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Old 03-29-2019, 08:28 PM   #81
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Just finished my install of the Progressive Dynamic Wildcat converter board. Pretty easy except for as Dave (rubicon) threading DC wires behind the DC board. Thanks to all who contributed to this thread. It made it easy for me to solve my charging problems.
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Old 03-30-2019, 08:45 AM   #82
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Okay, seems like several owners have switched. Will this upgrade take care of the MaxxFan issue with the fluctuating 12v currents.....?
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Old 03-30-2019, 12:52 PM   #83
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Okay, seems like several owners have switched. Will this upgrade take care of the MaxxFan issue with the fluctuating 12v currents.....?
No. This is the converter piece taking 120 VAC and changing it to DC (max 14.4V) using it to simultaneously run electronics and charge the battery when on shore power or generator. The other part of the equation is if you have a solar system and run high voltages. This unit does nothing for that and all onboard devices are exposed to it.
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Old 03-30-2019, 02:18 PM   #84
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Thanks for clarifying the issue, back to the drawing board....
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Old 04-14-2019, 04:18 PM   #85
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I completed the Wildkat swap also. I am a bit embarrassed to admit it took me more than an hour from start to finish though. Must be the cool weather and not anything to do with my mechanical aptitude.

While in the box I also checked the factory terminations and all were tight!
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Old 01-17-2020, 09:18 AM   #86
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rubicon327
thanks to your write-up and photos here, I got mine installed no problem. Appreciate the help
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Old 12-29-2021, 09:48 AM   #87
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Rubicon,

I am upgrading my WFCO 8955 in my 2017 21C like you did in your trailer to the Wildkat 4655L. I noticed in your pictures, that the WFCO circuit board has the DC wires on the right side and the Progressive Dynamics on the left side. Were the DC wires on the Wildkat long enough to make it to the distribution panel without having to add a section of wire?

Also, did you upgrade the circuit breaker or add a fuse when making this updgrade? Part of the reason I ask, is that I am upgrading to Battle Born LifePo4 batteries and expect the PD converter to send about 50A to the batteries, instead of the much lower output of the WFCO.

Thanks.

Dan
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Old 12-29-2021, 09:54 AM   #88
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Originally Posted by Flyfisherdan View Post
Rubicon,

I am upgrading my WFCO 8955 in my 2017 21C like you did in your trailer to the Wildkat 4655L. I noticed in your pictures, that the WFCO circuit board has the DC wires on the right side and the Progressive Dynamics on the left side. Were the DC wires on the Wildkat long enough to make it to the distribution panel without having to add a section of wire?

Also, did you upgrade the circuit breaker or add a fuse when making this updgrade? Part of the reason I ask, is that I am upgrading to Battle Born LifePo4 batteries and expect the PD converter to send about 50A to the batteries, instead of the much lower output of the WFCO.

Thanks.

Dan
I did mine last summer before I sold the trailer, all the wires reached just fine. It was a 30 minute job.
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Old 12-29-2021, 10:41 AM   #89
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Rubicon,

I am upgrading my WFCO 8955 in my 2017 21C like you did in your trailer to the Wildkat 4655L. I noticed in your pictures, that the WFCO circuit board has the DC wires on the right side and the Progressive Dynamics on the left side. Were the DC wires on the Wildkat long enough to make it to the distribution panel without having to add a section of wire?

Also, did you upgrade the circuit breaker or add a fuse when making this updgrade? Part of the reason I ask, is that I am upgrading to Battle Born LifePo4 batteries and expect the PD converter to send about 50A to the batteries, instead of the much lower output of the WFCO.

Dan: Yes, the wiring leads reach just fine without modification as oldwave indicated.

I did two series of upgrades but you have a much newer trailer so you will need to examine your wiring and determine exactly what you need. FWIW for me Phase 1 was to upgrade the main wiring from battery to power center to 6AWG, upgrade the disconnect switch, add a 60A fuse close to the battery and remove an (undersized) 30A auto reset fuse from the circuit. Phase 2 was the addition of a Xantrex Freedom XC combination inverter/charger/transfer switch, sub panel, battery monitor and a 400AH Bestgo lithium battery.

There have been other threads on this for folks moving to lithium but if someone is looking for a "simple swap" to replace lead acid with lithium in a newer trailer you need to consider at a minimum:
-Proper wiring size and fusing between batteries and converter/charger
-Verifying there are no undersized auto reset fuses in the circuit (a few owners have reported them still being used)
-Disconnect tow vehicle charging or add DC-DC charger on the charge line
-Make sure that solar controller (if equipped) and 120V charger are compatible and set appropriate for lithium
-I recommend a good battery monitor so you know your SOC at a glance and can see how many amps are going into and out of the battery

Right now my 55A PD WildKat converter/charger is offline as charging is done with the Xantrex but if you would like I can bring it online (simple flip of dedicated breaker) and see how much amperage is going to the batttery using my Victron battery monitor. Battery should take a bulk charge as it's sitting at ~60% SOC in storage. Let me know if this would be helpful.
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Old 12-29-2021, 11:04 AM   #90
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I am upgrading my WFCO 8955 in my 2017 21C like you did in your trailer to the Wildkat 4655L.
I should have added that the WildKat goes to a constant 14.6V when the jumper is moved to lithium. They don't do a good job explaining it on the website or manual. Double check that this is going to be adequate to properly maintain your BB batteries. It is likely not ideal.
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Old 12-29-2021, 02:36 PM   #91
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Thanks guys for your help.

I am planning to make all the upgrades you mentioned Rubicon. The only question I have is, whether it is necessary to install both a 60A breaker & a 60 A fuse, or will one or the other be sufficient?

Dan
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Old 12-29-2021, 03:12 PM   #92
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Thanks guys for your help.

I am planning to make all the upgrades you mentioned Rubicon. The only question I have is, whether it is necessary to install both a 60A breaker & a 60 A fuse, or will one or the other be sufficient?
Got a little crazy with my reply but didn't want you to miss something. If you mean on the wiring between the battery and the DC board you should only need one or the other. I used a 60A Maxi fuse but I can't see why you couldn't use a 60A breaker. The advantage of the breaker is it also acts as a shutoff switch.
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Old 12-29-2021, 05:13 PM   #93
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That is what I thought. I am planning to install a 60A breaker and call it good.

FYI-I spoke with Dennis (sr tech) at Progressive Dynamics as well as a tech at Battle Born the other day. Dennis confirmed that the 4655L Wildkat charges at a constant 14.6V and does not go into float. The tech at Battle Born said that constant voltage charging is not an issue for periods less than 2-4 weeks. Since we Boondook almost exclusively, this shouldn't be an issue.

Thanks again for your tips. I will tackle this project in the spring. A little too cold in MT right now (currently a high of 5 today!).

Dan
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Old 12-29-2021, 09:12 PM   #94
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for long term storage of lithium batteries, you actually want to discharge them to 50-70% state of charge, then recharge them before the next use.
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Old 12-31-2021, 02:59 PM   #95
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Richard,

I am upgrading the WFCO 8955 to a Wildkat 4655L soon. Curious if there was any trick to disconnecting the DC board?

Thanks.

Dan
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Old 12-31-2021, 03:41 PM   #96
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Richard,

I am upgrading the WFCO 8955 to a Wildkat 4655L soon. Curious if there was any trick to disconnecting the DC board?

Thanks.

Dan
Not too hard , undo the captive screws paying attention to the dc polarity as the wire colors are different. I think the dc fuse board clicks out of its mount a bit if I remember, attach the new wires and click it back in. The hardest part was crawling on the floor.
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