Progressive Dynamics 14.8v Charging Rate

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

...and cleaner DC power filtering with no more flickering lights.

I did the converter upgrade, but never had a problem with flickering. I’m curious how prevalent this issue really is. Has anyone had this problem with the stock WFCO unit?

[gbaglo]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

I did the converter upgrade, but never had a problem with flickering. I’m curious how prevalent this issue really is. Has anyone had this problem with the stock WFCO unit?

Nope.
But then, I don't have issues with anything else either. Didn't have lights at all in my tent trailer.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

I did the converter upgrade, but never had a problem with flickering. I’m curious how prevalent this issue really is.

Dave, do you have LED lights? LEDs will respond more quickly and make flicker more noticeable than incandescents. Just a thought...

[Iowa Dave]

Hi Glenn
Last time I commented on the luxury of Escape camping as compared to other more primitive forms somebody got mad at me. It gave me a complex. I had to get counseling from one of my daughters, the psychologist. Man, ain’t camping with an Escapes better than the old days? There, I feel better.
Iowa Dave

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

Dave, do you have LED lights? LEDs will respond more quickly and make flicker more noticeable than incandescents. Just a thought...

Yes, all high quality LED’s. I’m curious if cheap LED’s cause problems and it’s really not the converter at all?

(I’m not questioning the converter upgrade. Obviously I did the swap, just not for the reason at hand.)

[gbaglo]

My LEDs were installed one or two at a time ( didn't come standard in 2008 ). I've replaced bulbs according to which lights get used the most, and I still have two or three incandescent. Have noticed no flickering, but I didn't buy cheap bulbs off the web. Got them at ETI over the years.

[Rossue]

Ours flicker, never use shore power and thus converter as we have Solar. Seem to remember when this happens you are supposed to remove the bulb and take a pencil eraser to the contacts.

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by Rossue

Ours flicker, never use shore power and thus converter as we have Solar. Seem to remember when this happens you are supposed to remove the bulb and take a pencil eraser to the contacts.

Yep, if it's an individual fixture that is flickering, it's usually caused by the bulb contacts. But, if it's all the lights, that's a sign that the power isn't clean coming in - something that a better converter with better DC power filtering can address.

[Rossue]

Haven't heard of all lights flickering....is that your experience?

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by Rossue

Haven't heard of all lights flickering....is that your experience?

Not mine Ross, but it is a common problem. I'd say it's more common with the Parallax/MagnaTek than the WFCO, but it has happened with all of the cheaper ones. Sometimes it's just loose wiring or corrosion, but it can be the fault of the converter.

Take a look at the differences in the boards and the heat sinks in the photos of the WFCO vs the PD in the earlier posts, and it's not hard to see why.

[Rossue]

Ok, however replacing or upgrading my WFCO makes no sense to me as it is a very rare occasion that we use shore power.

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by Rossue

Ok, however replacing or upgrading my WFCO makes no sense to me as it is a very rare occasion that we use shore power.

While you may not use shore power very much, 12V power from the converter is being supplied to the trailer regardless. The items that use power aren't directly connected to the batteries (except the power jack in my case). So, a better converter still has benefits, even when boondocking. Also, if you plug in to shore power when the trailer is stored (as I do) in order to keep the batteries up, the periodic equalization cycle could mean longer battery life by eliminating stratification.

[Rossue]

Ah, so again, except for those needing shore power at any time to charge batteries then any upgrade to the stock converter isn't high on the list. It would be nice though for ETI to offer a better converter as an option.

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by Rossue

It would be nice though for ETI to offer a better converter as an option.

I agree, but it's surprising how few suitable choices there are when it comes to power centers with 4 cycle charging, the right amperage and the right size enclosure. Even PD, who makes the replacement board in question, only makes one power center of similar size, power and branch circuit capacity as the WFCO - the Mighty Mini 4000.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Rossue

Ours flicker, never use shore power and thus converter as we have Solar. Seem to remember when this happens you are supposed to remove the bulb and take a pencil eraser to the contacts.

Our Escape leds flicker one at a time . Just have removed and cleaned contacts until they start flickering again . Boondocking or shore power . Pat

[Rossue]

If it is really that big of a deal then if ETI wants to be the "cut above" or a World Class FG Mfg then maybe they should.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

While you may not use shore power very much, 12V power from the converter is being supplied to the trailer regardless. The items that use power aren't directly connected to the batteries (except the power jack in my case).

Sure they are... although of course through the fuse panel. You could remove the converter entirely from the WFCO power center and the path of current flow (and the voltage at any point) would be exactly the same as simply having the converter off (either turned off, or unplugged from shore power). Power is going through the DC side of the power centre, but not supplied by the converter part of it and not going through the converter.

Originally Posted by rbryan4

So, a better converter still has benefits, even when boondocking.

A better fuse panel might be good (if there is anything wrong with the WFCO panel... and I've never heard of any concerns), but the version of the Progressive Dynamics retrofit which retains the original "DC board" leaves that WFCO fuse panel in place. The only reason that other versions of the retrofit change the DC board is to provide a jack for the Charge Wizard dongle. How would a converter which isn't even powered affect boondocking? There's probably capacitance connected to the output which would smooth DC power a bit, but that's nothing compared to the enormous battery, right?

[rbryan4]

Yeah, you're right Brian now that I think of it. Even the DC filtering is part of the MBA, so it wouldn't have any effect unless the board was powered. Now a new power center might affect both, but of course that's not what's installed here.

[Patandlinda]

A weird thing happened with the led lights on our Christmas tree . We had a switch to turn off the lights ,they dimmed but they were still lighted . Until we totally unplugged the lights they weren't totally off . Pat

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

Sometimes the guys at Escape miss a few. It's a good idea to check ALL your connections as soon as you get your trailer to catch the ones they miss. I found a loose connection that was missed in the breaker box for the inverter (screw in ground bar sticking out more than the rest in pic below). Only took a minute to fix but I had outlets without a ground because of it.

Speaking of connections don't forget the DC board fuse holders as well. I would wiggle each fuse and make sure they are seated well. When I was working on the converter upgrade I noticed the two 40 amp battery protection fuses were quite loose. A light squeeze of the fuse holder prongs with needle nose pliers fixed that.