Self inflicted wound? - Page 2 - Escape Trailer Owners Community
Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×

Go Back   Escape Trailer Owners Community > Escape Tech > Escape Systems | Water, Waste, Charging & Propane
Click Here to Login
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 03-19-2015, 01:57 PM   #21
Senior Member
 
OneOleMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Seattle, Washington
Trailer: 2015 17B Sold 5/2016
Posts: 343
Quote:
Originally Posted by ksitte View Post
Sooo frustrating but you got to love it when it works!

Klaus
So true, Klaus, and on the positive side, I learned "Red light means blown fuse" and I've now got a supply of the proper fuses in my tool box.
__________________
Pat
Life is Good
When "Escaping Reality" Sold 5/2016
2012 4Runner
OneOleMan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2015, 02:01 PM   #22
Senior Member
 
Vermilye's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Oswego, New York
Trailer: 2017 Escape 21C, 2018 Ford F150
Posts: 5,363
Just a reminder for those chasing circuits with a volt meter. Because the converter ETI uses has blown fuse indicator LEDs, you WILL likely measure voltage at a socket even with a blown fuse. The LED at the fuse holder drops about .7V. Have even seen a dim glow from some LED lighting fixtures on a blown circuit.
__________________
Jon Vermilye My Travel Blog
Travel and Photo Web Page ... My Collection of RV Blogs 2018 F150 3.5EB, 2017 21
Vermilye is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2015, 02:36 PM   #23
Senior Member
 
Ron in BC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,743
Pat, glad it's working and was a simple fix. You say "first fuse" you pulled. On mine the 12V socket would have been on the 4th (down) fuse I would have pulled. To test my theory that the panels are wired the same between different units etc., what position was your 12V outlet fuse?

Jon, good point. Probably what I was seeing.

Ron
Ron in BC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2015, 10:36 PM   #24
Senior Member
 
OneOleMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Seattle, Washington
Trailer: 2015 17B Sold 5/2016
Posts: 343
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
Pat, glad it's working and was a simple fix. You say "first fuse" you pulled. On mine the 12V socket would have been on the 4th (down) fuse I would have pulled. To test my theory that the panels are wired the same between different units etc., what position was your 12V outlet fuse?

Jon, good point. Probably what I was seeing.

Ron
Ron, on mine it's the second fuse down, the first is a 20 Amp for the fridge. The way they're listed I "assumed" the 3rd fuse down would have been for the 12V outlets. Yes, I know what happens when you assume something. Sorry 'bout the blurred shot but the flash washed everything out.
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_0002.jpg  
__________________
Pat
Life is Good
When "Escaping Reality" Sold 5/2016
2012 4Runner
OneOleMan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2015, 10:47 PM   #25
Senior Member
 
Ron in BC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,743
Thanks Pat, the photo is clear enough for me to see my theory was wrong

I was sort of hoping there was some sort of consistency to the way the basic items in the panel were wired but that doesn't appear to be the case. Too bad because it would be much easier for others to help with trouble shooting a problem.

Glad your situation was resolved without any expense. I've been sucked in by fuse problems over the years. I long ago stopped trusting that because a fuse looked OK it must be OK. Now I test either by substituting a new fuse or checking for continuity with a meter.

Ron
Ron in BC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2015, 08:07 PM   #26
Senior Member
 
Patandlinda's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
Non working porch light again . Water was again in light . I did drill 2 small holes like Jim suggested . The light is Led . Forgot how to test fixture .Help . Pat
Patandlinda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2015, 09:50 AM   #27
Senior Member
 
cpaharley2008's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
The holes drilled are good for eliminating condensation as well as any water that may collect. As you tow the unit there is a venturi effect with air that will dry it inside. But as far as water intrusion, you need to find the leak, either the lens or resealing the top. Just put in a standard bulb until you track down the issue.
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
cpaharley2008 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2015, 10:34 AM   #28
Senior Member
 
Patandlinda's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
The holes drilled are good for eliminating condensation as well as any water that may collect. As you tow the unit there is a venturi effect with air that will dry it inside. But as far as water intrusion, you need to find the leak, either the lens or resealing the top. Just put in a standard bulb until you track down the issue.
Thanks Jim will do . Pat
Patandlinda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2015, 12:34 PM   #29
Senior Member
 
Patandlinda's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
The holes drilled are good for eliminating condensation as well as any water that may collect. As you tow the unit there is a venturi effect with air that will dry it inside. But as far as water intrusion, you need to find the leak, either the lens or resealing the top. Just put in a standard bulb until you track down the issue.
Jim put regular bulb in nothing . Can't remember how to see if I have power to light ? Electrical is not my strong point . I just can follow your directions . Pat
Patandlinda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2015, 01:09 PM   #30
Senior Member
 
Ron in BC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,743
Checking to see that voltage is reaching the light would be the next step.

ETI uses a crimp connector with heat shrink to connect the trailer wire to the pigtail from the lamp socket. You can insert a thin wire, or longer meter probes or a thin nail into the end of the heat shrink to reach the wire. If you can't reach into the heat shrink you can always cut it off to expose the connection and wrap it with tape afterwards.

Black is to the lamp bracket which should be grounded. Meter is about the cheapest one you can buy but more than adequate for this type of trouble shooting. About $10.

Ron
Attached Thumbnails
13-09-2015 10-53-20 AM_0002_resize.jpg  
Ron in BC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2015, 04:51 PM   #31
Senior Member
 
Patandlinda's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
Checking to see that voltage is reaching the light would be the next step.

ETI uses a crimp connector with heat shrink to connect the trailer wire to the pigtail from the lamp socket. You can insert a thin wire, or longer meter probes or a thin nail into the end of the heat shrink to reach the wire. If you can't reach into the heat shrink you can always cut it off to expose the connection and wrap it with tape afterwards.

Black is to the lamp bracket which should be grounded. Meter is about the cheapest one you can buy but more than adequate for this type of trouble shooting. About $10.

Ron
Ron I have meter . Looks like you touch black probe to end of socket for ground . I can't see where you touch the red probe ? Would I touch center of socket with red or I need to pierce the red wire ? Pat
Patandlinda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2015, 05:05 PM   #32
Senior Member
 
Ron in BC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,743
There are two possible places to check for voltage. You can, super carefully, touch the center of the bulb holder socket. But, if you accidentally let the probe go sideways a little and it touches the outer part of the socket you'll get an arc and a spark, a direct short circuit. You can check that way but be careful. If you do get an arc there's a possibility that you'd then blow a fuse. Then your light really wouldn't work.

Can you see that the lamp socket came with a short wire and then ETI used a connector to join it to a wire that comes from the interior? On mine the connector is covered with black heat shrink. I shoved a thin nail in to reach the wire and put my positive probe on that.

The advantage of checking there is that it confirms there is power near the socket. If checking the socket doesn't show any power then the defect is either in the socket or the crimp connector.

If what you have doesn't look similar to mine post a photo so we can discuss it.

Ron
Ron in BC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2015, 08:42 PM   #33
Senior Member
 
Patandlinda's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
There are two possible places to check for voltage. You can, super carefully, touch the center of the bulb holder socket. But, if you accidentally let the probe go sideways a little and it touches the outer part of the socket you'll get an arc and a spark, a direct short circuit. You can check that way but be careful. If you do get an arc there's a possibility that you'd then blow a fuse. Then your light really wouldn't work.

Can you see that the lamp socket came with a short wire and then ETI used a connector to join it to a wire that comes from the interior? On mine the connector is covered with black heat shrink. I shoved a thin nail in to reach the wire and put my positive probe on that.

The advantage of checking there is that it confirms there is power near the socket. If checking the socket doesn't show any power then the defect is either in the socket or the crimp connector.

If what you have doesn't look similar to mine post a photo so we can discuss it.

Ron
Put my meter on . I can touch where the 2 wires are soldered . I get 12.66 coming out of the trailer wiring to fixture . I went to other side and put that bulb that won't come on in and it works in otherside of trailer . So bulb is good . It seems it is the fixture . Everything else is working I mean the lights . It just is this fixture . I think Pat
Patandlinda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2015, 08:56 PM   #34
Senior Member
 
Patandlinda's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
There are two possible places to check for voltage. You can, super carefully, touch the center of the bulb holder socket. But, if you accidentally let the probe go sideways a little and it touches the outer part of the socket you'll get an arc and a spark, a direct short circuit. You can check that way but be careful. If you do get an arc there's a possibility that you'd then blow a fuse. Then your light really wouldn't work.

Can you see that the lamp socket came with a short wire and then ETI used a connector to join it to a wire that comes from the interior? On mine the connector is covered with black heat shrink. I shoved a thin nail in to reach the wire and put my positive probe on that.

The advantage of checking there is that it confirms there is power near the socket. If checking the socket doesn't show any power then the defect is either in the socket or the crimp connector.

If what you have doesn't look similar to mine post a photo so we can discuss it.

Ron
Think I found something grounding the socket , placing red to center I get .47 . I get 12.66 at the wire from trailer wiring . On the otherside I get 12.66 at center of socket and 12.66 at trailer wiring that goes to fixture . Socket is not putting out 12 volts . Now what ? Pat
Patandlinda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2015, 10:29 PM   #35
Senior Member
 
Ron in BC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,743
OK, I'm not too sure which wires you're referring to so I put some numbers on the photo. 1 is the metal housing of the lamp socket and is also a ground point, 2 is the junction between the incoming power wire (from the switch) and joins the lamp socket pigtail with a crimp connector and 3 is where you insert a positive probe to see if the center of the socket has 12 volts.

I understood what you were saying but sort of get lost at "on the other side"

So referring to the numbers what are your readings?

Ron
Attached Thumbnails
13-09-2015 10-53-20 AM_0002_numbered.jpg  
Ron in BC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2015, 10:37 PM   #36
Senior Member
 
Ron in BC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,743
OK, I posted and then read your post again. Other side refers to the light on the other side of the trailer?

That narrows your problem down to one item. The short wire that goes from the connector to the base of the bulb. I'd expose the connection and check it. It could have corrosion and be a problem. I'd pull out the end of the wire that has a small end crimped onto the wire to make a better contact with the base of the bulb. It also could have corrosion.

This is a situation where it's handy to be able to use your meter to measure continuity is really handy. But look at that specific wire first, sometimes, in the case of poor contact due to corrosion just old fashioned wiggling and jiggling will make it work.

Ron
Ron in BC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2015, 11:07 PM   #37
Senior Member
 
Patandlinda's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
OK, I posted and then read your post again. Other side refers to the light on the other side of the trailer?

That narrows your problem down to one item. The short wire that goes from the connector to the base of the bulb. I'd expose the connection and check it. It could have corrosion and be a problem. I'd pull out the end of the wire that has a small end crimped onto the wire to make a better contact with the base of the bulb. It also could have corrosion.

This is a situation where it's handy to be able to use your meter to measure continuity is really handy. But look at that specific wire first, sometimes, in the case of poor contact due to corrosion just old fashioned wiggling and jiggling will make it work.

Ron
Sorry Ron for the confusion . Orther side was the same light on drivers side . I was getting 12 volts reading from trailer wiring and also inside on the pin . I put the black on socket holder to ground . On the porch I am not getting 12 volts on center pin . But I am on trailer wiring coming through the fixture from trailer . I did try wiggling and nothing happens . I also noticed the bulb socket will turn on the bracket . It will not on the driver side light . It is tighter . Frustrating it seems I am always fixing things on new trailer . Why did I buy new trailer sometimes I ask myself . Will do some more testing tomorrow. My question why is water getting in these lights . Again 1980 motor home and 1992 camper never had to mess with porch light . Camper even had on each side lights that I switched on inside if I needed a lot of light . Never had to change bulbs or fix . This light is even under awning giving it some cover . I know sometimes new fails . Done with my rant . Pat
Patandlinda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2015, 12:26 AM   #38
Senior Member
 
Ron in BC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,743
See where the number "2" is. My negative probe is touching the bracket. Have you tried putting your negative probe on the round part (that turns) and checking the voltage from the connector to that location?

I'm sure they make these light fixtures in great quantities and they're typical of what's put on RV's but, to me, they're not a very high quality. I'm used to marine fittings, with gaskets and covers that screw on and compress the gasket and keep the water out. Actually, when I pulled my cover off and took the bulb out it was so corroded that it would probably have stopped working soon.

Ron
Ron in BC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2015, 12:48 AM   #39
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Juneau, Alaska
Trailer: 2015 17A - Ready for more Maiden Voyages ....
Posts: 881
not having my trailer yet to play with ...... I'd be very suspicious of the switch.


Tom
__________________
Consciousness: That confusing time between naps
StarvingHyena is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2015, 11:06 AM   #40
Senior Member
 
Ron in BC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,743
He does have power past the switch. It appears to stop in the fixture at the connection between the wire from the switch and the pigtail from the lamp socket.

I'd uncover the connection and test the pigtail for continuity to the bulb contact point. Also, since his lamp socket appears to be somewhat loose I'd use it as the negative ground point and see if it's still grounding.

Ron
Ron in BC is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off




» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Escape Trailer Industries or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:02 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Copyright 2023 Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.