Our solar panel blew off!!

[memobug]

Originally Posted by Viajante

Jxoco, yes, well nuts will work. There is an inch of space between the fiberglass reinforcement cap and the thin ceiling. The insulation and vinyl headliner are attached to the underside of the ceiling. I don't know if there is a space under the rear part of the roof aft of the reinforcement cap. Speaking from perspective of a 2010 trailer.

I was interested in these well nuts, but don't they leave a length of bolt equal to the crushed portion of the rubber bushing protruding when you tighten the screw or bolt?

I don't know what the fiberglass reinforcement cap is, so I may not understand how they work. I'm doing a new install with just the flat-ish 19 roof. I have the headliner out, though so some options for mounting the aluminum Z brackets that came with the panel.

Regards,

Matt

[tractors1]

Originally Posted by memobug

I was interested in these well nuts, but don't they leave a length of bolt equal to the crushed portion of the rubber bushing protruding when you tighten the screw or bolt?

I don't know what the fiberglass reinforcement cap is, so I may not understand how they work. I'm doing a new install with just the flat-ish 19 roof. I have the headliner out, though so some options for mounting the aluminum Z brackets that came with the panel.

Regards,

Matt

If you put them in from below the threaded portion will stick up though the bracket hole. I'd then put a washer and lock nut on the top side to keep it from unscrewing.

[memobug]

Yes I can see that working, but I guess you wind up with holes in the headliner?

The two potentially exciting things I see about well nuts is they can be installed without rear access (say from the roof) and that they self seal to a large degree. Since I have rear access and was trying to avoid holes, I think epoxying a threaded nut or blind insert to holes in the ceiling and then glassing over them would be a more waterproof, permanent option.

If my panels were wider the brackets fasteners would fall inside the cabinets. I like that but I didn't like the way the wide panel looks.

Compromises!

[tractors1]

Originally Posted by memobug

Yes I can see that working, but I guess you wind up with holes in the headliner?

The two potentially exciting things I see about well nuts is they can be installed without rear access (say from the roof) and that they self seal to a large degree. Since I have rear access and was trying to avoid holes, I think epoxying a threaded nut or blind insert to holes in the ceiling and then glassing over them would be a more waterproof, permanent option.

If my panels were wider the brackets fasteners would fall inside the cabinets. I like that but I didn't like the way the wide panel looks.

Compromises!

Being an engineer, my think would be the heck with the ETI brackets and have a machine shop make some that would mount where I was willing to have holes come through the headliner. Since you can't make the panels wider make the brackets wider (have an extension welded on).

Not like bolting something down is rocket science, just make it fit the way you wish.

[kstock11]

Originally Posted by Vermilye

I'd also love to find a source for small tubes. When I use a small amount from the standard caulking gun tube, I use my air compressor to blow the material back out of the plastic dispenser portion of the tube, then seal the end with gaffers tape. Eventually, this fails, and I cut the tube and use a putty knife to dig out & apply the stuff. Clean up with acetone. I still rarely use more than half a tube before it becomes unusable...

You've got a great idea there. I think that since I need such a small amount, instead of using the caulking gun, I'll just drill a hole in the side of the tube and pull out what I need. Then, I can just cover the hole with saran wrap and hopefully keep the tube "pristine" for future use.

[jxoco]

Originally Posted by memobug

I was interested in these well nuts, but don't they leave a length of bolt equal to the crushed portion of the rubber bushing protruding when you tighten the screw or bolt?

I don't know what the fiberglass reinforcement cap is, so I may not understand how they work. I'm doing a new install with just the flat-ish 19 roof. I have the headliner out, though so some options for mounting the aluminum Z brackets that came with the panel.

Regards,

Matt

Your right.
I thought that i would have to lock-tight, the permanent kind, a stainless stud to the well nut and place it in the hole in the fiberglass. and then use a nylock nut to cinch down the bracket.
The bracket, well nut, etc would be bathed in dicor

[Jubal]

Originally Posted by jxoco

Your right.
I thought that i would have to lock-tight, the permanent kind, a stainless stud to the well nut and place it in the hole in the fiberglass. and then use a nylock nut to cinch down the bracket.
The bracket, well nut, etc would be bathed in dicor

Rivet Nuts/ Threaded Inserts | Jack Nuts | Buy Rivets | Rivet tools - Rivet Nuts & Other Specialty Fasteners
The rivet nut should be expanded prior to fastening a bracket or it could just spin when trying to expand it with a bolt or stud. Some friction wrenches are also available.
http://www.hansonrivet.com/jack-nut-...ed-inserts.htm
The jack nuts are better than a drive rivet that needs to be hammered to expand especially in thin materials such as 1/8" fiberglass/gel coat.

[memobug]

How about just plain pop rivets, covered with sealant? They're used in many other places on the trailer, from the hatches to grilles and even marker lights. They go in blind and compress close to flat, could be drilled out if necessary.

Regards,

Matt

[tractors1]

Originally Posted by memobug

How about just plain pop rivets, covered with sealant? They're used in many other places on the trailer, from the hatches to grilles and even marker lights. They go in blind and compress close to flat, could be drilled out if necessary.

Regards,

Matt

If you've ever owned a Scamp or Casita you've most likely become adept at replacing pop rivets. They pop again under very little stress if you use the standard aluminum ones both brands have used in production for decades. In addition, only one side is near flat.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by memobug

How about just plain pop rivets, covered with sealant? They're used in many other places on the trailer, from the hatches to grilles and even marker lights. They go in blind and compress close to flat, could be drilled out if necessary.

Regards,

Matt

You also should use backing plates . One manufacturer uses 1/4 thick aluminum back up plates . I like to overdo things myself . Pat

[Viajante]

Memobug,
The fiberglass reinforcement cap is the extra layer of fiberglass that extends across the whole roof in the area where the air conditioner is or would be located. It is at least a quarter inch thick. There is a gap of an inch between this outer cap or shell and the inner ceiling. Plenty of space for the well nut to protrude into. Again, from the perspective of a 2010 trailer.

Perhaps someone with later model could confirm that construction is the same. My concern with bolting through to the ceiling is that tightening the nut would squeeze the ceiling and outer cap toward each other but not tightly together. Whereas the well nut fastens only to the thick outer shell.

[memobug]

Thanks for the explanation, Viajante. Which model(s) have the cap?

My trailer is fairly old 2009 19'. I noticed I don't have the extra reinforcement strips of 5" laminate across the front roof above the dinette that I've see in recent builds. I am not sure how the rear might differ.

Regards,

Matt

[bisonbill]

I hate to resurrect this thread, but...
We received our solar bolt down kit late in the season last year, so I put it in the trailer and left it until spring. Today its spring and we took the cover off the trailer.

I have a 2014 21' with the smaller 95w solar panel. I opened up the box, read the directions, and realized if I install the brackets according to the instructions, the holes wouldn't be in the cabinets, but rather would be right in the middle of the unit. Four clearly visible holes in the headliner is not what I had in mind. I don't want the panel blowing off, but I also don't want the inside of the unit messed up.

Has anybody secured the solar panels another way? Anybody upgraded to the bigger panel so the holes end up in the cabinet? Anybody customize a longer bracket from the small panel so it screws in over the cabinets?

[cpaharley2008]

Bill,
The holes are not that noticeable inside, the button covers do a great job hiding the bolt heads. I did mine last fall, it helps to have someone outside and someone inside when tightening down the bolts. Use plenty of sealant and it will seal nicely when you tighten it down. I believe I posted pictures someplace.

[cpaharley2008]

I'll post some pictures tomorrow once it stops raining.

[tractors1]

Bill, I answered your PM suggesting you make or have new brackets made with a longer base leg so the bolts thru the roof wind up inside the overhead cabinets.

[cpaharley2008]

Here my pictures, as you can see they are not that noticeable, in addition there is at least 12" of space from the bracket mount over to the cabinet. An extension would not be as secure as what is there now, so you decide.

[Rossue]

Originally Posted by bisonbill

I hate to resurrect this thread, but...
We received our solar bolt down kit late in the season last year, so I put it in the trailer and left it until spring. Today its spring and we took the cover off the trailer.

I have a 2014 21' with the smaller 95w solar panel. I opened up the box, read the directions, and realized if I install the brackets according to the instructions, the holes wouldn't be in the cabinets, but rather would be right in the middle of the unit. Four clearly visible holes in the headliner is not what I had in mind. I don't want the panel blowing off, but I also don't want the inside of the unit messed up.

Has anybody secured the solar panels another way? Anybody upgraded to the bigger panel so the holes end up in the cabinet? Anybody customize a longer bracket from the small panel so it screws in over the cabinets?

I'm glad you did as I don't want to drill holes in the roof either. See Klem's solution at post 221. That seems to me to be a sound alternative.

[bisonbill]

I was thinking of something similar to Klem's idea, where I sealed off the bottom sides from the crosswinds. Perhaps either some PVC molding or piping

[bisonbill]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Here my pictures, as you can see they are not that noticeable, in addition there is at least 12" of space from the bracket mount over to the cabinet. An extension would not be as secure as what is there now, so you decide.

Thanks for the pictures Jim. Yours don't look too bad, although I think I would still notice them.

I think I ruled out the extension bracket (subject to hearing back from ETI). The plug for the solar electric is right over the sink, and accidentally drilling a hole in that wire might be a lot worse than messing up the headliner.