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Old 01-31-2018, 04:08 PM   #1
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Running temperature compensation wiring new 19

I have a 2018 19 on order and am going through the build sheet anxiety :-) I am getting solar and will replace the GoPower controller with something better when I return from my extended trip back to NH from Chilliwack. The new controller will have temperature compensation whereas the GoPower does not. So, I asked ETI about running wiring from the batteries to the electrical cabinet for the future temp comp. They will do it for $100 which seems a bit much (OK, I know, a pittance compared to what I'm paying for the trailer !) Anyway, wondering if anyone has run this kind of wiring and can tell me if it's a difficult task or just a matter of snaking cable through a conduit or something.

Much appreciated!!

Carl
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Old 01-31-2018, 04:35 PM   #2
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Do not forget, that equates to maybe $80 US...
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Old 01-31-2018, 04:37 PM   #3
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Do not forget, that equates to maybe $80 US...
Yes, I know... and I confess to being cheap 😁.
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Old 01-31-2018, 05:09 PM   #4
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on my 21, the factory solar controller is right outside the battery box, so that wiring would be trivial, but with it that close, using an external temp sensor isn't a big deal, they will both be at the same ambient temperature.
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Old 01-31-2018, 05:33 PM   #5
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on my 21, the factory solar controller is right outside the battery box, so that wiring would be trivial, but with it that close, using an external temp sensor isn't a big deal, they will both be at the same ambient temperature.
On the 19 batteries are on the tongue, in storage box in my case. Controller is under dinette bench. I don't know how the wires are run from battery box to the space under the bench.
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Old 01-31-2018, 05:50 PM   #6
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Maybe u can explain why temperature compensation is so important?
I have a portable 120 watt Go Power system I wire in via my 7 pin connector and it has worked fine in a variety of different temperature situations.
What problem r u solving?
Thanks.
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Old 01-31-2018, 05:54 PM   #7
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Anyway, wondering if anyone has run this kind of wiring and can tell me if it's a difficult task or just a matter of snaking cable through a conduit or something.
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I don't know how the wires are run from battery box to the space under the bench.
Snaking, perhaps, but not in conduit. In a factory tour, examination of display units, and thousands of forum posts I've never seen conduit used in an Escape.

Toughest part of wiring after the trailer is built is typically getting behind the wall lining, or behind built-in components such as the bathroom shell. Those shouldn't be issues for this run.
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Old 01-31-2018, 09:06 PM   #8
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The battery wires run out the bottom of the front storage box (or battery box), then along the frame to a junction box. From there, it goes up through a sealant-filled hole in the fiberglass to under the bench. Shouldn't be too hard to just poke a hole through the sealant, or clean it out then run the wires and replace it.

$80USD doesn't seem nuts for custom work. Anything that deviates from the standard build is going to add a fair bit of work/effort to keep track of it and make sure it's done at the right step in the build process. So, maybe $5 in parts, $40 in labor, $35 for the other overhead added for customization.
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Old 01-31-2018, 11:57 PM   #9
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We had ETI run a battery temp cable for a BlueSky solar controller that we swapped out after delivery, and happy to have them do it. In the realm of mods, doing it yourself would not be hard. But having them do it saved me a couple hours plus materials, etc. worth it to me for the convenience. Also had them run the wiring for a Trimetric. And for a switch that enables me to turn the marker lights on from inside the trailer when unhooked from tow. In all cases they just ran the wires and I had to hook up the gadgets myself, but really, running the wire is the hardest part.
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Old 02-01-2018, 03:44 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moaboy View Post
Maybe u can explain why temperature compensation is so important?
I have a portable 120 watt Go Power system I wire in via my 7 pin connector and it has worked fine in a variety of different temperature situations.
What problem r u solving?
Thanks.
the ideal voltage to fully charge a lead-acid battery varies with temperature. if your charge controller is right next to the battery, you can assume they will be similar temperatures and not need th external sensor. if the battery is outside in a black battery box in the sun, then its likely a very different temp than hte controller is, so the temp senso rwould be a good thing. use some tape or something to stick it onto the side of the battery and wire it to the controller.
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