pipe is quite short compared to the rest of the pipe in the water system, any water in the city water section shouldn't dilute the antifreeze too much in the remaining water system.

I am guessing this is what happens as well. We used the T-valve wintering method and when I cleared the city water valve all that came out was antifreeze and we plan to skip that step next time.

[Donna D.]

Humm, maybe this is... An ounce of prevention prevents a pound of cure"? It's not like it takes hours to do. So what is gained by NOT doing it?

[cpaharley2008]

It all depends on which method of winterization you are using. If a pump, then yes you are putting antifreeze in that hose. If you are using the E-Z-winterization method, then there is still water in that hose/valve that can freeze, so you release the pressure and any water escapes from the valve. You can then turn the 3 way valve and start your winterization with the E-Z method.

[escape artist]

Hi: All... I blow the water lines down with my air pig, but I also release any trapped water in the "City water" back flow valve. It only takes a minute to prevent a headache!!! Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

[paulk]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

It all depends on which method of winterization you are using. If a pump, then yes you are putting antifreeze in that hose. If you are using the E-Z-winterization method, then there is still water in that hose/valve that can freeze, so you release the pressure and any water escapes from the valve. You can then turn the 3 way valve and start your winterization with the E-Z method.

The city water pipe connects to the rest of the trailer plumbing at a point after the pump, so antifreeze should reach that junction in both the E-Z and fresh water tank winterization methods.

[paulk]

Originally Posted by escape artist

Hi: All... I blow the water lines down with my air pig, but I also release any trapped water in the "City water" back flow valve. It only takes a minute to prevent a headache!!! Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

If any water comes out of that valve after winterizing with pressurized air, then I would definitely do it! I'm surprised this would happen though since I thought pressurized air was supposed to go in through the city water connection and clear downstream pipes of water. I suppose if any residual water remained in the pipes, it could drip back to this point and accumulate there.

[wetzk]

Originally Posted by escape artist

Hi: All... I blow the water lines down with my air pig, but I also release any trapped water in the "City water" back flow valve. It only takes a minute to prevent a headache!!! Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

How do you attach it?

[paulk]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

Humm, maybe this is... An ounce of prevention prevents a pound of cure"? It's not like it takes hours to do. So what is gained by NOT doing it?

No harm in taking the safe route, if you know what you are doing. I would however point out that inexperienced people like myself might handle the valve incorrectly. I initially blew out the valve with the system under pressure, and afterwards learned that this was the worst thing to do as it can damage the O ring inside.

[escape artist]

Originally Posted by wetzk

How do you attach it?

Hi wetzk... How? With a blow out plug. There is always a little residual water in there behind the valve. The temps are falling here. Could be below freezing next week. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

[Fox hunt]

i didn't blow anything out i just used the easy winterizing pump thing in the trailer and pumped anti freeze through the faucets.(and poured it down drains and in toilet and drained and bypassed the water heater) and pressed on the little valve thing on the city water to release a little water and emptied the fresh water tank

[Iowa Dave]

Nice summary of winterizing process. I did not see the shower hose and head listed. I usually take it loose at the sink and hold it high. Push the cross valve at the head and watch the water wet my pants.
Then I open the valve on the sink for a few seconds and let it flow backward, close it again, close the cross valve on the head and reinstall the hose on the sink connection. It will be about 20F here Wednesday AM so final winterizing steps today including a bucket of damp dry in the camper.
Dave

[David H]

Originally Posted by paulk

If any water comes out of that valve after winterizing with pressurized air, then I would definitely do it! I'm surprised this would happen though since I thought pressurized air was supposed to go in through the city water connection and clear downstream pipes of water. I suppose if any residual water remained in the pipes, it could drip back to this point and accumulate there.

It does. I have a 2014 17B and use compressed air to purge the system first via the city water connection, then as a precautionary measure follow up by filling the system with plumbers anti freeze via the upstream connection at the pump. $10 cn for the plumbers antifreeze and 10 minutes to do it are cheap insurance and peace of mind that all's well. Removing the connection between the pump and the fresh water tank also allows the small amount of water there to drain back into the fresh water tank.

[cpaharley2008]

Do not forget the o/s shower hook up.

[Steve Clark]

Originally Posted by wetzk

How do you attach it?

per instructions, “Hold him by his little ears and insert his quick connect pigtail”.