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Old 10-31-2015, 10:11 PM   #421
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Originally Posted by Viajante View Post
Jxoco, yes, well nuts will work. There is an inch of space between the fiberglass reinforcement cap and the thin ceiling. The insulation and vinyl headliner are attached to the underside of the ceiling. I don't know if there is a space under the rear part of the roof aft of the reinforcement cap. Speaking from perspective of a 2010 trailer.
I was interested in these well nuts, but don't they leave a length of bolt equal to the crushed portion of the rubber bushing protruding when you tighten the screw or bolt?

I don't know what the fiberglass reinforcement cap is, so I may not understand how they work. I'm doing a new install with just the flat-ish 19 roof. I have the headliner out, though so some options for mounting the aluminum Z brackets that came with the panel.

Regards,

Matt
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Old 10-31-2015, 10:26 PM   #422
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Originally Posted by memobug View Post
I was interested in these well nuts, but don't they leave a length of bolt equal to the crushed portion of the rubber bushing protruding when you tighten the screw or bolt?

I don't know what the fiberglass reinforcement cap is, so I may not understand how they work. I'm doing a new install with just the flat-ish 19 roof. I have the headliner out, though so some options for mounting the aluminum Z brackets that came with the panel.

Regards,

Matt
If you put them in from below the threaded portion will stick up though the bracket hole. I'd then put a washer and lock nut on the top side to keep it from unscrewing.
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Old 10-31-2015, 11:48 PM   #423
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Yes I can see that working, but I guess you wind up with holes in the headliner?

The two potentially exciting things I see about well nuts is they can be installed without rear access (say from the roof) and that they self seal to a large degree. Since I have rear access and was trying to avoid holes, I think epoxying a threaded nut or blind insert to holes in the ceiling and then glassing over them would be a more waterproof, permanent option.

If my panels were wider the brackets fasteners would fall inside the cabinets. I like that but I didn't like the way the wide panel looks.

Compromises!
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Old 11-01-2015, 12:00 AM   #424
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Originally Posted by memobug View Post
Yes I can see that working, but I guess you wind up with holes in the headliner?

The two potentially exciting things I see about well nuts is they can be installed without rear access (say from the roof) and that they self seal to a large degree. Since I have rear access and was trying to avoid holes, I think epoxying a threaded nut or blind insert to holes in the ceiling and then glassing over them would be a more waterproof, permanent option.

If my panels were wider the brackets fasteners would fall inside the cabinets. I like that but I didn't like the way the wide panel looks.

Compromises!
Being an engineer, my think would be the heck with the ETI brackets and have a machine shop make some that would mount where I was willing to have holes come through the headliner. Since you can't make the panels wider make the brackets wider (have an extension welded on).

Not like bolting something down is rocket science, just make it fit the way you wish.
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Old 11-01-2015, 09:43 AM   #425
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I'd also love to find a source for small tubes. When I use a small amount from the standard caulking gun tube, I use my air compressor to blow the material back out of the plastic dispenser portion of the tube, then seal the end with gaffers tape. Eventually, this fails, and I cut the tube and use a putty knife to dig out & apply the stuff. Clean up with acetone. I still rarely use more than half a tube before it becomes unusable...
You've got a great idea there. I think that since I need such a small amount, instead of using the caulking gun, I'll just drill a hole in the side of the tube and pull out what I need. Then, I can just cover the hole with saran wrap and hopefully keep the tube "pristine" for future use.
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Old 11-01-2015, 03:31 PM   #426
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Originally Posted by memobug View Post
I was interested in these well nuts, but don't they leave a length of bolt equal to the crushed portion of the rubber bushing protruding when you tighten the screw or bolt?

I don't know what the fiberglass reinforcement cap is, so I may not understand how they work. I'm doing a new install with just the flat-ish 19 roof. I have the headliner out, though so some options for mounting the aluminum Z brackets that came with the panel.

Regards,

Matt
Your right.
I thought that i would have to lock-tight, the permanent kind, a stainless stud to the well nut and place it in the hole in the fiberglass. and then use a nylock nut to cinch down the bracket.
The bracket, well nut, etc would be bathed in dicor
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Old 11-01-2015, 04:32 PM   #427
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Originally Posted by jxoco View Post
Your right.
I thought that i would have to lock-tight, the permanent kind, a stainless stud to the well nut and place it in the hole in the fiberglass. and then use a nylock nut to cinch down the bracket.
The bracket, well nut, etc would be bathed in dicor
Rivet Nuts/ Threaded Inserts | Jack Nuts | Buy Rivets | Rivet tools - Rivet Nuts & Other Specialty Fasteners
The rivet nut should be expanded prior to fastening a bracket or it could just spin when trying to expand it with a bolt or stud. Some friction wrenches are also available.
http://www.hansonrivet.com/jack-nut-...ed-inserts.htm
The jack nuts are better than a drive rivet that needs to be hammered to expand especially in thin materials such as 1/8" fiberglass/gel coat.
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Old 11-01-2015, 08:12 PM   #428
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How about just plain pop rivets, covered with sealant? They're used in many other places on the trailer, from the hatches to grilles and even marker lights. They go in blind and compress close to flat, could be drilled out if necessary.

Regards,

Matt
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Old 11-01-2015, 08:47 PM   #429
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How about just plain pop rivets, covered with sealant? They're used in many other places on the trailer, from the hatches to grilles and even marker lights. They go in blind and compress close to flat, could be drilled out if necessary.

Regards,

Matt
If you've ever owned a Scamp or Casita you've most likely become adept at replacing pop rivets. They pop again under very little stress if you use the standard aluminum ones both brands have used in production for decades. In addition, only one side is near flat.
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Old 11-01-2015, 09:40 PM   #430
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How about just plain pop rivets, covered with sealant? They're used in many other places on the trailer, from the hatches to grilles and even marker lights. They go in blind and compress close to flat, could be drilled out if necessary.

Regards,

Matt
You also should use backing plates . One manufacturer uses 1/4 thick aluminum back up plates . I like to overdo things myself . Pat
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