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Old 10-15-2017, 02:49 PM   #1
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Propane leak at the tank connection

What might be a possible solution to a leaking pigtail connection short of replacement. Visual inspection looks normal. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Allan
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Old 10-15-2017, 03:01 PM   #2
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What might be a possible solution to a leaking pigtail connection short of replacement. Visual inspection looks normal. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Allan
Is the threaded connection leaking or the hose itself? Check with liquid soap. They make a special stuff for leak checking. Available from home improvement or hardware stores. Dish soap diluted will work too. Look for bubbling. If its threaded connection then try tightening. If that doesn't work then unscrew and use pipe dope or yellow teflon tape and reconnect. If it is the hose or crimp fitting then replace.
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Old 10-15-2017, 03:15 PM   #3
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Take the pigtail off. Carefully clean any sealant or any "teflon tape" out of the threads with a tip of a pen knife blade or ice pick. Easy does it. Do the same on the receiving threads in the regulator. Re wrap the threads on the pigtail about four turns of gas grade tape. PTFE. Screw back in , turn on tank, Check for leaks. If it still leaks, buy a new pogtail. Rarely it can be the regulator threads. If so buy a new one, they aren't that much. I am assuming your leak is at the regulator. If it's at the tank end and not a bad tank valve, buy a new pigtail. YMMV. Don't skimp on safety items, it isn't worth it. Salis populi suprema lex.
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Old 10-15-2017, 05:11 PM   #4
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What might be a possible solution to a leaking pigtail connection short of replacement. Visual inspection looks normal. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Allan
We had a leak at the pigtail almost from day one . No matter what I did it went back to leaking . Finally changed out the regulator and both pig tails a year ago . No more problems since . Pat
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Old 10-15-2017, 05:39 PM   #5
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What might be a possible solution to a leaking pigtail connection short of replacement. Visual inspection looks normal. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Allan
There is also a small "O" ring located on the tank valve, this is what the pigtail fitting seals against. If this gets damaged there can be a leak which might appear to be coming from the pigtail itself. Rotating the pigtail fitting once its sealed against the "O" ring on the tank will cause tearing of the "O" ring.
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Old 10-15-2017, 05:56 PM   #6
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There is also a small "O" ring located on the tank valve, this is what the pigtail fitting seals against. If this gets damaged there can be a leak which might appear to be coming from the pigtail itself. Rotating the pigtail fitting once its sealed against the "O" ring on the tank will cause tearing of the "O" ring.
I changed out the O ring etc. It looked like the pigtails were cross threaded . The regulator just needed changing . Everything was new and I hate to replace if I can fix but I just gave up and changed out everything and have not had a issue since . Pat
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Old 10-15-2017, 07:15 PM   #7
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We had a propane odor near front of trailer. Soapy water indicated it was the crimp fittings on the pigtails at the regulator connection. Bought new ones and problem solved, but your trailer is much newer so i’d check all the fittings first and nail down the problem. The Mr. Heater pigtails are more expensive but are better made. You’ll see how they do the full brass crimp fitting versus the small ring on the cheaper ones.

By the way these pigtails needed a small adaptor fitting because our regulator accepts a 1/4” male NPT, not 1/4” inverted flare. It looks like it depends on the regulator. Some accept the inverted flare on the pigtails directly so you might not need it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-59953-P...EKQCBEMQ8X6Z2Y

Grab some of the yellow PTFE pipe thread tape too.
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Old 10-15-2017, 07:22 PM   #8
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We had a propane odor near front of trailer. Soapy water indicated it was the crimp fittings on the pigtails at the regulator connection. Bought new ones and problem solved, but your trailer is much newer so i’d check all the fittings first and nail down the problem. The Mr. Heater pigtails are more expensive but are better made. You’ll see how they do the full brass crimp fitting versus the small ring on the cheaper ones.

By the way these pigtails needed a small adaptor fitting because our regulator accepts a 1/4” male NPT, not 1/4” inverted flare. It looks like it depends on the regulator. Some accept the inverted flare on the pigtails directly so you might not need it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-59953-P...EKQCBEMQ8X6Z2Y

Grab some of the yellow PTFE pipe thread tape too.
Dave didn't know about Mr. heater pigtails but that is what we bought Pat
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Old 10-15-2017, 08:59 PM   #9
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Allan, which end of the hose is leaking? The connection at the tank and the connection at the regulator are very different, so the solution would be different.

As for threaded fittings... tapered pipe threads and flare fittings are entirely different. Only tapered pipe threads use a sealant (such as tape or dope). Make sure you clearly understand which one you are dealing with.
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Old 10-15-2017, 09:05 PM   #10
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By the way these pigtails needed a small adaptor fitting because our regulator accepts a 1/4” male NPT, not 1/4” inverted flare. It looks like it depends on the regulator. Some accept the inverted flare on the pigtails directly so you might not need it.
I think all regulators have female 1/4" pipe thread inlet ports; some just come with the adapter to inverted flare, and others don't. Pigtails are available with either inverted flare ends or with male NPT to go directly into the regulator port; I would always use inverted flare to make future pigtail replacement easier.
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Old 10-16-2017, 08:20 PM   #11
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Many thanks for all of the input. I am all but certain that the leak is from the tank connection. The idea of a damaged O ring seems to be worth checking out. Has anyone replaced such an item.

Allan
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Old 10-16-2017, 09:03 PM   #12
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Tank gasket

I had a leaky gasket on an older tank that had been recertified. I think the fill nozzle must have been rough when I got it refilled and galled the gasket. I could not find a replacement O ring at the hardware or propane dealer. In their defense it was an older tank and not a worthington so I turned it in and got a newer tank as a trade in. Did not go back to "Guppy's" for any more fills.
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Old 09-04-2019, 09:50 AM   #13
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Propane Pigtail Replacement Question

Quote from post # 7 above:

By the way these pigtails needed a small adaptor fitting because our regulator accepts a 1/4” male NPT, not 1/4” inverted flare. It looks like it depends on the regulator. Some accept the inverted flare on the pigtails directly so you might not need it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-59953-P...EKQCBEMQ8X6Z2Y

I need to replace the propane pigtails on my 2015 21' and need a little guidance from those more knowledgeable than I. My current (original) pigtail has the 1/4" male NPT fitting, so it appears I do not need the adapter. However, my existing pigtail has a check valve in the fitting. In the two links above, neither the pigtail nor the adapter appears to contain a check valve.

So, is the check valve necessary? If so, what's the best way to include one?

Thanks in advance,

Paul
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Old 09-04-2019, 10:05 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by a602pmcc View Post
Quote from post # 7 above:

By the way these pigtails needed a small adaptor fitting because our regulator accepts a 1/4” male NPT, not 1/4” inverted flare. It looks like it depends on the regulator. Some accept the inverted flare on the pigtails directly so you might not need it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-59953-P...EKQCBEMQ8X6Z2Y

I need to replace the propane pigtails on my 2015 21' and need a little guidance from those more knowledgeable than I. My current (original) pigtail has the 1/4" male NPT fitting, so it appears I do not need the adapter. However, my existing pigtail has a check valve in the fitting. In the two links above, neither the pigtail nor the adapter appears to contain a check valve.

So, is the check valve necessary? If so, what's the best way to include one?

Thanks in advance,

Paul
The best propane pigtails I have found are made by MB Sturgis. Here is a link to the 12" with back check.

https://www.etrailer.com/Propane/MB-...100473-12.html
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Old 09-04-2019, 10:35 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by a602pmcc View Post
Quote from post # 7 above:

By the way these pigtails needed a small adaptor fitting because our regulator accepts a 1/4” male NPT, not 1/4” inverted flare. It looks like it depends on the regulator. Some accept the inverted flare on the pigtails directly so you might not need it.

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LNJQ0Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-59953-P...EKQCBEMQ8X6Z2Y

I need to replace the propane pigtails on my 2015 21' and need a little guidance from those more knowledgeable than I. My current (original) pigtail has the 1/4" male NPT fitting, so it appears I do not need the adapter. However, my existing pigtail has a check valve in the fitting. In the two links above, neither the pigtail nor the adapter appears to contain a check valve.

So, is the check valve necessary? If so, what's the best way to include one?

Thanks in advance,

Paul
All Type 1 connectors with the ACME nut should have the back check built in. There should be no need for anything additional in the line. The Mr. Heater or MB Sturgis pigtails that Tom linked to should serve you well.
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Old 09-04-2019, 10:58 AM   #16
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All Type 1 connectors with the ACME nut should have the back check built in. There should be no need for anything additional in the line.
The excess flow valve (which should be in all pigtails, QCC-1 or POL) is a flow rate limiter, not a back-check (one-way) valve, and no check valve is required in a pigtail.

It was common for dual-tank setups to have a check valve for each side - typically mounted in a tee on the regulator input - when plain single-input regulators were used, to keep the propane from one tank leaking out when the other tank was disconnected. With an auto-changeover regulator, this is handled by the changeover valve.

Every unnecessary valve is another potential point to fail, or just to make annoying whistling noises.

a602pmcc - did the original really have a back check valve, or just an excess flow valve? If you meant an excess flow valve... then yes, you should have one and the hose will have it. Escape uses pigtails with a green hand nut, indicating the flow rate allowed by the valve (200,000 BTU/hr)... so go with green for the replacement. The black (100,000 BTU/hr) rate might not be enough.
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Old 09-04-2019, 02:21 PM   #17
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Back Check Valve

Brian,

I was basing my assessment of the existing one having a back check valve on the presence of a plastic and spring apparatus visible in the regulator end (male NPT fitting) of the pigtail as shown in the photo below. If that is indeed a back check valve it sounds from the additional info provided by you, Rubicon, and Tom that such a valve is superfluous in this application. (I do have the standard Escape change-over regulator.)

So I can just order the Mr Heater or similar pigtail and should be good to go.

Thanks guys, you have smartened me up considerably on how this works and how to keep it safe.

Paul
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Old 09-04-2019, 04:21 PM   #18
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Brian,

I was basing my assessment of the existing one having a back check valve on the presence of a plastic and spring apparatus visible in the regulator end (male NPT fitting) of the pigtail as shown in the photo below. If that is indeed a back check valve it sounds from the additional info provided by you, Rubicon, and Tom that such a valve is superfluous in this application. (I do have the standard Escape change-over regulator.)

So I can just order the Mr Heater or similar pigtail and should be good to go.

Thanks guys, you have smartened me up considerably on how this works and how to keep it safe.

Paul
It depends on the regulator setup you have on your trailer. My guess is that if it has a back check now, you should replace it with a pigtail with a back check. Even if the back check is not needed, it's not going to hurt anything to have it.

The link I posted is for a 12" pigtail with a back check - should exactly match the one you have now.

MB Sturgis Propane Hose Assembly - RV Type 1 w/ Back Check x 1/4" MPT - 12"
https://www.etrailer.com/Propane/MB-...100473-12.html
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Old 09-04-2019, 05:11 PM   #19
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Thanks, Tom. I just ordered two of those.
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Old 09-04-2019, 05:20 PM   #20
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I was basing my assessment of the existing one having a back check valve on the presence of a plastic and spring apparatus visible in the regulator end (male NPT fitting) of the pigtail as shown in the photo below.
That makes sense. A superfluous back-check valve is probably harmless if you don't need your propane system to work in challenging conditions. I have found propane use to be problematic in low temperatures, so I look for a more optimal design.
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