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Old 07-25-2015, 10:26 PM   #261
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Probably Anderson connectors with 8 gauge wire back to the trailer from the tonneau panel. But I would rather have my cover on the truck all the time, and a big low-mounted panel would surely be a target for a thief.
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Old 07-25-2015, 11:11 PM   #262
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
Ron,
Your comment got me thinking, why not, for those with trucks, cover the rear bed with solar panels. I have a tonneau cover and I'm sure I can velcro maybe a couple 100 watt panels, run the wire with your umbilical to the trailer?? Have to figure out the best wiring, any ideas?
Yah, well your comment got me thinking also. I alternate between a canopy and a tonneau. Since my tonneau sections are 1" foam topped with aluminum they'd be plenty strong enough to support a solar panel or two. Since they slide in and out in a "C" shape track it'd be really easy to slide the panel out and use it as a portable panel to get optimum sun. Hmm, stop suggesting new projects.

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Old 07-26-2015, 12:24 AM   #263
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Ron, I screwed up through the 3 layers of 1x4 pVC to make sure they stayed aligned while the 5200 cured. But nothing through the fiberglass. I have found holes in fiberglass can be the start of cracks.

Jim, I routed the panel wiring down through the fridge vent. Under the cover through screen holes and down a corner. You can see them lower left in the picture.
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Old 07-26-2015, 02:31 PM   #264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klem View Post
Ron, I screwed up through the 3 layers of 1x4 pVC to make sure they stayed aligned while the 5200 cured. But nothing through the fiberglass. I have found holes in fiberglass can be the start of cracks.

Jim, I routed the panel wiring down through the fridge vent. Under the cover through screen holes and down a corner. You can see them lower left in the picture.
Klem like where you are going here . One ? Is the PVC UV at all ? I am just more familiar working with wood . From the heat and weighting down that is how it forms to roof I assume . Pat
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Old 07-26-2015, 04:24 PM   #265
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Hi Pat

i haven't painted any yet, other then that it's great.

VerandaHP Building Products: Works Just Like Wood

This stuff from Home Depot. It bends smoothly because there is no grain pattern. Also gentle twists are not a problem. And 5200 and a little weight you can watch it marry to a surface nicely. I test the weight then add the adhesive and adjust iit if needed. I put painters tape down to mark where I want it and also more to hold it in a location if it wants to creep.
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Old 07-26-2015, 05:05 PM   #266
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Hi Pat

i haven't painted any yet, other then that it's great.

VerandaHP Building Products: Works Just Like Wood

This stuff from Home Depot. It bends smoothly because there is no grain pattern. Also gentle twists are not a problem. And 5200 and a little weight you can watch it marry to a surface nicely. I test the weight then add the adhesive and adjust iit if needed. I put painters tape down to mark where I want it and also more to hold it in a location if it wants to creep.
Ok Klem I am familiar with like product at Lowe's I built a deck around my above ground pool with it .The gray . Love working with product. Going to check out our Home Depot for their's . Another ? What about the 5200 . Do you think it can act like a solvent on product before it cure's or no worries . Pat
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Old 07-26-2015, 06:19 PM   #267
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I've read to countersink holes in FG to prevent cracking.
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Old 07-26-2015, 06:34 PM   #268
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I've read to countersink holes in FG to prevent cracking.
Bob do you think that is a good idea when it has been said this fiberglass is 1/8 thick ? Pat
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Old 07-26-2015, 06:40 PM   #269
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Hi Pat,


I've normally use Loctite PL adhesives with it for 'permanent' and latex or silicon for tacking it to something and I can pop off with a putty knife .. maybe.


For the panels on the trailer I wanted it to be 100% permanent so I used 5200 short cure. I've spent a lot of time around boats and 5200 has been my choice since it was available especially for fiberglass work. Anything glossy or slick I scratch it with some sand paper.


I built a steamroom/bathroom and used all Veranda products and tile with epoxy grout. 10+ years later we just wipe things down. I've used it outdoors whenever I can, never a problem with sun etc. I use small (trim) head stainless square drive screws to hold it up, and dab some caulk in the hole after the face shrinks around the head.
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Old 07-26-2015, 06:50 PM   #270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klem View Post
Hi Pat,


I've normally use Loctite PL adhesives with it for 'permanent' and latex or silicon for tacking it to something and I can pop off with a putty knife .. maybe.


For the panels on the trailer I wanted it to be 100% permanent so I used 5200 short cure. I've spent a lot of time around boats and 5200 has been my choice since it was available especially for fiberglass work. Anything glossy or slick I scratch it with some sand paper.


I built a steamroom/bathroom and used all Veranda products and tile with epoxy grout. 10+ years later we just wipe things down. I've used it outdoors whenever I can, never a problem with sun etc. I use small (trim) head stainless square drive screws to hold it up, and dab some caulk in the hole after the face shrinks around the head.
Thanks Klem . I understand the small square drive stainless screws . That is what I used on my decking . Never knew about the 5200 though . I have used the pl loctite adhesives before . Pat
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