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Old 05-10-2011, 09:14 PM   #1
wcf
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power used by each appliance in 19 ft, 2011

Received our 2011 19ft escape end of march 2011 and have been spending some time checking things and becoming familiar with how things work and the power they use. following is a chart of my measurements for each item so i could calculate how much power i need to dry camp. our trailer has the 95 watt solar option with 2 12V 100AH AGM deep cycle batteries. I have also installed a 1000 Watt true sine wave Inverter used for my CPAP machine ( sleep Apnea).
All bulbs are 15 led bulbs. except for the range hood, nothing on bulb but holder says 10 Watt max. Math says it is 5 watt bulb
Have measured the solar panel at 5 Amps output but this depends on state of batteries, max output would be about 8 Amps on low battery.
You will notice 12V fuse I have traced the 12fuse that runs each appliance and the number is the fuse counted from top down. Note if there is a load on the fuse and it is removed or blown the corresponding red led will light. if all the 15 A fuses are removed with every thing turned off you will see which circuits have continuous loads.
NOTE: Your trailer may have different equipment or converter than the current models.
Hope this information is useful.

12 volt appliances
- master 12v switch off - 0ma
- residual unaccounted for - 14ma - probably red led from no fuse and load on circuit
- no appliances on - 76ma to 88ma - from phantom load, gas monitor, stereo

fuse 12V.......................
#2 - gas monitor - 31ma - on continuous
?? - phantom unaccounted load - 14ma - on continuous
#3 - stereo
- turned off clock only - 25ma - on continuous
- radio, min volume to max - 400ma to 800ma - switched
- cd,dvd, min to max vol. - 700ma to 1100ma - switched
#3 - tv amplifies - 25ma - switched
#1 - fridge - 0ma (only to light)
#5 - propane water heater - switched
- red light on no flame yet - 100ma
- flame lit - 430ma
- flame out up to temp - 0ma
#2 - Max Air - switched
- min speed - 150ma
- max speed - 2.385 amps
#3 - Range hood
- light incandescent - 350ma - switched
- fan (single speed) - 450ma - switched
#5 - Furnace - switched
- fan only , while cooling down - 1000ma
- fan and heat - 1.3A
#5 - Tank monitor system - 40ma - while button held
#5 - water pump - 2A - switch on then on demand
N/R - propane stove/oven - 0ma -
direct to battery - solar panel display - 4ma - hooked live to battery continuous
N/R - smoke detector - seperate 9V battery

- Lights LED
#3 - by bed - 60ma each - switched
#3 - over kitchen sink - 60ma
#3 - outside light - 60ma
#2 - by door inside - 60ma
#2 - arround table - 60ma each
#2 - washroom - 60ma

........................
120VAC All A/C reading were done with clamp on meter. Not very accurate for start current because meter responds too slow. I consider the readings relative.

- water heater 120vac option - 10A - resistive load no extra to start
- Fridge element -1.5A -185 watt element, resistive load no extra to start
- Air cond NOTE: there is no time delay on the A/C comp and wait 3 minutes before cycleing the compressor on and off by thermostat knob. It takes time for the pressure to drop so it will start. -
- fan only 3A running 5.5A to start
- fan and compressor running 8A = 960 watts
- fan and compressor start at same time 30A to start = 3600 watts
- fan running then turn up thermostat to turn on compressor 25A to start = 3000 watts
my honda 2000eu did start it but because of very cold temp did not run long before the thermostat was satisfied because i was tricking it with a heat gun, it cooled very quickly because of the cold air movent over thermostat bulb.
when summer comes will do more tests.

Hope this will help anyone who wants to calculate their power usage while dry camping.
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Old 05-10-2011, 10:01 PM   #2
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Re: power used by each appliance in 19 ft, 2011

Thanks for the info!
We tried a solar panel, but we camp in the bush/forest.
We switch to a 1,000 watt inverter generator.
Also have LED lights installed.
Thanks again Geo
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Old 05-10-2011, 10:19 PM   #3
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Re: power used by each appliance in 19 ft, 2011

wcf-
Thank you so much for doing this - it will be a big help for us as our estimates of usage have been only intuitive/speculative up to this point. As we suspected, the water pump is power thirsty. I am curious - is your lighting in your camper standard incandescent or are you using LEDs? In our 19 we have installed all LEDs and mostly extra brights at that. If what we have been told is true, even with ALL lights on in our camper the draw is still less than one 12v incandescent.
We just returned from our third extended trip (4 weeks) dry camping and with our 80 watt solar panel and the two six volt batteries we have never had a problem with power. If you don't have any LEDs and you get one, I'd love to see a comparison of draws between them.
Thanks again and happy camping... Ian
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Old 05-11-2011, 04:14 AM   #4
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Re: power used by each appliance in 19 ft, 2011

Eddys
Yes we have all led lighting. there is only one incandescent bulb in the trailer that is the range hood, notice it draws 350ma and not very bright compared to the 15 led bulb which only draws 60ma and gives much more light.
I will post the type of incandescent bulb latter and will do some power draws on the A/C with my 2000 EU Honda generator, initial tests show that it will start it. I havent done a lot of tests because it is so cold here and because of the type of A/C it will not turn on untill the thermostat warms up i used a heat gun to trick it for the initial test.
I will edit my initial post with a bit more info.


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Old 05-11-2011, 07:38 AM   #5
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Re: power used by each appliance in 19 ft, 2011

Hi: wcf... But... but... but, have you taken her out for a shakedown cruise yet Thanks for the insite to consumption too.
Instead of the CPAP I chose to buy a dental device that I wear at night...kinda like a mouth guard for football except it is adjustable to keep your lower jaw from falling in, to close your airway. No power required but it does complicate a good night kiss Alf
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Old 05-11-2011, 11:24 AM   #6
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Re: power used by each appliance in 19 ft, 2011

note
I have added some 120V info to the chart above.


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Old 05-12-2011, 05:19 PM   #7
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Re: power used by each appliance in 19 ft, 2011

found something else that drawa power the TV amplifier. Draws 25ma when switched on, small black push button by cable connections.A green led will light when drawing power. on fuse #3. I did not have a tv connected for this measurement, but it should not draw more with one connected. I was testing out the bed when i noticed it

I have added this to the chart above.

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Old 12-14-2013, 03:45 PM   #8
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Has anyone installed a 12 volt exterior outlet or is that standard?
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Old 12-14-2013, 05:35 PM   #9
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Not standard, unless something has changed.
The exterior 12V is different because it has to keep water out.
I was going to get one installed ( after purchase ), but I settled on 12V extension cords from "The Source". I just run the cord out the window or door as required. The cords are really cheap.
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Old 01-31-2015, 11:18 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
Not standard, unless something has changed.
The exterior 12V is different because it has to keep water out.
I was going to get one installed ( after purchase ), but I settled on 12V extension cords from "The Source". I just run the cord out the window or door as required. The cords are really cheap.
What is "The Source" ?

Thank You for your info.

uw
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Old 01-31-2015, 11:45 AM   #11
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Was Radio Shack here in Canada.
Radio Shack in US, unless they've gone out of business or been re-labeled.
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Old 01-31-2015, 05:04 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddys View Post
wcf-
Thank you so much for doing this - it will be a big help for us as our estimates of usage have been only intuitive/speculative up to this point. As we suspected, the water pump is power thirsty. I am curious - is your lighting in your camper standard incandescent or are you using LEDs? In our 19 we have installed all LEDs and mostly extra brights at that. If what we have been told is true, even with ALL lights on in our camper the draw is still less than one 12v incandescent.
We just returned from our third extended trip (4 weeks) dry camping and with our 80 watt solar panel and the two six volt batteries we have never had a problem with power. If you don't have any LEDs and you get one, I'd love to see a comparison of draws between them.
Thanks again and happy camping... Ian
We have LEDs and incandescents. The latter seem to use about an amp per bulb.
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Old 06-06-2016, 04:02 PM   #13
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Does anyone know the maximum wattage the 12v outlets inside the trailer will support. Our outlet says 120 watt. We have 16AWG wire to it and I wonder what the max is on those assuming a 20 ft run.

We want to run a crock pot while dry camping and finding one below 120 watts is difficult. Whats your experience say.

John
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Old 06-06-2016, 07:07 PM   #14
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Does anyone know the maximum wattage the 12v outlets inside the trailer will support. Our outlet says 120 watt. We have 16AWG wire to it and I wonder what the max is on those assuming a 20 ft run.
120 watts probably assumes 12 volts, so it's a 10 amp limit. There are many ways to determine allowable current for a given wire gauge, but looking at other common practices...
10 ga -> 30 amps
12 ga -> 20 amps
14 ga -> 15 amps
... then 10 amps for 16 gauge seems reasonable.

If the limit on current for a wire is how hot its insulation can stand, then it won't matter how long the run is. If you're choosing wire gauge on the basis of how much power you can stand to lose in the wire, then you need to decide your power (or voltage) loss limit over that distance to calculate the wire gauge.

I would want heavier than 16 gauge if I were trying to get more than a couple of amps.
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Old 06-06-2016, 07:16 PM   #15
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We have LEDs and incandescents. The latter seem to use about an amp per bulb.
The most common bayonet-base bulb in RVs is the 1141, which is rated for 1.44 amp at 12 volts (so 18.4 watts); these were used in the "patio" and other outside lights before the switch to LED, and are common in interior lights (but perhaps not in an Escape). If you have wedge-base bulbs (such as the 900 series), a 912 runs about one amp (12 watts), but the 921 is a plug-in replacement and runs about the same current (and wattage) as an 1141 (about 1.4 amps).
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Old 06-07-2016, 03:36 AM   #16
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I have a 110 volt crock pot ... one listed as 140 watts @ 110v and another, little bigger, listed as 160 watts @ 110 v. They will take the shine off a couple 12 volt batteries powering an inverter for the typical recipe run time of about 8 hours or so.

My alternative is to use a dutch oven over a propane burner / BBQ. Camp Chef makes a nice 13" square (doesn't list heigth) DO.... catalog price $77.50 Lid top is flat and can be turned over to become a ribbed grill pan.

I have thought that it sure would be nice to load up a crock pot in the morning, wedge it in the sink, and head off for a drive .... dinner ready upon arrival. Such as fresh hot pulled pork sandwiches ..... mmmmmmm good!

If you try this, best check your trailer batteries voltage along the way to see if your car alternator is keeping the trailer batteries up.

Tom
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Old 06-07-2016, 06:30 AM   #17
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Forget the 12v and 120v crock pots, here are some that use -0-energy and they cook for up to 8 hours. They were discussed over on FGRV.....Thermal slo-cookers
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007DBAW5W/..._t1_B007KAYCGQ
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Old 06-07-2016, 08:51 AM   #18
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Forget the 12v and 120v crock pots, here are some that use -0-energy and they cook for up to 8 hours. They were discussed over on FGRV.....Thermal slo-cookers
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007DBAW5W/..._t1_B007KAYCGQ
We have one and it works amazingly well.
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Old 06-07-2016, 11:52 AM   #19
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I looked at a dutch oven but did not want to leave the unit on a burner while I was away from the trailer and did not want to be tied to the site. A crock pot at 160w for 5 hrs does not draw battery power down too much (in my case about 30% based on amp hrs) and the solar will charge them up again pretty fast.
The thermal cooker however seems to be the best alternative. Do the larger ones work better than the smaller ones?
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Old 06-07-2016, 02:19 PM   #20
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Forget the 12v and 120v crock pots, here are some that use -0-energy and they cook for up to 8 hours. They were discussed over on FGRV.....Thermal slo-cookers
Amazon.com: Tiger Corporation NFI-A600 Non-Electric Thermal Slow Cooker 6.34qts / 6.0 L: Slow Cookers: Kitchen & Dining
It certainly isn't zero energy, but all of the energy is put in at the beginning, and by heating the inner pot and contents so you can use whatever you have for a stove... solving the long-term power supply issue. If you choose to use an electric stove (portable element or induction cooker) it will be just as much electrical energy, but I assume that most people would just use the propane stove if not on shore power.

You can heat rocks in a fire and bury your food with them, too, but this seems like a more practical way to do the same thing.
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