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Old 04-11-2017, 09:51 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by Kountrykamper View Post
Just a thought. Half the fridges out there are only 2 way and do not have 12 volt. Only propane or 120 volt.
That's true, generally of the larger refrigerators... perhaps because their current requirement on 12 volts would be considered excessive. My motorhome has a 2-way refrigerator like this (of the same series now installed by Escape), so we drive with it on propane.
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Old 04-11-2017, 10:02 PM   #62
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Hi: Iowa Dave... Have you ever tried to push a "Thread"? Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
Hi Alf,
Whether it was second class scouts giving their first instructions to new scouts or a newly appointed park foreman getting ready to lead his crew for his first season, I always started my pep talk with this. " Did you hear the one about the drunk dragging a chain down the street? Policeman stops him and asks, " Why are you dragging that chain?" Drunk says " You ever try pushing one of these things?"
The ones who got it went on to be successful, ones that didn't. Not so much.
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Old 04-11-2017, 10:59 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by California Dreaming View Post
...
I assumed that the fridge wouldn't drain the batteries since the trailer is hooked up/being powered by TV which is charging battery when in operation. However, it appears that towing in this mode can drain battery.
...
Cal Dreaming;
As you read through this thread you will notice the comments from folks trying to use their 'fridge on 12 volts; regarding high demand for power by the 'fridge, low supply from the tow vehicle, depleted batteries, etc.

The problem boils down to voltage drop in the wires coming from the vehicle to the 'fridge. Estimate the distance from the alternator (front of the tv) to the trailer distribution & fuse box (back of the trailer). Then double it for the round trip that the electrons have to take and you end up with 70 feet or even more.

Now add in the power demand of the larger 'fridge models. From my failing memory - somewhat around 12 to 14 amps on the 12 volt setting.

The voltage drop of this combination is around 1.5 to 2 volts. So, if the alternator is generating 14.4 volts (typical, and could be less on new model vehicles) and you subtract 2 volts, you end up with 12.4 volts at the distribution panel. This is lower than a charged battery! So what happens is that your trailer battery will attempt to provide the power - as if nothing was coming from the vehicle - until it is half empty at 12.4 volts. So you arrive at your campsite with a half discharged battery. And this is just an average case - it could be worse. (Or it could be better if your tow vehicle has better than average wires coming from the alternator to the trailer plug. My Tacoma does not.)

Having the solar panel on the roof can help - if it is a sunny day in the sunny season in the sunny South, but it won't supply the full requirements even then. So many of us campers end up using the 'fridge on propane while driving.

Hope that helps,
Alan
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Old 04-12-2017, 07:06 PM   #64
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Alan,
Thanks for the detailed explanation! My TV came with a tow package that included a hitch, large capacity radiator, transmission cooling system and heavy duty alternator which explains why my battery isn't close to being depleted when powering fridge while driving. Also I typically camp within 3-4 hours from home so that's probably a big factor compared to others. Still, I plan to use propane from now on just to help prolong trailer battery and lessen strain on TV charging system. I'm not a big power user (I use campfire or coleman stove to cook), and California rarely gets cold enough to turn on the furnace for very long (a good down blanket is all I need). Never the less, I love how efficient my little 15b is!
Jen H.
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Old 04-13-2017, 05:48 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alanmalk View Post
Cal Dreaming;

The voltage drop of this combination is around 1.5 to 2 volts. So, if the alternator is generating 14.4 volts (typical, and could be less on new model vehicles) and you subtract 2 volts, you end up with 12.4 volts at the distribution panel. This is lower than a charged battery! So what happens is that your trailer battery will attempt to provide the power - as if nothing was coming from the vehicle - until it is half empty at 12.4 volts. So you arrive at your campsite with a half discharged battery. And this is just an average case - it could be worse. (Or it could be better if your tow vehicle has better than average wires coming from the alternator to the trailer plug. My Tacoma does not.)
Allan,
I too have a Tacoma and noticed that my charging voltage is just above 14 volts at the battery. I also noticed the small wires used to supply charging voltage to the trailer. What do you think of running a set of wires that are 8 or 6 gauge from the tow vehicle battery to an Anderson plug on the rear bumper, then running like wires into the storage box where my batteries are. I guess I could just run one wire to the rear and use the frame too.
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Old 04-13-2017, 06:12 PM   #66
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I ran 10 AWG from a switch on my battery to the 7 pin connector. It ends up going to the positive terminal in the converter panel and on to the battery. Seems to work fine for me but I don't run the fridge on 12 volts.

Ron
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Old 04-13-2017, 09:39 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by AKCamper View Post
Allan,
I too have a Tacoma and noticed that my charging voltage is just above 14 volts at the battery. I also noticed the small wires used to supply charging voltage to the trailer. What do you think of running a set of wires that are 8 or 6 gauge from the tow vehicle battery to an Anderson plug on the rear bumper, then running like wires into the storage box where my batteries are.
I'm not Allan, but...
I think it will help.

You're lucky if the voltage stays up there - most modern charging systems will step down from that 14V+ level to something lower when the conditions are right. Some vehicles do keep the voltage up under conditions that the manufacturer thinks call for it, such as "tow/haul mode" or the headlights being on.

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Originally Posted by AKCamper View Post
I guess I could just run one wire to the rear and use the frame too.
Yes, the frame (or body structure of a unibody vehicle) is a huge conductor; however, the connections are the issue. Chassis ground points designed into the vehicle are much better than just drilling a hole and stuffing in a bolt (or - horror of horrors - a self-tapping screw); a marginal ground connection will be much worse than a reasonable dedicated wire.
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Old 04-14-2017, 06:41 AM   #68
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fridge 12 volt

When we picked up the trailer in Chicago last Nov. ( I did not want to go over Rockies if weather changed ) Reading the manual no propane I just put it on 12 volt and drove usually 4-6 hour a day .Since we put in a 10 ga. wire right from battery to 7 way Bargeman plug and have the 160 watt solar the twin battery set up hardly went down at all maybe to 90% . With solar and driving it works great so I will continue to use the 12 volt .Actually so far I've never used propane for the fridge I guess i should use it to see that it works ?
Down here in Florida all the State parks and RV parks have 110-120 ac so everything is hooked up . Whatever works for you 12 volt seems to work for us Jim
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Old 04-14-2017, 06:48 AM   #69
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Originally Posted by jennykatz View Post
When we picked up the trailer in Chicago last Nov. ( I did not want to go over Rockies if weather changed ) Reading the manual no propane I just put it on 12 volt and drove usually 4-6 hour a day .Since we put in a 10 ga. wire right from battery to 7 way Bargeman plug and have the 160 watt solar the twin battery set up hardly went down at all maybe to 90% . With solar and driving it works great so I will continue to use the 12 volt .Actually so far I've never used propane for the fridge I guess i should use it to see that it works ?
Down here in Florida all the State parks and RV parks have 110-120 ac so everything is hooked up . Whatever works for you 12 volt seems to work for us Jim
This is good to hear, that the dual battery/solar 2nd generation works well on 12v. I'm going to test mine on the way to Osoyoos.
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Old 04-14-2017, 08:04 AM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jennykatz View Post
When we picked up the trailer in Chicago last Nov. ( I did not want to go over Rockies if weather changed ) Reading the manual no propane I just put it on 12 volt and drove usually 4-6 hour a day .Since we put in a 10 ga. wire right from battery to 7 way Bargeman plug and have the 160 watt solar the twin battery set up hardly went down at all maybe to 90% . With solar and driving it works great so I will continue to use the 12 volt .Actually so far I've never used propane for the fridge I guess i should use it to see that it works ?
Down here in Florida all the State parks and RV parks have 110-120 ac so everything is hooked up . Whatever works for you 12 volt seems to work for us Jim
Just wait until you drive 6 hours in the rain. Then let us all know how well the solar works. Yes, mine works well if driving in direct sunlight but even with a beefed up wire to the plug, when heavily overcast or raining, I suspect you will find you will need to run the refrigerator on propane, or the battery voltage will suffer.
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