power used by each appliance in 19 ft, 2011 - Page 2 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 01-31-2015, 11:45 AM   #11
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Was Radio Shack here in Canada.
Radio Shack in US, unless they've gone out of business or been re-labeled.
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Old 01-31-2015, 05:04 PM   #12
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wcf-
Thank you so much for doing this - it will be a big help for us as our estimates of usage have been only intuitive/speculative up to this point. As we suspected, the water pump is power thirsty. I am curious - is your lighting in your camper standard incandescent or are you using LEDs? In our 19 we have installed all LEDs and mostly extra brights at that. If what we have been told is true, even with ALL lights on in our camper the draw is still less than one 12v incandescent.
We just returned from our third extended trip (4 weeks) dry camping and with our 80 watt solar panel and the two six volt batteries we have never had a problem with power. If you don't have any LEDs and you get one, I'd love to see a comparison of draws between them.
Thanks again and happy camping... Ian
We have LEDs and incandescents. The latter seem to use about an amp per bulb.
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Old 06-06-2016, 04:02 PM   #13
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Does anyone know the maximum wattage the 12v outlets inside the trailer will support. Our outlet says 120 watt. We have 16AWG wire to it and I wonder what the max is on those assuming a 20 ft run.

We want to run a crock pot while dry camping and finding one below 120 watts is difficult. Whats your experience say.

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Old 06-06-2016, 07:07 PM   #14
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Does anyone know the maximum wattage the 12v outlets inside the trailer will support. Our outlet says 120 watt. We have 16AWG wire to it and I wonder what the max is on those assuming a 20 ft run.
120 watts probably assumes 12 volts, so it's a 10 amp limit. There are many ways to determine allowable current for a given wire gauge, but looking at other common practices...
10 ga -> 30 amps
12 ga -> 20 amps
14 ga -> 15 amps
... then 10 amps for 16 gauge seems reasonable.

If the limit on current for a wire is how hot its insulation can stand, then it won't matter how long the run is. If you're choosing wire gauge on the basis of how much power you can stand to lose in the wire, then you need to decide your power (or voltage) loss limit over that distance to calculate the wire gauge.

I would want heavier than 16 gauge if I were trying to get more than a couple of amps.
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Old 06-06-2016, 07:16 PM   #15
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We have LEDs and incandescents. The latter seem to use about an amp per bulb.
The most common bayonet-base bulb in RVs is the 1141, which is rated for 1.44 amp at 12 volts (so 18.4 watts); these were used in the "patio" and other outside lights before the switch to LED, and are common in interior lights (but perhaps not in an Escape). If you have wedge-base bulbs (such as the 900 series), a 912 runs about one amp (12 watts), but the 921 is a plug-in replacement and runs about the same current (and wattage) as an 1141 (about 1.4 amps).
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Old 06-07-2016, 03:36 AM   #16
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I have a 110 volt crock pot ... one listed as 140 watts @ 110v and another, little bigger, listed as 160 watts @ 110 v. They will take the shine off a couple 12 volt batteries powering an inverter for the typical recipe run time of about 8 hours or so.

My alternative is to use a dutch oven over a propane burner / BBQ. Camp Chef makes a nice 13" square (doesn't list heigth) DO.... catalog price $77.50 Lid top is flat and can be turned over to become a ribbed grill pan.

I have thought that it sure would be nice to load up a crock pot in the morning, wedge it in the sink, and head off for a drive .... dinner ready upon arrival. Such as fresh hot pulled pork sandwiches ..... mmmmmmm good!

If you try this, best check your trailer batteries voltage along the way to see if your car alternator is keeping the trailer batteries up.

Tom
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Old 06-07-2016, 06:30 AM   #17
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Forget the 12v and 120v crock pots, here are some that use -0-energy and they cook for up to 8 hours. They were discussed over on FGRV.....Thermal slo-cookers
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007DBAW5W/..._t1_B007KAYCGQ
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Old 06-07-2016, 08:51 AM   #18
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Forget the 12v and 120v crock pots, here are some that use -0-energy and they cook for up to 8 hours. They were discussed over on FGRV.....Thermal slo-cookers
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007DBAW5W/..._t1_B007KAYCGQ
We have one and it works amazingly well.
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Old 06-07-2016, 11:52 AM   #19
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I looked at a dutch oven but did not want to leave the unit on a burner while I was away from the trailer and did not want to be tied to the site. A crock pot at 160w for 5 hrs does not draw battery power down too much (in my case about 30% based on amp hrs) and the solar will charge them up again pretty fast.
The thermal cooker however seems to be the best alternative. Do the larger ones work better than the smaller ones?
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Old 06-07-2016, 02:19 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
Forget the 12v and 120v crock pots, here are some that use -0-energy and they cook for up to 8 hours. They were discussed over on FGRV.....Thermal slo-cookers
Amazon.com: Tiger Corporation NFI-A600 Non-Electric Thermal Slow Cooker 6.34qts / 6.0 L: Slow Cookers: Kitchen & Dining
It certainly isn't zero energy, but all of the energy is put in at the beginning, and by heating the inner pot and contents so you can use whatever you have for a stove... solving the long-term power supply issue. If you choose to use an electric stove (portable element or induction cooker) it will be just as much electrical energy, but I assume that most people would just use the propane stove if not on shore power.

You can heat rocks in a fire and bury your food with them, too, but this seems like a more practical way to do the same thing.
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