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Old 12-13-2013, 08:23 PM   #11
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I believe they are using the RM8551 and RML8551 models.
See: http://www.dometic.com/b7342c38-3e42...8ae83680.fodoc
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Old 12-13-2013, 08:57 PM   #12
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Does Escape not use models with an AUTO setting? I leave mine on AUTO unless I'm testing the unit, 120v primary, switches to propane if no 120v.
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Old 12-13-2013, 09:39 PM   #13
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You might want to search for earlier threads about this issue. In our experience with the smaller unit in our 19, it didn't seem to matter what we ran the unit on...allowing for ferries, refuelilng, etc. The biggest issue we ran into was that the fridge just doesn't work well if the outside temp is much over 80F. It seemed many others had a similar experience. We just had an extra cooler in the back of the TV and added ice every 2-3 days. I would strongly suggest buying a small thermometer that hangs inside the fridge so you know where you're at.
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Old 12-13-2013, 09:48 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin View Post
Does Escape not use models with an AUTO setting? I leave mine on AUTO unless I'm testing the unit, 120v primary, switches to propane if no 120v.
Yes, at least my 3.0 fridge is automatic. The best advice is to run it at home at least overnight before packing it with cold food. I've had no problems but then I don't camp where it's too hot.
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Old 12-13-2013, 10:01 PM   #15
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Dometic told me that their 6.7 cf models are in the RM855XX series.
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Old 12-13-2013, 10:04 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lefttee View Post
We just had an extra cooler in the back of the TV and added ice every 2-3 days. I would strongly suggest buying a small thermometer that hangs inside the fridge so you know where you're at.
Yep, the ole cooler THANG and get a thermostat that allows you to know the temperature without opening the refrigerator door!
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Old 12-13-2013, 10:12 PM   #17
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The 5 cu ft is pretty much a manual refrigerator with a electronic igniter, i.e. no electronic board. It uses a manual push button to physically open the gas valve when first starting in the propane mode. You can hear the spark ignition going until it lights as you hold the button in. Once it lights, a thermocouple in the flame generates the electricity to hold the gas valve open & the spark lighter stops.

If it blows out on the road it will immediately start the spark lighter and attempt to relight the burner without going into a "fault" mode. Before I solved the "blowing out" problem mine would relight after having blown out when ever I stopped, even 1/2 an hour after going out. I do wonder what the gas valve is doing while all this is going on since I don't have to push the manual button to restart it, and, obviously, with the flame out the thermocouple isn't holding the valve open. How does the spark igniter restart the flame if the gas valve is shut?
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Old 12-13-2013, 11:45 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vermilye View Post
The 5 cu ft ...
If it blows out on the road it will immediately start the spark lighter and attempt to relight the burner...
A relighting standing-flame refrigerator! I stand corrected. Thanks Jon.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vermilye View Post
Before I solved the "blowing out" problem mine would relight after having blown out when ever I stopped, even 1/2 an hour after going out. I do wonder what the gas valve is doing while all this is going on since I don't have to push the manual button to restart it, and, obviously, with the flame out the thermocouple isn't holding the valve open. How does the spark igniter restart the flame if the gas valve is shut?
I can only guess that the gas valve is opened by an alternate circuit to the thermocouple, turned on at the same time as the ignitor, and that both are periodically re-trying, indefinitely.

I would be interested in checking this out further, but I don't want to go down the wrong path - this one is not the 8-series and does not sound like the RM2x5x Americana series... could it be the RM2510.2R? (note the controls on the bottom) This model is listed by Dometic as having "manual electronic" controls, and does not run on 12V DC (only propane and 120V AC)
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Old 12-14-2013, 12:12 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamman View Post
I believe they are using the RM8551 and RML8551 models.
See: http://www.dometic.com/b7342c38-3e42...8ae83680.fodoc
Thanks

I was looking only in the DometicUSA site (which is supposed to be for Dometic North America), since models not listed by them should not be available here. The RM8551/RML8555 are listed in the DometicUSA catalog; it was the 4.3 cu ft capacity that I didn't see. Strangely, the US catalog lists the RM8551 as 3.74 cu ft, but the "caravan" catalog lists it as 122 litres, which 4.3 cu ft

So far, perhaps the models are:
  1. 3.0 cubic foot 3-way (15' std, 17' std) RM2354 Americana
  2. 4.3 cubic foot 3-way (15' opt, 17' opt, 19' std, original 5.0 std) RM8551
  3. 5.0 cubic foot (what Escape models?) RM2510.2R
  4. 6.7 cubic foot (19' opt, original 5.0 opt, 21' std) RML8555

The exact model does matter if one is trying to understand how it will operate... which was part of the original question.

The model number should be on the appliance manual, and on a sticker inside the refrigerator compartment - anyone want to check what they have?
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Old 12-14-2013, 12:34 AM   #20
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Sorry, just a disjointed reply here from a newbie, as I am continuing my reading.

I read a blog I found on google, this person mentioned from their tv's 130 amp alternator, with standard wiring to their trailer battery, they were getting 5 amps of battery charging. They installed #2 wire and then got 25 amps battery charging.

Is this what people mean when they say you need to install a heavy wire from your tv if you want to run your fridge on 12v? So it gives your batteries a better chance of handling the fridge draw? j
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