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Old 01-31-2018, 05:08 PM   #1
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Running temperature compensation wiring new 19

I have a 2018 19 on order and am going through the build sheet anxiety :-) I am getting solar and will replace the GoPower controller with something better when I return from my extended trip back to NH from Chilliwack. The new controller will have temperature compensation whereas the GoPower does not. So, I asked ETI about running wiring from the batteries to the electrical cabinet for the future temp comp. They will do it for $100 which seems a bit much (OK, I know, a pittance compared to what I'm paying for the trailer !) Anyway, wondering if anyone has run this kind of wiring and can tell me if it's a difficult task or just a matter of snaking cable through a conduit or something.

Much appreciated!!

Carl
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Old 01-31-2018, 05:35 PM   #2
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Do not forget, that equates to maybe $80 US...
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Old 01-31-2018, 05:37 PM   #3
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Do not forget, that equates to maybe $80 US...
Yes, I know... and I confess to being cheap 😁.
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Old 01-31-2018, 06:09 PM   #4
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on my 21, the factory solar controller is right outside the battery box, so that wiring would be trivial, but with it that close, using an external temp sensor isn't a big deal, they will both be at the same ambient temperature.
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Old 01-31-2018, 06:33 PM   #5
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on my 21, the factory solar controller is right outside the battery box, so that wiring would be trivial, but with it that close, using an external temp sensor isn't a big deal, they will both be at the same ambient temperature.
On the 19 batteries are on the tongue, in storage box in my case. Controller is under dinette bench. I don't know how the wires are run from battery box to the space under the bench.
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Old 01-31-2018, 06:50 PM   #6
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Maybe u can explain why temperature compensation is so important?
I have a portable 120 watt Go Power system I wire in via my 7 pin connector and it has worked fine in a variety of different temperature situations.
What problem r u solving?
Thanks.
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Old 01-31-2018, 06:54 PM   #7
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Anyway, wondering if anyone has run this kind of wiring and can tell me if it's a difficult task or just a matter of snaking cable through a conduit or something.
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I don't know how the wires are run from battery box to the space under the bench.
Snaking, perhaps, but not in conduit. In a factory tour, examination of display units, and thousands of forum posts I've never seen conduit used in an Escape.

Toughest part of wiring after the trailer is built is typically getting behind the wall lining, or behind built-in components such as the bathroom shell. Those shouldn't be issues for this run.
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Old 01-31-2018, 10:06 PM   #8
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The battery wires run out the bottom of the front storage box (or battery box), then along the frame to a junction box. From there, it goes up through a sealant-filled hole in the fiberglass to under the bench. Shouldn't be too hard to just poke a hole through the sealant, or clean it out then run the wires and replace it.

$80USD doesn't seem nuts for custom work. Anything that deviates from the standard build is going to add a fair bit of work/effort to keep track of it and make sure it's done at the right step in the build process. So, maybe $5 in parts, $40 in labor, $35 for the other overhead added for customization.
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Old 02-01-2018, 12:57 AM   #9
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We had ETI run a battery temp cable for a BlueSky solar controller that we swapped out after delivery, and happy to have them do it. In the realm of mods, doing it yourself would not be hard. But having them do it saved me a couple hours plus materials, etc. worth it to me for the convenience. Also had them run the wiring for a Trimetric. And for a switch that enables me to turn the marker lights on from inside the trailer when unhooked from tow. In all cases they just ran the wires and I had to hook up the gadgets myself, but really, running the wire is the hardest part.
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Old 02-01-2018, 04:44 AM   #10
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Maybe u can explain why temperature compensation is so important?
I have a portable 120 watt Go Power system I wire in via my 7 pin connector and it has worked fine in a variety of different temperature situations.
What problem r u solving?
Thanks.
the ideal voltage to fully charge a lead-acid battery varies with temperature. if your charge controller is right next to the battery, you can assume they will be similar temperatures and not need th external sensor. if the battery is outside in a black battery box in the sun, then its likely a very different temp than hte controller is, so the temp senso rwould be a good thing. use some tape or something to stick it onto the side of the battery and wire it to the controller.
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Old 02-01-2018, 10:06 AM   #11
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I have a 2018 19 on order and am going through the build sheet anxiety :-) I am getting solar and will replace the GoPower controller with something better when I return from my extended trip back to NH from Chilliwack. The new controller will have temperature compensation whereas the GoPower does not. So, I asked ETI about running wiring from the batteries to the electrical cabinet for the future temp comp. They will do it for $100 which seems a bit much (OK, I know, a pittance compared to what I'm paying for the trailer !) Anyway, wondering if anyone has run this kind of wiring and can tell me if it's a difficult task or just a matter of snaking cable through a conduit or something.

Much appreciated!!

Carl
First off I would have the charge controller mounted in the bench with the other electrical components. Second I would think that the temperature sensor would have its own wire harness that plugged into the new controller. No reason to have anyone run wires unless you want heavy (very) wires run to hook the controller to. Read “Handyman Bob’s” blog “The RV Battey Charging Puzzle”. I would see if Escape would mount the Go Power controller inside the bench without cutting into the bench. You would have to lift the seat to check charging but that would not be a problem for one trip.
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Old 02-01-2018, 11:39 AM   #12
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First off I would have the charge controller mounted in the bench with the other electrical components.
Agreed, that’s what we did. Then cut a correctly sized hole for our replacement solar controller when we got home.

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Originally Posted by AKCamper View Post
Second I would think that the temperature sensor would have its own wire harness that plugged into the new controller. No reason to have anyone run wires unless you want heavy (very) wires run to hook the controller to.

I don’t know about other controllers, but our BlueSky uses a specific temperature sensor made by them. We supplied it to ETI and they installed it during the build. And the wiring for the Trimetric, etc. Worth it for the $ to me.
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Old 02-03-2018, 11:41 AM   #13
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Thanks, I agree that snaking the wires would best be done during production. I like the thought of being able to use the running lights when unhooked... going to steal that idea!

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Originally Posted by sclifrickson View Post
We had ETI run a battery temp cable for a BlueSky solar controller that we swapped out after delivery, and happy to have them do it. In the realm of mods, doing it yourself would not be hard. But having them do it saved me a couple hours plus materials, etc. worth it to me for the convenience. Also had them run the wiring for a Trimetric. And for a switch that enables me to turn the marker lights on from inside the trailer when unhooked from tow. In all cases they just ran the wires and I had to hook up the gadgets myself, but really, running the wire is the hardest part.
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Old 02-03-2018, 11:44 AM   #14
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I would see if Escape would mount the Go Power controller inside the bench without cutting into the bench. You would have to lift the seat to check charging but that would not be a problem for one trip.
Yes, thanks, that's my plan as well. Then I can cut the right size hole for the Morningstar that will ultimately replace the GoPower unit.
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Old 02-03-2018, 06:40 PM   #15
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I like the thought of being able to use the running lights when unhooked... going to steal that idea!

I have some pics of how I did it in this thread, not a full how-to by any means, but would be happy to splain more if it helps, see around post 71: Mods I Haven't Seen Elsewhere
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...1&share_type=t
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Old 02-03-2018, 06:57 PM   #16
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Go to post#19 here Prairie Schooner
I installed a dummy hopkins on my front box with the two pins connected inside with a 10 amp fuse, I just plug in here when I disconnect from the tow vehicle and the lights come on, handy when parking at night in rest areas.
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Old 02-03-2018, 07:55 PM   #17
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I have some pics of how I did it in this thread, not a full how-to by any means, but would be happy to splain more if it helps, see around post 71: Mods I Haven't Seen Elsewhere
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...1&share_type=t
Thanks, looks good! I like having the switch inside. Is that awning power switch standard or was that an add-on you had them do?

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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
Go to post#19 here Prairie Schooner
I installed a dummy hopkins on my front box with the two pins connected inside with a 10 amp fuse, I just plug in here when I disconnect from the tow vehicle and the lights come on, handy when parking at night in rest areas.
Thanks! There could be other of your ideas/mods I may steal ��
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Old 02-03-2018, 09:45 PM   #18
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Thanks, looks good! I like having the switch inside. Is that awning power switch standard or was that an add-on you had them do?

The awning power switch is standard on all trailers equipped with electric awnings. It removes any chance of a random garage door opener tricking your awning into deploying while you’re toodling down the road.
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