RML8555 Replacement by Dometic - Page 6

azjack · 06-26-2015, 02:59 PM

We used 12 volts for 2 or 3 hours with the 110 and sun. We only have the larger 12 battery and no solar. Reace said I'd get the new switch to run the fans earlier and I think that will be enough unless we start getting 120 degrees as normal.
Jack

**rbryan4** · 06-26-2015, 03:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by azjack

... the temp went right to 110, HOT. Three hours later still hot and inside trailer was 98. The fridge was not loaded very well and the temp on gas was headed up, switched to 12 volts and the fridge held to 40 and 20 and ice cube trays and frozen items still frozen and the beer and milk felt cold in the door and tasted fine. This was extreme effort for the fridge and if the new fan temp switch helps I think we'll be good.

This is pretty darn good performance considering that the fridge is rated up to only 85F (Climate Class SN). It's good to see that others are having similar good performance in warmer weather like we did.

padlin · 07-01-2015, 06:09 AM

I'd like to pull my RMD855 to verify the baffling after the recent install, the tech said he had to cut away some of the upper portion to allow for the difference in the 2 fridges. Would appreciate steps taken to do so by someone who has removed the RML8555. If you've already posted it just point me to the correct thread. Thanks

Rossue · 07-01-2015, 08:57 AM

Are you having issues with performance? Ours goes in today and have asked Reace to send any details to the tech that may help them get it once & done.

FamilyFun · 07-09-2015, 12:06 PM

Would anyone be able to tell me which year this RML8555 replacement goes back to? I called Escape this morning but the gal couldn't tell me and I have to wait until Tammy gets back next week. I didn't receive the specific email from Escape stating that our fridge was eligible, but we've had cooling issues recently and I am curious.
Thank you!
Lisa

**rbryan4** · 07-09-2015, 12:42 PM

They started putting them in new Escapes around fall of 2014. As far as replacement goes, I was told that anyone with the 8 series single door was eligible for replacement in the agreement Reace worked out with Dometic -- no timeline specified.

Parker · 07-09-2015, 12:54 PM

We picked up our Escape in June 2013, and the new fridge is now on the way from Dometic to our local shop. The important thing is that you get your info into Escape so they can coordinate with Dometic.

FamilyFun · 07-09-2015, 01:33 PM

Rbryan4...I'm guessing you didn't mean to say fall of 2015, since it hasn't arrived yet?

I've tried to wade through the threads relating to this, but is there a common pattern to the problems folks have had with cooling in those fridges? I'm trying to determine whether our situation was a fluke or a sign of more issues to come...

Thanks for the help!
Lisa

**rbryan4** · 07-09-2015, 01:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FamilyFun

Rbryan4...I'm guessing you didn't mean to say fall of 2015, since it hasn't arrived yet?

Thanks. Yeah, a typo. Fall of 2014.

padlin · 07-09-2015, 01:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FamilyFun

I've tried to wade through the threads relating to this, but is there a common pattern to the problems folks have had with cooling in those fridges?

Hi Lisa
I'm sure you'll get more then one answer to the question but here's what we experienced.

Last Sept driving from MA to WY, had 3 days of mid to upper 80's, 7-8 hours on the road each day. Each day the temp in the fridge, set to high (5) unit on LPG, continually rose while traveling. Pull in at night temp would not cool back down completely. By the end of the 3 days the temp got up to the low 50's during the day and would drop to roughly 45 at night, the freezer never got above the 20's. Ended up tossing perishables in the fridge while what was in the freezer was obviously okay. Bought a mi size cooler and used it for the perishables for the next 5 weeks. Had cooler temps after those 3 so the fridge did regain the 30's at night and stay in the low to mid 40's for the remainder.

Didn't use it this year when it was hot before having it replaced.

Can't comment on the RMD as yet, won't use it till later in the month. They did do away with the lousy produce drawer which is a big plus.

cpaharley2008 · 07-09-2015, 03:35 PM

Mine is in the shop for replacement and they called today, the new unit will not fit unless the cut into the ETI baffle. I immediately went down there and we all discussed the options. The factory baffle will be cut off at the bottom approximately 2" to allow the taller rear of the replacement. I also noted there was was reflectix on my exterior wall but nothing around the 2 interior sides. The shop agreed to install some foam around the perimeter sides as well as the top and estimated about 1-2 extra hours over the prepaid 1 hour by Dometic. I told them to go ahead as I'll pay for the extra time if they did a good job, which they assured me they will. The rear of the old unit had -0- fans, the new unit has one lower and one upper fan with the wiring accessible from the lower rear vent if I need to turn them on manually.
First pix is old unit, the other 2 are the new unit.

skiman · 07-09-2015, 04:07 PM

I got an email from General RV in North Canton, Ohio. Dometic has approved the replacement and new Frig is on order.

skiman · 07-09-2015, 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Mine is in the shop for replacement and they called today, the new unit will not fit unless the cut into the ETI baffle. I immediately went down there and we all discussed the options. The factory baffle will be cut off at the bottom approximately 2" to allow the taller rear of the replacement. I also noted there was was reflectix on my exterior wall but nothing around the 2 interior sides. The shop agreed to install some foam around the perimeter sides as well as the top and estimated about 1-2 extra hours over the prepaid 1 hour by Dometic. I told them to go ahead as I'll pay for the extra time if they did a good job, which they assured me they will. The rear of the old unit had -0- fans, the new unit has one lower and one upper fan with the wiring accessible from the lower rear vent if I need to turn them on manually.
First pix is old unit, the other 2 are the new unit.

When you add insulation on the sides and top is the goal to insulate from the trailer interior? Do you seal the perimeter in the back to keep heat from the back area out? I should be having our 21 done soon since they have ordered the unit.

Ron in BC · 07-09-2015, 04:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by skiman

Do you seal the perimeter in the back to keep heat from the back area out? .

This is a requirement. You have an open flame, albeit very small, venting into the rear cavity. The perimeter must be sealed to prevent the byproducts of combustion from reaching the interior.

Ron

tractors1 · 07-09-2015, 05:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Mine is in the shop for replacement and they called today, the new unit will not fit unless the cut into the ETI baffle. I immediately went down there and we all discussed the options. The factory baffle will be cut off at the bottom approximately 2" to allow the taller rear of the replacement. I also noted there was was reflectix on my exterior wall but nothing around the 2 interior sides. The shop agreed to install some foam around the perimeter sides as well as the top and estimated about 1-2 extra hours over the prepaid 1 hour by Dometic. I told them to go ahead as I'll pay for the extra time if they did a good job, which they assured me they will. The rear of the old unit had -0- fans, the new unit has one lower and one upper fan with the wiring accessible from the lower rear vent if I need to turn them on manually.
First pix is old unit, the other 2 are the new unit.

Hmmm, wouldn't it make more sense if Dometic brought the burner exhaust up past the freezer coils??

cpaharley2008 · 07-09-2015, 06:05 PM

There is a rubber flap around the perimeter of the opening, similar to those on garage door vertical openings that seals once the unit is slipped inside. As far as the burner locale, I'm not sure, this whole absorption thing is interesting. The coils on the top are totally different than the lower ones, perhaps it is the lower ones that need to be kept cool while the upper ones retain the heat, thereby creating the temperature differential that causes the liquid to flow?? If the bottom and top were same temperature then the liquid would not cool.

Jubal · 07-09-2015, 06:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Mine is in the shop for replacement and they called today, the new unit will not fit unless the cut into the ETI baffle. I immediately went down there and we all discussed the options. The factory baffle will be cut off at the bottom approximately 2" to allow the taller rear of the replacement. I also noted there was was reflectix on my exterior wall but nothing around the 2 interior sides. The shop agreed to install some foam around the perimeter sides as well as the top and estimated about 1-2 extra hours over the prepaid 1 hour by Dometic. I told them to go ahead as I'll pay for the extra time if they did a good job, which they assured me they will. The rear of the old unit had -0- fans, the new unit has one lower and one upper fan with the wiring accessible from the lower rear vent if I need to turn them on manually.
First pix is old unit, the other 2 are the new unit.

This would provide more meaningful information if posted on the RML8555 thread. No such accommodation for those of us with the RM8551 4.3 refer.

Parker · 07-09-2015, 06:07 PM

Jim, when I talked with Reace, I'm pretty sure he said they remove the rear seal (at the top, I believe) and raise it a couple of inches. Yours is the second reference I've read about cutting the seal in place. I wish ETI would publish some sort of installation procedure for retrofitting these things. Maybe it's obvious what needs to be done, but I bet we'll see several versions of this process as time goes on.

cpaharley2008 · 07-09-2015, 06:11 PM

Yes, each rv repair shop may do it differently. They had a Shasta trailer in their with same issue, different refer but not cooling. They pulled the unit and found that there was no insulation and the chimney was installed backwards??

Parker · 07-09-2015, 06:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zardoz

As for tracking the several RV and Marine forums where their products are discussed, they'd be crazy not to track every word written (great job for an intern).

Last year, when they replaced the cooling unit in our 6.7, the Dometic rep in charge of warranty service very indignantly told me that they don't have time to read forums, that people on forums don't know what they're talking about, etc. Maybe someone there reads our threads, but I wouldn't put too much faith in that notion. When these fridges end up in RV service centers requesting warranty repair, it's a bit more difficult to ignore.

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