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Old 07-21-2015, 12:15 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyronL View Post
From all I have read and heard this battered sad sack of a fridge sure got issues. I don’t think it’s a lemon but who can ignore them issues. Not insignificant is the big mystery behind why some owners have drastically differing versions of the same fridge! I mean like, why do some got the 4.3 with fans, others not, or other components found in back, or on top, that are different from other 4.3 owners. Some get an insulated trailer cavity, but others did not. My 4.3 warms up inside big time when it is 90 f plus outside after I do something foolish, like open its door for a cold one. That’s not nice for the price, is it? Isn’t it strange we get tropical weather here but cannot get the Dometic “T” version?

Therefore to satisfy curiosity about these things I submit pictures of my 4.3’s behind, and open this thread for others to submit their differing versions, if you got one. My serial number is 13700005, purchased 19 Sep 2013. Show us what you got!

PS: I pulled mine out to do some of the mods I have been reading about, and they are these:
  • Built framing for that baffle Reace liked, then didn’t like. I liked Ron of BC’s design and did my modified version of it. A metal baffle is easier to install because of its flexibility. Logic told me it has to help.
  • Insulated the be-Jesus out of the fridge cavity. (Ditto sentence 3 above.)
  • Replaced the thermistor with a Snip-the-clip thermistor. (Why not?)
  • Designed a plastic curtain acting as a barrior for escaping cold air. (Better than nothing.)
  • Removed the freezer compartment. (I always bring an ice chest anyway.)
  • Struggled with adding a manual switch for them two factory “Texas fans,” then rejected the idea. (If it ain’t broke, etc.)
I don’t want a new door, or to upgrade to the bigger two-door model. 4.3 is fine for me. Like I said, I do not think the thing is a lemon…not yet.
Myron some pics of ours pick up Nov. 2013
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Old 07-21-2015, 12:20 PM   #22
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re-thinking the rm8551 4.3

Quote:
Originally Posted by Patandlinda View Post
Myron some pics of ours pick up Nov. 2013
pics are before my recent changes . the baffle was redone now at a true 45 degree . the wiring was foe a inside frig fan . Pat
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Old 07-21-2015, 12:59 PM   #23
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Rich..... It is left over scraps of sheet from an unrelated project. I thought it might work better than my first idea, which was hanging a cut down old plastic shower curtain from the top shelf. (Bought the full sheet from a plastics products supplier in town.)

I made it a snug fit. Not attached to fridge wall. It's primary value is probably limited to when you want to grab something off the door.

Not the greatest but....
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Old 07-21-2015, 01:39 PM   #24
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I mounted my switch in the upper cabinet.

There seems to be 2 versions of the 4.3. One with the connections on the top with 2 fans. One with the connections on the back with 1 fan.

My cabinet was not cleaned up in this picture so excuse the mess. I now have a double with 2 switches in that location. One for interior fan and one for outside.

Trailer completed August 2013
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Old 07-21-2015, 02:22 PM   #25
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Rich..... It is left over scraps of sheet from an unrelated project. I thought it might work better than my first idea, which was hanging a cut down old plastic shower curtain from the top shelf. (Bought the full sheet from a plastics products supplier in town.)

I made it a snug fit. Not attached to fridge wall. It's primary value is probably limited to when you want to grab something off the door.

Not the greatest but....
I appreciate the photo and your comments; thanks very much, Myron! I'm pondering how to replicate the type walk-in coolers have, using 4 or 5 sheets of overlapping, clear plastic that you can reach in through.
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Old 07-21-2015, 02:35 PM   #26
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The down side of having the buss block and the fuse on the top of the unit is having to remove the front fascia if one suspected a blown fuse.
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Old 07-21-2015, 02:41 PM   #27
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Requires a ground wire in addition to battery positive. With the lower junction block you have east access to battery positive for a fan switch.
Yeah, I understand it would require a ground wire, but I like the idea of having the switch lighted when on, and if it means running a little more wire it's worth it. I'll probably add a second fan as well when I get around to this project. So far, my problems with the refrigerator (and it's a 4.3) have been minimal, but haven't used the trailer in really hot weather yet.
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Old 07-21-2015, 02:46 PM   #28
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The down side of having the buss block and the fuse on the top of the unit is having to remove the front fascia if one suspected a blown fuse.
No s#%t! Next time I'm in Chiliwack, I'm going to have to buy some replacement trim to go around the interior fridge opening to replace the pieces I mangled on the reinstallation. This time I'm going to use a light, removeable adhesive though in case I ever need to replace the fuse..
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Old 07-21-2015, 02:51 PM   #29
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No s#%t! Next time I'm in Chiliwack, I'm going to have to buy some replacement trim to go around the interior fridge opening to replace the pieces I mangled on the reinstallation. This time I'm going to use a light, removeable adhesive though in case I ever need to replace the fuse..
No way that buss block and fuse can be re-routed to back where it's accessible through the outside panel? Almost defeats the purpose of having an outside access point, except maybe for the propane connection.
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Old 07-21-2015, 04:36 PM   #30
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No s#%t! Next time I'm in Chiliwack, I'm going to have to buy some replacement trim to go around the interior fridge opening to replace the pieces I mangled on the reinstallation. .
I got lucky on that part, I managed to get it back on intact. I cheated, I took out some of the little staples, leaving only ones at the ends and one in the center and managed to get them back in the original holes.

Also, when I went to push the fridge back in the opening there was no way it would go back in it was so tight. I had to trim the opening a bit. Ah, this fridge has been a learning curve.

Ron
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