RMD 8555 Two Door Fridge - performance stats

[Chuckster]

I posted a few updates on thie high altitude refrigerator thread here:
http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f9...ion-10541.html
I was concerned by the temps I was achieving at setting 5 on my RMD855 in moderate ambient temps in Denver this weekend. Today I removed the screw holding the thermistor and let it hang on the wire. The temps on 110V setting 5 went from 38/15 fridge/freezer to 29/15 in a couple of hours. Ambient was 73 deg F. Needless to say, I'm encouraged. I was expecting maybe a degree or two.
Chuck

[cpaharley2008]

Yes, we all had a dangling thermistor in the RMD 8555, plus the plug in the door bottom and putting water in the condensate cup, welcome to the club. Glad it worked.

[skiman]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Yes, we all had a dangling thermistor in the RMD 8555, plus the plug in the door bottom and putting water in the condensate cup, welcome to the club. Glad it worked.

Jim,. Remind me what the plug in the door bottom fix is? I filled the condensate cup before we left for Hatteras. Was empty a couple days later. It probably evaporated, since it has been hot. May require charging before heading back.

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by skiman

Jim,. Remind me what the plug in the door bottom fix is? I filled the condensate cup before we left for Hatteras. Was empty a couple days later. It probably evaporated, since it has been hot. May require charging before heading back.

The door is reversible and there is an opening on the bottom opposite the hinge where Alf discovered leakage. So we filled it with foam or some other stuffing, taped the bottom to keep air leakage to a minimum.

[Chuckster]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Yes, we all had a dangling thermistor in the RMD 8555, plus the plug in the door bottom and putting water in the condensate cup, welcome to the club. Glad it worked.

Yes, these threads have been great, I was just a bit overwhelmed on where to start. It was satisfying to see the result obtained by removing one screw. Now it's time for actual testing in the field!
Chuck

[gbaglo]

Originally Posted by Chuckster

Yes, these threads have been great, I was just a bit overwhelmed on where to start. It was satisfying to see the result obtained by removing one screw. Now it's time for actual testing in the field!
Chuck

I don't understand moving the thermister. I presume the new location is warmer than the old, thus causing the fridge to run. Why not just turn it up, from 4 to 5 or whatever?

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Chuckster

Yes, these threads have been great, I was just a bit overwhelmed on where to start. It was satisfying to see the result obtained by removing one screw. Now it's time for actual testing in the field!
Chuck

We have the smaller 4.3 and that was one of the improvements we made to refrigerator . It has been that way now for over 2 years . Changing temp to 5 makes no difference for us . We leave it on 4 with thermostat dangling . Pat

[AK snowbiker]

Just throwing this out there: Dinosaur Electronic's thermistor adjustor replacement page

Dinosaur electronics makes a “Thermistor Adjuster”. Don’t know if this would make any difference, we’re lucky to hit the high 70’s on a hot day. Scott

Scott and Lori
Fat bikes are FUN!

[LeonW]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

I don't understand moving the thermister. I presume the new location is warmer than the old, thus causing the fridge to run. Why not just turn it up, from 4 to 5 or whatever?

In my case we were already on 5 and it was warm. Moving the thermister allowed us to change the fridge to 4 and still have adequate cooling. But really I need a fridge that goes to 11. I also just put in a 12volt fan on the fins from RVCooling Warehouse. I don't think it will help the cooling so much as I got tired of replacing batteries in my little blue box fan.

My RV tech said that Dometic is no longer making these fridges (or at least not importing them to North America). Makes me wonder what I will do if it breaks. maybe look into one of those Amish built replacement cooling units. I understand that the fridges went into a lot of class b motorhomes and didn't perform any better there than in an Escape. So my guess is that eventually there will be a lot of demand for a good replacement.

Slightly related, i am not sure why someone couldn't build a high quality absorption fridge, with an actually thermostat, some built in fans etc. but maybe the low power compressor fridges, combined with higher output solar panels will render that moot.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by LeonW

In my case we were already on 5 and it was warm. Moving the thermister allowed us to change the fridge to 4 and still have adequate cooling. But really I need a fridge that goes to 11. I also just put in a 12volt fan on the fins from RVCooling Warehouse. I don't think it will help the cooling so much as I got tired of replacing batteries in my little blue box fan.

My RV tech said that Dometic is no longer making these fridges (or at least not importing them to North America). Makes me wonder what I will do if it breaks. maybe look into one of those Amish built replacement cooling units. I understand that the fridges went into a lot of class b motorhomes and didn't perform any better there than in an Escape. So my guess is that eventually there will be a lot of demand for a good replacement.

Slightly related, i am not sure why someone couldn't build a high quality absorption fridge, with an actually thermostat, some built in fans etc. but maybe the low power compressor fridges, combined with higher output solar panels will render that moot.

Our Camping World is still selling the 6 cu. I believe they are still getting rid of their inventory . Also see in new Class B's . Pat

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Old Skool

Just throwing this out there: Dinosaur Electronic's thermistor adjustor replacement page

Dinosaur electronics makes a “Thermistor Adjuster”. Don’t know if this would make any difference, we’re lucky to hit the high 70’s on a hot day. Scott

Scott and Lori
Fat bikes are FUN!

Bought adjustable Thermistor . Would of required cutting my wires . I just took thermistor out of holder and it dangles . Seems to work fine that way . Also very important is insulating the refrigerator cavity . Also fans and frig guard when temps are high . Pat

[azjack]

Yesterday we finally had to leave the coast for Tucson. Since the middle of May we have been in moderate temps, 50 to 65 at night and no more than 75 during the day and the fridge worked as it should, freezer at 0 to 8 and the refridgerator at 28 to 38 on 3 bars. Yesterday we crossed the hills, each about 4000' and then drove another 300 miles at 105 to 111 degrees and the temps finally went up to 20 and 50 at Tucson. I do everything except the water drain to help. Wire screen in vent, dangle of thermister, extra insulation in the doors, in and out side fans on switches which did not help at over 100.
I also have tire sensors on the tires, the pressure at 65 F. was 42#, at 105+ pressures were 49 to 51# and tire temps went as high as 120 F at a slow 60 to 65 MPH.
Six weeks is too long and we are tired of being near the 40 footers.
Jack and Nancy

[padlin]

After working on the fridge for the last 3 years to try and keep it cool, replacing the single door with the 2 door and the dangling sensor are the only things that consistently have helped, some. Of all the other mods you can do seem to have an effect, then not.

The only ones I didn't try was adding the roof top baffle, and the plastic curtain, forget it's name.

Best of luck.

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by padlin

After working on the fridge for the last 3 years to try and keep it cool, replacing the single door with the 2 door and the dangling sensor are the only things that consistently have helped, some. Of all the other mods you can do seem to have an effect, then not.

The only ones I didn't try was adding the roof top baffle, and the plastic curtain, forget it's name.

Best of luck.

Here you go, I really like it, keeps temperature swings to a minimum and keeps items inside the unit. RV Fridge Guard

[bouterse]

Does the stuff in the door shelves still get cold when you have the fridge guard?

[cpaharley2008]

Yes, but no as cold as the interior plus overloading the door causes it's own issues. I only keep some cans on the door, 95% is kept inside. You can always move your remote thermometer to the door and one for the refer. If the refer stays cold you know the freezer is working and you can then monitor the door temperature for any differential.

[padlin]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Here you go, I really like it, keeps temperature swings to a minimum and keeps items inside the unit. RV Fridge Guard

Is it a pain to work around?

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by padlin

Is it a pain to work around?

Not really, I usually know where things are and can open one of the panels quickly.

[Santiago]

Originally Posted by LeonW

Slightly related, i am not sure why someone couldn't build a high quality absorption fridge, with an actually thermostat, some built in fans etc. but maybe the low power compressor fridges, combined with higher output solar panels will render that moot.

Leon,

As you might have read in another thread, my 2016 21 ft has a 12vdc 6.8cf refrigerator - I installed it.

When ordering the trailer, I asked that the standard 3 way Dometic be deleted, no other changes needed to be made by ETI. The cabinet and electrical were standard, no modifications other than NOT installing the 3 way Dometic were made by ETI. No kitchen cabinet framing changes required, no electrical changes required, etc. ETI had to have been pleased as they did not have to extend the propane line from furnace to the refrigerator cabinet, saving them time and money. They did not have to cut side wall and roof vents and attach vent door on wall and cap on roof. Again saving them time and money. They did not need to QA the unit making sure it ran as designed, saving them time and money. They will never need to field questions, concerns and problems from me regarding the refrigerator. Again saving them time, aggravation and money.

The electric refrigerator went through my trailer's classic style curved entry door as is with nothing being removed and right into the standard opening that was to be filled by the standard Dometic 3 way.

Lastly using the existing standard 12vdc wires within the cabinet I connected the electric refrigerator. This existing power line is labeled as "Refrigerator" on the 12vdc fuse box. I changed the blade fuse to 10 amps.

The electric unit works better than anticipated. There is no going back to propane. Heating and cooking yes, food refrigeration never again. In light of modern solar panels, I don't have solar by the way, it's a matter of time before more people think of electric refrigeration as a viable solution.

As you mentioned it's a low power unit using dan floss compressor technology. On average requires 50 to 60 amp-hours per 24 hour day and works well with solar.

[Chapitre]

For those of you who insulated the fridge door ( I already have the freezer door foam insert) - did you use canned spray foam? Did it go inside the door without escaping out somewhere else?
Thanks