Questions after orientation

[Jim Bennett]

Just as I would if I had the tool instead of a socket, mine stays in my truck/trailer tool kit. I can't imagine ever needing it at home.

It is like with sparkplug sockets, I much prefer a real socket over a stamped steel one like the element tool, but I have always been on that buys into the merit of good tools. I kinda gotta in my line of work.

[C&G in FL]

I've never needed a 1-1/2" socket at home. If I had, I would have bought one instead of borrowing one, so I will probably keep it in the tool bag in the truck, and will replace the cheap one already there. That way, it will be accessible whether I am at home or on the road.

[Jimrules]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

Yes, just open a hot tap until just water comes out, that will mean it is full.

Before you do that you also need to make sure that the water heater is not in bypass.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by Jimrules

Before you do that you also need to make sure that the water heater is not in bypass.

Yes, good thought.

[Kountrykamper]

Originally Posted by dmetz

How do you know if there is water in the water-heater tank? Can I tell by turning on the hot tap and if water comes out, there's water in the tank?

You can also open the relief valve outside and if you get water you have water in the tank. You will probably get you shoes wet. :-)

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by blhvet

Also, I'm assuming the hot water tank isn't hooked up to the inverter?? Ie. if the switch is on when boon docking, will it work off of the battery??

Correct - the wiring is done so that the electric element of the water heater will not work with battery power.

Originally Posted by C&G in FL

... And although I do not have the inverter, I strongly doubt the water heater is hooked to it. The power required to heat water electrically using an inverter would quickly drain the battery.

Yes, that's why the water heater element (as installed by Escape) is powered from a circuit breaker in the main WFCO panel, so it can't get power from the inverter. In an all-outlets inverter installation like this, the power from the inverter is available only to circuits from the extra breaker box (located under the dinette seat).

[padlin]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

A 1 1/2" socket. Wanna borrow mine?

Fidures, my set goes to 1-1/4" and I won't be in Calgary till next summer. I'll have to break down and spend the $10.

[thoer]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

Holds up hand! "Me too". Well, actually I blame Lisa. I did leave the switch on after draining, but she is the one who plugged it in and powered it up.

It was an easy swap out, not too expensive, but still a pain in the butt to have to do. Glad it happened in the drive. This is why I like the indication inside, and will be adding a switch to my monitor panel. Why? Because I can, and I want to.

I still like just switching off the breaker, so I have to turn both the breaker and the outside switch on - if i forget one the other is still off. But I know you love that cute LED light.....

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by thoer

I still like just switching off the breaker, so I have to turn both the breaker and the outside switch on - if i forget one the other is still off. But I know you love that cute LED light.....

Not a great idea to constantly use a breaker as a switch. Plus I have enough trouble getting at my breakers, and once the pedestal goes in it will be even worse.

Besides, it only cost me a total of $55 to switch at the control panel, not counting the beers that shipping will cost me.

[thoer]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

Not a great idea to constantly use a breaker as a switch. Plus I have enough trouble getting at my breakers, and once the pedestal goes in it will be even worse.

Besides, it only cost me a total of $55 to switch at the control panel, not counting the beers that shipping will cost me.

Oh, lots of beers! Constantly - heck, once off in the fall when winterizing and once on in the spring when dewinterizing!

[blhvet]

Thanks everyone for the most excellent answers!! Saved me a phone call to ETI tomorrow.

So, I learned that the inside switch for the water heater is for it to run on propane, and the exterior switch on the tank is to run it on A/C.

And Jim "refreshed" my memory that the lanyard remote is for the awning light! (Duh...)

And I'm pretty clear on how the inverter works - crawled under today and set it on Remote. And was able to turn it on.

So, all of this brought up 2 new questions:
1). The manual says you should always turn the power off at at the breaker before plugging in. Is this just the one "Main" breaker? I've never done this before. And at Irientation, I was told to leave the tow plugged in to the trailer and running when I plug in - why?

2). Where is the water heater bypass? I'm assuming at the rear near the winterizing valve?

PS: I also may have fried my empty hot water tank on my first trip out in a previous trailer - I was VERY careful this time.

Thanks again for all the help. Today I made a cover for the bed out of the considerable amount of leftover fabric. Now if it would just stop snowing!

Brenda

[ReagentGrade]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

Besides, it only cost me a total of $55 to switch at the control panel, not counting the beers that shipping will cost me.

Jim, did you use low voltage wire and a relay like your new t-stat uses a relay to control the toe kick heater?

Rich

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by ReagentGrade

Jim, did you use low voltage wire and a relay like your new t-stat uses a relay to control the toe kick heater?

Rich

I haven't done the mid yet, the courier outfit is a little slow, but should have it to me by the rally.

I am using the relay made for the water heater, and a replacement panel from KIB. You do need a single positive from the switch in the panel to the relay, and just use a negative that is already there.

In my phone watching hockey right now, but can get specs later.

[Chris & Patricia]

Originally Posted by blhvet

Thanks everyone for the most excellent answers!! Saved me a phone call to ETI tomorrow.

So, I learned that the inside switch for the water heater is for it to run on propane, and the exterior switch on the tank is to run it on A/C.

And Jim "refreshed" my memory that the lanyard remote is for the awning light! (Duh...)

And I'm pretty clear on how the inverter works - crawled under today and set it on Remote. And was able to turn it on.

So, all of this brought up 2 new questions:
1). The manual says you should always turn the power off at at the breaker before plugging in. Is this just the one "Main" breaker? I've never done this before. And at Irientation, I was told to leave the tow plugged in to the trailer and running when I plug in - why?

2). Where is the water heater bypass? I'm assuming at the rear near the winterizing valve?

PS: I also may have fried my empty hot water tank on my first trip out in a previous trailer - I was VERY careful this time.

Thanks again for all the help. Today I made a cover for the bed out of the considerable amount of leftover fabric. Now if it would just stop snowing!

Brenda

Brenda, when they say turn the power off at the breaker before plugging in, I think they mean the breaker that is typically on the power pole at the RV site's plug in point. Keep that off, plug in and then turn that breaker on. Personally, I would not keep the tow vehicle plugged in, but that's me.

[blhvet]

Turning the power off at the post makes more sense - must have misunderstood. Thanks!

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by blhvet

1). ... And at orientation, I was told to leave the tow plugged in to the trailer and running when I plug in - why?

This makes no sense, so it must have been a miscommunication.

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by blhvet

... at Orientation, I was told to leave the tow plugged in to the trailer and running when I plug in - why?

All I can think of is they mentioned that you should plug the trailer into the 7 pin on the tow vehicle with the tow NOT running. Once plugged in, start your tow. Same principle as shutting off the breaker at the campsite power pole before plugging in the 30 amp cord. Basically you're making the connection before applying power to it, to reduce the risk of an electrical surge or a blown fuse.

If that's not what was mentioned, I have no idea.


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[steve dunham]

A cord and plug connection is not designed to be connected or disconnected under load.