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Old 07-23-2015, 10:55 PM   #221
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Here is my mount. Full 1x4 PVC sticks held together and mounted to the fiberglass with 24 hour 5200. Then screw panels ... Or whatever, to the frame.

I screwed the sticks together from the bottom and weighted it down with my favorite concrete blocks for a few days.
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Old 07-23-2015, 11:07 PM   #222
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Originally Posted by Klem View Post
Here is my mount. Full 1x4 PVC sticks held together and mounted to the fiberglass with 24 hour 5200. Then screw panels ... Or whatever, to the frame.

I screwed the sticks together from the bottom and weighted it down with my favorite concrete blocks for a few days.
Might think about an air diverter in the front; that's what the ETI square tubing fix is, apparently to reduce the wind getting under the panels.

So far these have stayed on fine with 3M RP45 tape:
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File Type: jpg air2.jpg (268.9 KB, 18 views)
File Type: jpg air4.jpg (121.9 KB, 12 views)
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Old 07-23-2015, 11:13 PM   #223
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Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
Absolutely correct. Bottom line, don't mess with epoxy on anything important unless you have the experience to do so. I've epoxy coated a 5,000 lb. keel and run the flange onto the f.g. Very difficult, high stress, salt water environment without any problems but again, preparation and experience.

Quite frankly, the first time I heard that ETI was using VHB tape to put panels on the roof I was aghast Epoxy can work but again there are several things that have to be done correctly. Personally, the only way I'd put solar panels on my roof would be to bolt them on.

Since I don't like bolts through the roof that's why my panel is mounted over the tongue box.

Ron
Thanks Ron for not giving me flap . I do have a folding panel 80 watt from Go pro and a little 1000watt Honda generator so it's not like I have nothing to boon dock . Where can I see your panel mount ? Very interested . That being said I only have worked with fiberglass a couple of times . I glassed in a new bottom in my camper I bought used with cloth . It had a crack in shower . I had it 12 years and it still was holding up . Also supported the shower pan bottom better . Also use to make fish tanks they were wooden with glass port hole on the sides and front glass of course .The fiberglass was inside tank with colors using boat resin . Sold a lot of them . They were very nautical looking , like treasure chests . I really don't want any more holes on my roof either so I think I am going to pass . I am worried too the stress maybe with the air going under those panels pulling and maybe cracking the fiberglass . Don't know if that is valid but I had that concern . Well good having this conversation with you . Pat
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Old 07-23-2015, 11:21 PM   #224
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Originally Posted by Klem View Post
Here is my mount. Full 1x4 PVC sticks held together and mounted to the fiberglass with 24 hour 5200. Then screw panels ... Or whatever, to the frame.

I screwed the sticks together from the bottom and weighted it down with my favorite concrete blocks for a few days.
Very clean installation Klem . Pat
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Old 07-23-2015, 11:29 PM   #225
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Might think about an air diverter in the front; that's what the ETI square tubing fix is, apparently to reduce the wind getting under the panels.

So far these have stayed on fine with 3M RP45 tape:
It would be nice if they could be set to 'scrub' the panels when it rains?

From my experience the platform is overbuilt, unless the fiberglass is so thin it fails.... I have over 160 sq in. of contact area on the fiberglass bedded in 5200. And the flat plate equivalent of the panels is minimal in comparison.

The wild card is the strength of the fiberglass itself. Your diverters are a great add on that may also help clean the panels?
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Old 07-23-2015, 11:38 PM   #226
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Klem; ah, 5200 I've had the pleasure of removing an anchor winch from a deck that had 5200 used as a sealant. How do you spell "hammer and chisel" I like your solution because it avoids one the the things I don't like about through bolting. I've found, on boats in cold weather, condensation would form on the interior ends of the bolts and drip. Your PVC isolates the attachment screws and avoids any condensation issues.

Pat; If I didn't want a swiveling, tilting solar panel I would have done much the same as Klem. I would have screwed a polymer block to the roof and attached the panel to it to avoid any through bolting.

This is my set-up. It's not for everyone but I've been used to being able to obtain maximum output from my panels on boats so I went this route. Panel travels in the down position and charges while driving, it can be raised to give 360* tracking no matter which way the trailer is facing and it can be lifted off and placed remotely if the trailer is in the shade.

Ron
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Old 07-23-2015, 11:47 PM   #227
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Klem; ah, 5200 I've had the pleasure of removing an anchor winch from a deck that had 5200 used as a sealant. How do you spell "hammer and chisel" I like your solution because it avoids one the the things I don't like about through bolting. I've found, on boats in cold weather, condensation would form on the interior ends of the bolts and drip. Your PVC isolates the attachment screws and avoids any condensation issues.

Pat; If I didn't want a swiveling, tilting solar panel I would have done much the same as Klem. I would have screwed a polymer block to the roof and attached the panel to it to avoid any through bolting.

This is my set-up. It's not for everyone but I've been used to being able to obtain maximum output from my panels on boats so I went this route. Panel travels in the down position and charges while driving, it can be raised to give 360* tracking no matter which way the trailer is facing and it can be lifted off and placed remotely if the trailer is in the shade.

Ron
Thanks Ron . I am going to bookmark your installation . Kind of like ! Pat
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Old 07-24-2015, 12:52 PM   #228
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I think some short work shops at our rally's might be a good idea ....... how to fiberglass, how to manage epoxy, caulking to use and to avoid (never use 5200 for anything), electrical system tune ups, how to find the best campgrounds ..... etc. Etc..

Just thinking out loud ....
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Old 07-24-2015, 01:04 PM   #229
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Might think about an air diverter in the front; that's what the ETI square tubing fix is, apparently to reduce the wind getting under the panels.
So far these have stayed on fine with 3M RP45 tape:
Can you describe the ETI square tubing fix. I am aware of the add on brackets and cable tethers, but I have not seen any reference to reducing the wind getting under the panels.
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Old 07-24-2015, 02:06 PM   #230
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Ron, what happens with the 2 propane tanks?
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