Received our 2011 19ft escape end of march 2011 and have been spending some time checking things and becoming familiar with how things work and the power they use. following is a chart of my measurements for each item so i could calculate how much power i need to dry camp. our trailer has the 95 watt solar option with 2 12V 100AH AGM deep cycle batteries. I have also installed a 1000 Watt true sine wave Inverter used for my CPAP machine ( sleep Apnea).
All bulbs are 15 led bulbs. except for the range hood, nothing on bulb but holder says 10 Watt max. Math says it is 5 watt bulb
Have measured the solar panel at 5 Amps output but this depends on state of batteries, max output would be about 8 Amps on low battery.
You will notice 12V fuse I have traced the 12fuse that runs each appliance and the number is the fuse counted from top down. Note if there is a load on the fuse and it is removed or blown the corresponding red led will light. if all the 15 A fuses are removed with every thing turned off you will see which circuits have continuous loads.
NOTE: Your trailer may have different equipment or converter than the current models.
Hope this information is useful.
12 volt appliances
- master 12v switch off - 0ma
- residual unaccounted for - 14ma - probably red led from no fuse and load on circuit
- no appliances on - 76ma to 88ma - from phantom load, gas monitor, stereo
#2 - gas monitor - 31ma - on continuous
?? - phantom unaccounted load - 14ma - on continuous
#3 - stereo
- turned off clock only - 25ma - on continuous
- radio, min volume to max - 400ma to 800ma - switched
- cd,dvd, min to max vol. - 700ma to 1100ma - switched
#3 - tv amplifies - 25ma - switched
#1 - fridge - 0ma (only to light)
#5 - propane water heater - switched
- red light on no flame yet - 100ma
- flame lit - 430ma
- flame out up to temp - 0ma
#2 - Max Air - switched
- min speed - 150ma
- max speed - 2.385 amps
#3 - Range hood
- light incandescent
- 350ma - switched
- fan (single speed) - 450ma - switched
#5 - Furnace - switched
- fan only , while cooling down - 1000ma
- fan and heat - 1.3A
#5 - Tank monitor system - 40ma - while button held
#5 - water pump - 2A - switch on then on demand
N/R - propane stove/oven - 0ma -
direct to battery - solar panel display - 4ma - hooked live to battery continuous
N/R - smoke detector - seperate 9V battery
- Lights LED
#3 - by bed - 60ma each - switched
#3 - over kitchen sink - 60ma
#3 - outside light - 60ma
#2 - by door inside - 60ma
#2 - arround table - 60ma each
#2 - washroom - 60ma
120VAC All A/C reading were done with clamp on meter. Not very accurate for start current because meter responds too slow. I consider the readings relative.
- water heater 120vac option - 10A - resistive load no extra to start
- Fridge element -1.5A -185 watt element, resistive load no extra to start
- Air cond NOTE: there is no time delay on the A/C comp and wait 3 minutes before cycleing the compressor on and off by thermostat knob. It takes time for the pressure to drop so it will start.
- fan only 3A running 5.5A to start
- fan and compressor running 8A = 960 watts
- fan and compressor start at same time 30A to start = 3600 watts
- fan running then turn up thermostat to turn on compressor 25A to start = 3000 watts
my honda 2000eu did start it but because of very cold temp did not run long before the thermostat was satisfied because i was tricking it with a heat gun, it cooled very quickly because of the cold air movent over thermostat bulb.
when summer comes will do more tests.
Hope this will help anyone who wants to calculate their power usage while dry camping.