Re-thinking the RM8551 4.3 - Page 7 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 07-23-2015, 08:34 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by bdornbush View Post
I have one of the newer fridges (April, 2015) with the single fan at the bottom. I can see it through the lower access panel. The wires from the fan seem to go up behind the fridge. I would like to put the fan on a separate switch as others have done, but I don't see the thermal switch to bridge across. Do I have to remove the fridge to get to it?

I have been tracking my fridge temps for the last week or so, and will publish soon. We had a day at 100 degrees early this week, and that spiked the fridge to 48 degrees, so I feel I need to do something, but the less I do, the better for me.
I'm looking at that as well. I don't believe you need to remove the frig, just the front fascia panel and the insulation on top of the fridge. I had the front off last week, but didn't have time to pull the insulation. I BELIEVE the fan wire runs along the top and connects up to the circuit board. It will be Sunday before I have a chance to look at it again, but I will post a photo of what the front of my fridge looks like, it's much different than the one just posted. My trailer is from November '14.
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Old 07-23-2015, 08:57 PM   #62
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On our two fan with the junction block/buss on top of the fridge version of the 4.3 fridge the ground and battery postitive for the cooling fan are connected directly to the junction block and not to the control panel. The black ground wire from the junction block is routed directly to the fans. The red positive wire runs from the junction block to the thermal switch on the condenser which completes the circuit to the fan if it ever closes. If your junction block is low and you can access the fan, you can splice in a wire to the red wire going to the fan, supplying battery positive through a switch wired to the battery positive supply at the junction block. This would eliminate the thermal switch control of the fan though which does not work adequately. If you cut the red wire from the thermal switch to the fan be sure to insulate it. You cannot access the thermal swich on the condenser for the bypass switch mod without removing the fridge.
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Old 07-23-2015, 09:06 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by Jubal View Post
On our two fan with the junction block/buss on top of the fridge version of the 4.3 fridge the ground and battery postitive for the cooling fan are connected directly to the junction block and not to the control panel. The black ground wire from the junction block is routed directly to the fans. The red positive wire runs from the junction block to the thermal switch on the condenser which completes the circuit to the fan if it ever closes. If your junction block is low and you can access the fan, you can splice in a wire to the red wire going to the fan, supplying battery positive through a switch wired to the battery positive supply at the junction block. This would eliminate the thermal switch control of the fan though which does not work adequately. If you cut the red wire from the thermal switch to the fan be sure to insulate it. You cannot access the thermal swich on the condenser for the bypass switch mod without removing the fridge.
The red and black wires from the fan run up the back and it looks like over the top, but there's no direct connection to the buss block, which makes me believe they picked up the power somewhere at the circuit board. Your approach makes sense, but I would still need to get wires over the top to provide the switch I want on the front panel. PITA. In a previous life I wired a fan on my old pop-up, but switched it at the outside panel access, which was cumbersome to turn on when needed. Don't want to do that again.

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Old 07-24-2015, 12:05 AM   #64
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Here's the front fascia of my Dometic 4.3. Modal lights are blue. And the switch I'm planning on using, it's a Conduct-Tite! 84840, from O'Reilly. It should fit either to the left or right of the existing lights. Lastly, is this little white square the thermistor? If not, what is it?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg reefer facsia.JPG (205.2 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg fan switch.JPG (206.7 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg thermister?.JPG (133.9 KB, 11 views)
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Old 07-24-2015, 07:15 AM   #65
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That is the thermistor....
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Old 07-24-2015, 08:22 AM   #66
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Originally Posted by santacruzer View Post
Here's the front fascia of my Dometic 4.3. Modal lights are blue. And the switch I'm planning on using, it's a Conduct-Tite! 84840, from O'Reilly. It should fit either to the left or right of the existing lights. Lastly, is this little white square the thermistor? If not, what is it?
That's the same frt panel as I have. When you remove it you should find a flat wire abt a 1/2 inch wide coming from the panel. Your fan sensor should be in the top back left corner of the fridge in the condenser fins. As I remember the fan wires ran up the back and we're not visible from the top. You could wire as described by others and get the wires up from the outside.
I'll be pulling my fridge next month and will post pictures of the single fan model for future reference.
Nice switch!
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Old 07-24-2015, 08:59 AM   #67
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I emailed the Snip-the-tip people yesterday about the failure of their thermostat in my RM8551. I may be eating some crow. Their customer rep quickly replied... that I got the wrong "Snip the tip":

"...You actually ordered our standard thermistor, which will not work on the 8551...."

Who knew?? Said send it back and they'll send me the right one for my fridge.
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Old 07-24-2015, 09:09 AM   #68
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Originally Posted by MyronL View Post
I emailed the Snip-the-tip people yesterday about the failure of their thermostat in my RM8551. I may be eating some crow. Their customer rep quickly replied... that I got the wrong "Snip the tip":

"...You actually ordered our standard thermistor, which will not work on the 8551...."

Who knew?? Said send it back and they'll send me the right one for my fridge.
That's funny! At least now we know your extension cords and garage circuits are good and the company is very responsive to their customer.
By the way I've been told pigeon is much better eating than crow!!

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Old 07-24-2015, 10:52 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
That is the thermistor....
Not to split hairs, but that is the thermistor mounting plate. The thermistor itself is actually attached to the back of the plate; it's a little plastic cylinder that's pushed into a moulded piece on the back side. To remove the thermistor, pull up on the wire and it should come right out. Or, just remove the screw holding the mounting bracket to the wall of the fridge and you'll see how it's attached.
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Old 07-24-2015, 01:40 PM   #70
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After pondering this a while, I think the best solution for me is to just make this a two-fan model, by installing a second one, independently switched. I have a fan and switch from a project on a previous trailer, and access to power is right in front of me. Just need to position the fan and feed the wire, which will probably be the most biggest hassle.
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