Progressive Dynamics 14.8v Charging Rate

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

I agree, but it's surprising how few suitable choices there are when it comes to power centers with 4 cycle charging, the right amperage and the right size enclosure. Even PD, who makes the replacement board in question, only makes one power center of similar size, power and branch circuit capacity as the WFCO - the Mighty Mini 4000.

Originally Posted by Rossue

If it is really that big of a deal then if ETI wants to be the "cut above" or a World Class FG Mfg then maybe they should.

I just checked and Oliver is using the Progressive Dynamics Mighty Mini power center. For the small cost difference it seems a viable option, but there may be other reasons ETI sticks with the WFCO. One reason may be the ability to package the WFCO T-30 transfer switch option neatly on the back rails for those getting the inverter option that serves all outlets. Oliver has a similar option too, but must just mount an external transfer switch.

The good news is that at least by a specs comparison with the PD4655LMBA WildKat main board upgrade we have essentially a functional equivalent to the Mighty Mini. This unfortunately is at the cost that is more than a whole new converter (without breakers) when looking at retail pricing.

[almost born canadian]

Can anyone comment on the quality of charge provided from the tow vehicle, through the standard ETI converter, to the single 12v Interstate battery? I wonder how many amps are charging the trailer battery while we are driving down the highway. I read my manual for the WFCO Ultra III Distribution Center and did not find the information. Is the rate of charge provided sufficient to re-charge a partially discharged battery after camping without shore power or solar. etc.
Thanks much.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by almost born canadian

Can anyone comment on the quality of charge provided from the tow vehicle, through the standard ETI converter, to the single 12v Interstate battery? I wonder how many amps are charging the trailer battery while we are driving down the highway. I read my manual for the WFCO Ultra III Distribution Center and did not find the information.

The converter/charger in the WFCO Power Center can provide up to 55 amps when plugged into shore power; how much current flows depends on the battery and the state of charge of the battery (and resistance in the wiring).

The Power Center has no control of the amount of current going to the battery from the tow vehicle - that's why the manual doesn't say anything about it. The current which will flow when charging from the tow vehicle will depend on the voltage supplied by the tow vehicle's charging system, the battery and its state of charge, and resistance in the wiring. Since there is a long run of small-gauge wire between the vehicle's charging system and the trailer's battery, the charging current is usually pretty low - much lower than what the converter/charger can provide when on shore power.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by almost born canadian

Can anyone comment on the quality of charge provided from the tow vehicle, through the standard ETI converter, to the single 12v Interstate battery? I wonder how many amps are charging the trailer battery while we are driving down the highway. I read my manual for the WFCO Ultra III Distribution Center and did not find the information. Is the rate of charge provided sufficient to re-charge a partially discharged battery after camping without shore power or solar. etc.
Thanks much.

The power from the vehicle 7 pin does not route through the WFCO power center to charge the battery. There are a multitude of variables that come into play when relying on the tow vehicle to charge a battery. Tow vehicle alternator, power line wire gauge, how long you are driving, etc. To know the exact amps you would need to measure it. If you are serious about charging from your tow vehicle I would suggest you consider a DC to DC charger.

[gbaglo]

All I can advise is that when Reace and I were discussing 3-way fridge versus 2-way fridge, he told me that if I was camping and depleted my battery, if I were to use 12V to run the fridge while traveling, I would arrive with a depleted battery. The vehicle would not be able to charge the trailer house battery and to run the fridge at the same time. I opted for 2-way fridge.
I have two 40 watt solar panels and a Honda 1000i generator. With my power usage, I no longer bring the generator with me. The solar panels are enough.


My RAV4 has a heavy duty alternator and 10# 7-pin wiring. It appears to recharge the battery well enough, but it would depend how far you travel.

[sunrisetrucker]

As others have mentioned the charge rate can very greatly from vehicle to vehicle. For example when I tow my 17b using my 2016 Canyon with the factory tow package it will charge a low battery (60%) very quickly. But my 2010 Santa fe will take much longer.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Rossue

Ours flicker, never use shore power and thus converter as we have Solar. Seem to remember when this happens you are supposed to remove the bulb and take a pencil eraser to the contacts.

Hi Ross . Have had flickering from day one and that has been our fix , to remove , clean contacts and reinstall . Pat

[MikeS]

I'm considering swapping out the the converter. What is the general consensus for disconnecting prior to the swap. I'm assuming beyond being unplugged from 120 and disconnecting the battery it wouldn't be a terrible idea to cover the solar panels? Flip the breakers also? Anything else?

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by MikeS

I'm considering swapping out the the converter. What is the general consensus for disconnecting prior to the swap. I'm assuming beyond being unplugged from 120 and disconnecting the battery it wouldn't be a terrible idea to cover the solar panels? Flip the breakers also? Anything else?

To disconnect the battery from the converter and fuse panel you only need to flip the storage switch. In most cases (check with a meter) that will also disconnect the solar charge controller output from the converter and fuse panel.

You don't even really need to unplug from 120 V AC power; you can just flip off the breaker which feeds the converter... but since the converter is in the same box as the breaker panel, unplugging from AC power is a better idea, and you might as well turn off the main breaker as well. With the main breaker off, there's no reason to turn off the other breakers.

[MikeS]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

To disconnect the battery from the converter and fuse panel you only need to flip the storage switch. In most cases (check with a meter) that will also disconnect the solar charge controller output from the converter and fuse panel.

You don't even really need to unplug from 120 V AC power; you can just flip off the breaker which feeds the converter... but since the converter is in the same box as the breaker panel, unplugging from AC power is a better idea, and you might as well turn off the main breaker as well. With the main breaker off, there's no reason to turn off the other breakers.

Thanks Brian. I may be fuzzy on the memory but I would swear the overhead lights were still working when I flipped the storage switch so I was skeptical it really cut most/all power. I will check that again in the next couple of days to verify.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by MikeS

I may be fuzzy on the memory but I would swear the overhead lights were still working when I flipped the storage switch so I was skeptical it really cut most/all power. I will check that again in the next couple of days to verify.

The lights would have still worked if you were on shore power, using the converter.

[MikeS]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

The lights would have still worked if you were on shore power, using the converter.

Yeah, it's possible I was plugged, but I didn't think so. No sense speculating as it will be easy enough to check in a day or two when I'm at the storage unit.

[sclifrickson]

Originally Posted by MikeS

I'm considering swapping out the the converter. What is the general consensus for disconnecting prior to the swap. I'm assuming beyond being unplugged from 120 and disconnecting the battery it wouldn't be a terrible idea to cover the solar panels? Flip the breakers also? Anything else?

Regarding the solar panels, you should either cover them or disconnect them from the solar controller, assuming that you are going to disconnect the solar controller output from the batteries in one way or another. You should generally avoid having your panels supply power to the controller if the controller is not hooked up to the batteries, as many controllers will fry from the input if it has nowhere to go as output.

[MikeS]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

The lights would have still worked if you were on shore power, using the converter.

To follow up on this post, I was at our storage unit over the weekend and verified that even with shore power off and the battery/storage switch flipped to off I still had full 12 power. Overhead lights stayed on, the 12v/USB outlets were lit up.

Looks like I have some more investigating to do.

[cpaharley2008]

Perhaps the master disconnect switch is reversed.....?

[MikeS]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Perhaps the master disconnect switch is reversed.....?

That was my first thought, but then I shouldn't have power in the other position and I do. I'm now wondering if its a wire termination issue. Now that is is starting to warm up I will have to trace the wires and see what I can see. When its cold and no heat going that Escape floor is cold even with the foam!

[MikeS]

Originally Posted by MikeS

To follow up on this post, I was at our storage unit over the weekend and verified that even with shore power off and the battery/storage switch flipped to off I still had full 12 power. Overhead lights stayed on, the 12v/USB outlets were lit up.

Looks like I have some more investigating to do.

Turns out the switch can be finicky! It required pushing it in and jiggling it a few times while turning on and off. Now it works fine.

[Greg A]

They're not the best switches. I'd replace it with something more robust as many have done over the years.

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by Greg A

They're not the best switches. I'd replace it with something more robust as many have done over the years.

This one works well. This is used by a lot of Escape owners to replace that pesky switch they come with. Your'e not going to "accidentally" turn this one off.

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Batt...5M2YKSE6VF1XVE

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

This one works well. This is used by a lot of Escape owners to replace that pesky switch they come with. Your'e not going to "accidentally" turn this one off.

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Batt...5M2YKSE6VF1XVE

Also available in black which would be my preference inside our trailers.

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/blue-...RoCh1UQAvD_BwE