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Old 03-19-2015, 02:57 PM   #21
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Sooo frustrating but you got to love it when it works!

Klaus
So true, Klaus, and on the positive side, I learned "Red light means blown fuse" and I've now got a supply of the proper fuses in my tool box.
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Old 03-19-2015, 03:01 PM   #22
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Just a reminder for those chasing circuits with a volt meter. Because the converter ETI uses has blown fuse indicator LEDs, you WILL likely measure voltage at a socket even with a blown fuse. The LED at the fuse holder drops about .7V. Have even seen a dim glow from some LED lighting fixtures on a blown circuit.
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Old 03-19-2015, 03:36 PM   #23
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Pat, glad it's working and was a simple fix. You say "first fuse" you pulled. On mine the 12V socket would have been on the 4th (down) fuse I would have pulled. To test my theory that the panels are wired the same between different units etc., what position was your 12V outlet fuse?

Jon, good point. Probably what I was seeing.

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Old 03-19-2015, 11:36 PM   #24
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Pat, glad it's working and was a simple fix. You say "first fuse" you pulled. On mine the 12V socket would have been on the 4th (down) fuse I would have pulled. To test my theory that the panels are wired the same between different units etc., what position was your 12V outlet fuse?

Jon, good point. Probably what I was seeing.

Ron
Ron, on mine it's the second fuse down, the first is a 20 Amp for the fridge. The way they're listed I "assumed" the 3rd fuse down would have been for the 12V outlets. Yes, I know what happens when you assume something. Sorry 'bout the blurred shot but the flash washed everything out.
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Old 03-19-2015, 11:47 PM   #25
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Thanks Pat, the photo is clear enough for me to see my theory was wrong

I was sort of hoping there was some sort of consistency to the way the basic items in the panel were wired but that doesn't appear to be the case. Too bad because it would be much easier for others to help with trouble shooting a problem.

Glad your situation was resolved without any expense. I've been sucked in by fuse problems over the years. I long ago stopped trusting that because a fuse looked OK it must be OK. Now I test either by substituting a new fuse or checking for continuity with a meter.

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Old 09-12-2015, 09:07 PM   #26
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Non working porch light again . Water was again in light . I did drill 2 small holes like Jim suggested . The light is Led . Forgot how to test fixture .Help . Pat
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Old 09-13-2015, 10:50 AM   #27
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The holes drilled are good for eliminating condensation as well as any water that may collect. As you tow the unit there is a venturi effect with air that will dry it inside. But as far as water intrusion, you need to find the leak, either the lens or resealing the top. Just put in a standard bulb until you track down the issue.
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Old 09-13-2015, 11:34 AM   #28
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The holes drilled are good for eliminating condensation as well as any water that may collect. As you tow the unit there is a venturi effect with air that will dry it inside. But as far as water intrusion, you need to find the leak, either the lens or resealing the top. Just put in a standard bulb until you track down the issue.
Thanks Jim will do . Pat
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Old 09-13-2015, 01:34 PM   #29
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The holes drilled are good for eliminating condensation as well as any water that may collect. As you tow the unit there is a venturi effect with air that will dry it inside. But as far as water intrusion, you need to find the leak, either the lens or resealing the top. Just put in a standard bulb until you track down the issue.
Jim put regular bulb in nothing . Can't remember how to see if I have power to light ? Electrical is not my strong point . I just can follow your directions . Pat
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Old 09-13-2015, 02:09 PM   #30
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Checking to see that voltage is reaching the light would be the next step.

ETI uses a crimp connector with heat shrink to connect the trailer wire to the pigtail from the lamp socket. You can insert a thin wire, or longer meter probes or a thin nail into the end of the heat shrink to reach the wire. If you can't reach into the heat shrink you can always cut it off to expose the connection and wrap it with tape afterwards.

Black is to the lamp bracket which should be grounded. Meter is about the cheapest one you can buy but more than adequate for this type of trouble shooting. About $10.

Ron
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