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Old 07-25-2015, 09:26 PM   #261
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Probably Anderson connectors with 8 gauge wire back to the trailer from the tonneau panel. But I would rather have my cover on the truck all the time, and a big low-mounted panel would surely be a target for a thief.
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Old 07-25-2015, 10:11 PM   #262
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Ron,
Your comment got me thinking, why not, for those with trucks, cover the rear bed with solar panels. I have a tonneau cover and I'm sure I can velcro maybe a couple 100 watt panels, run the wire with your umbilical to the trailer?? Have to figure out the best wiring, any ideas?
Yah, well your comment got me thinking also. I alternate between a canopy and a tonneau. Since my tonneau sections are 1" foam topped with aluminum they'd be plenty strong enough to support a solar panel or two. Since they slide in and out in a "C" shape track it'd be really easy to slide the panel out and use it as a portable panel to get optimum sun. Hmm, stop suggesting new projects.

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Old 07-25-2015, 11:24 PM   #263
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Ron, I screwed up through the 3 layers of 1x4 pVC to make sure they stayed aligned while the 5200 cured. But nothing through the fiberglass. I have found holes in fiberglass can be the start of cracks.

Jim, I routed the panel wiring down through the fridge vent. Under the cover through screen holes and down a corner. You can see them lower left in the picture.
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Old 07-26-2015, 01:31 PM   #264
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Ron, I screwed up through the 3 layers of 1x4 pVC to make sure they stayed aligned while the 5200 cured. But nothing through the fiberglass. I have found holes in fiberglass can be the start of cracks.

Jim, I routed the panel wiring down through the fridge vent. Under the cover through screen holes and down a corner. You can see them lower left in the picture.
Klem like where you are going here . One ? Is the PVC UV at all ? I am just more familiar working with wood . From the heat and weighting down that is how it forms to roof I assume . Pat
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Old 07-26-2015, 03:24 PM   #265
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Hi Pat

i haven't painted any yet, other then that it's great.

VerandaHP Building Products: Works Just Like Wood

This stuff from Home Depot. It bends smoothly because there is no grain pattern. Also gentle twists are not a problem. And 5200 and a little weight you can watch it marry to a surface nicely. I test the weight then add the adhesive and adjust iit if needed. I put painters tape down to mark where I want it and also more to hold it in a location if it wants to creep.
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Old 07-26-2015, 04:05 PM   #266
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Hi Pat

i haven't painted any yet, other then that it's great.

VerandaHP Building Products: Works Just Like Wood

This stuff from Home Depot. It bends smoothly because there is no grain pattern. Also gentle twists are not a problem. And 5200 and a little weight you can watch it marry to a surface nicely. I test the weight then add the adhesive and adjust iit if needed. I put painters tape down to mark where I want it and also more to hold it in a location if it wants to creep.
Ok Klem I am familiar with like product at Lowe's I built a deck around my above ground pool with it .The gray . Love working with product. Going to check out our Home Depot for their's . Another ? What about the 5200 . Do you think it can act like a solvent on product before it cure's or no worries . Pat
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Old 07-26-2015, 05:19 PM   #267
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I've read to countersink holes in FG to prevent cracking.
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Old 07-26-2015, 05:34 PM   #268
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I've read to countersink holes in FG to prevent cracking.
Bob do you think that is a good idea when it has been said this fiberglass is 1/8 thick ? Pat
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Old 07-26-2015, 05:40 PM   #269
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Hi Pat,


I've normally use Loctite PL adhesives with it for 'permanent' and latex or silicon for tacking it to something and I can pop off with a putty knife .. maybe.


For the panels on the trailer I wanted it to be 100% permanent so I used 5200 short cure. I've spent a lot of time around boats and 5200 has been my choice since it was available especially for fiberglass work. Anything glossy or slick I scratch it with some sand paper.


I built a steamroom/bathroom and used all Veranda products and tile with epoxy grout. 10+ years later we just wipe things down. I've used it outdoors whenever I can, never a problem with sun etc. I use small (trim) head stainless square drive screws to hold it up, and dab some caulk in the hole after the face shrinks around the head.
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Old 07-26-2015, 05:50 PM   #270
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Hi Pat,


I've normally use Loctite PL adhesives with it for 'permanent' and latex or silicon for tacking it to something and I can pop off with a putty knife .. maybe.


For the panels on the trailer I wanted it to be 100% permanent so I used 5200 short cure. I've spent a lot of time around boats and 5200 has been my choice since it was available especially for fiberglass work. Anything glossy or slick I scratch it with some sand paper.


I built a steamroom/bathroom and used all Veranda products and tile with epoxy grout. 10+ years later we just wipe things down. I've used it outdoors whenever I can, never a problem with sun etc. I use small (trim) head stainless square drive screws to hold it up, and dab some caulk in the hole after the face shrinks around the head.
Thanks Klem . I understand the small square drive stainless screws . That is what I used on my decking . Never knew about the 5200 though . I have used the pl loctite adhesives before . Pat
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Old 07-26-2015, 05:58 PM   #271
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Bob do you think that is a good idea when it has been said this fiberglass is 1/8 thick ? Pat
I think the idea is to not leave square edges, I'd just countersink any holes a smidgen with light pressure. But then this is just something I read not long ago when looking onto the solar mounting issue.
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Old 07-26-2015, 06:00 PM   #272
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I think the idea is to not leave square edges, I'd just countersink any holes a smidgen with light pressure. But then this is just something I read not long ago when looking onto the solar mounting issue.
Bob how can you have square holes if you drill the hole's ? Pat
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Old 07-26-2015, 06:04 PM   #273
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I'm going to take a pass on this question. I just searched drilling holes in fiberglass and there are as many opinions as people... How about running your drill backward? Lot's of controversy there too.


I wish you all the best in your hole drilling ... I didn't drill any yet!
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Old 07-26-2015, 06:36 PM   #274
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I always use a piece of tape attached to the fiberglass and drill thru the tape and wall, done it successfully now at least a dozen times without any cracks. Works with plaster walls also....
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Old 07-26-2015, 07:59 PM   #275
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I always use a piece of tape attached to the fiberglass and drill thru the tape and wall, done it successfully now at least a dozen times without any cracks. Works with plaster walls also....
Jim that is good practice even if you drill through wood placing a piece of wood as backing before you drill helps with the wood not splintering . I believe that the fear is fiberglass cracking from stress and movement, temp changes , water many things , the holes that have been drilled with bolting through after . I would think the air force going down the road will put stress on the attachments , stressing the fiberglass . Pat
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Old 07-26-2015, 08:17 PM   #276
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I have not gotten my kit for the 21' yet. Do I understand correctly the bolt heads end up in the cupboards?
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Old 07-26-2015, 08:35 PM   #277
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I have not gotten my kit for the 21' yet. Do I understand correctly the bolt heads end up in the cupboards?
Depends upon the panel size. The 150/160 W panels use bolts through roof into the upper storage compartment. The 95 W panels use screws through the dome of the roof and are exposed in the ceiling interior.
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Old 07-26-2015, 08:40 PM   #278
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Depends upon the panel size. The 150/160 W panels use bolts through roof into the upper storage compartment. The 95 W panels use screws through the dome of the roof and are exposed in the ceiling interior.
We have the 160 so I won't have to agonize over exposed bolt heads.
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Old 07-26-2015, 08:43 PM   #279
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I read in this forum sometimes ago that someone suggested using anchor screw to avoid going through the ceiling. Anchor/Screws: Steel Threaded Inserts - The Insert Company (UK) Ltd an UK company
Steel Threaded Inserts for Solar panel anchor
High quality zinc plated steel and stainless steel threaded inserts.
Screw Anchors
Zinc plated steel screw anchors / hollow wall anchors, for use in thin sectioned materials; sheet metal, fiberglass, plastics, composites etc. where one surface is inaccessible.
The head and collapsible legs form a load bearing surface on both sides of the material.
Will this anchor screw work to secure the solar panel? Casita uses a lot of rivets through the fiberglass without any problem.

Tonny
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Old 07-26-2015, 09:01 PM   #280
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I read in this forum sometimes ago that someone suggested using anchor screw to avoid going through the ceiling. Anchor/Screws: Steel Threaded Inserts - The Insert Company (UK) Ltd an UK company
Steel Threaded Inserts for Solar panel anchor
High quality zinc plated steel and stainless steel threaded inserts.
Screw Anchors
Zinc plated steel screw anchors / hollow wall anchors, for use in thin sectioned materials; sheet metal, fiberglass, plastics, composites etc. where one surface is inaccessible.
The head and collapsible legs form a load bearing surface on both sides of the material.
Will this anchor screw work to secure the solar panel? Casita uses a lot of rivets through the fiberglass without any problem.

Tonny
The screw anchors are also called jack nuts and would provide backing on the inside of the 1/8" fiberglass roof. They are avaliable for different material thickness.
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