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Old 09-13-2015, 05:51 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
Checking to see that voltage is reaching the light would be the next step.

ETI uses a crimp connector with heat shrink to connect the trailer wire to the pigtail from the lamp socket. You can insert a thin wire, or longer meter probes or a thin nail into the end of the heat shrink to reach the wire. If you can't reach into the heat shrink you can always cut it off to expose the connection and wrap it with tape afterwards.

Black is to the lamp bracket which should be grounded. Meter is about the cheapest one you can buy but more than adequate for this type of trouble shooting. About $10.

Ron
Ron I have meter . Looks like you touch black probe to end of socket for ground . I can't see where you touch the red probe ? Would I touch center of socket with red or I need to pierce the red wire ? Pat
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Old 09-13-2015, 06:05 PM   #32
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There are two possible places to check for voltage. You can, super carefully, touch the center of the bulb holder socket. But, if you accidentally let the probe go sideways a little and it touches the outer part of the socket you'll get an arc and a spark, a direct short circuit. You can check that way but be careful. If you do get an arc there's a possibility that you'd then blow a fuse. Then your light really wouldn't work.

Can you see that the lamp socket came with a short wire and then ETI used a connector to join it to a wire that comes from the interior? On mine the connector is covered with black heat shrink. I shoved a thin nail in to reach the wire and put my positive probe on that.

The advantage of checking there is that it confirms there is power near the socket. If checking the socket doesn't show any power then the defect is either in the socket or the crimp connector.

If what you have doesn't look similar to mine post a photo so we can discuss it.

Ron
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Old 09-13-2015, 09:42 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
There are two possible places to check for voltage. You can, super carefully, touch the center of the bulb holder socket. But, if you accidentally let the probe go sideways a little and it touches the outer part of the socket you'll get an arc and a spark, a direct short circuit. You can check that way but be careful. If you do get an arc there's a possibility that you'd then blow a fuse. Then your light really wouldn't work.

Can you see that the lamp socket came with a short wire and then ETI used a connector to join it to a wire that comes from the interior? On mine the connector is covered with black heat shrink. I shoved a thin nail in to reach the wire and put my positive probe on that.

The advantage of checking there is that it confirms there is power near the socket. If checking the socket doesn't show any power then the defect is either in the socket or the crimp connector.

If what you have doesn't look similar to mine post a photo so we can discuss it.

Ron
Put my meter on . I can touch where the 2 wires are soldered . I get 12.66 coming out of the trailer wiring to fixture . I went to other side and put that bulb that won't come on in and it works in otherside of trailer . So bulb is good . It seems it is the fixture . Everything else is working I mean the lights . It just is this fixture . I think Pat
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Old 09-13-2015, 09:56 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
There are two possible places to check for voltage. You can, super carefully, touch the center of the bulb holder socket. But, if you accidentally let the probe go sideways a little and it touches the outer part of the socket you'll get an arc and a spark, a direct short circuit. You can check that way but be careful. If you do get an arc there's a possibility that you'd then blow a fuse. Then your light really wouldn't work.

Can you see that the lamp socket came with a short wire and then ETI used a connector to join it to a wire that comes from the interior? On mine the connector is covered with black heat shrink. I shoved a thin nail in to reach the wire and put my positive probe on that.

The advantage of checking there is that it confirms there is power near the socket. If checking the socket doesn't show any power then the defect is either in the socket or the crimp connector.

If what you have doesn't look similar to mine post a photo so we can discuss it.

Ron
Think I found something grounding the socket , placing red to center I get .47 . I get 12.66 at the wire from trailer wiring . On the otherside I get 12.66 at center of socket and 12.66 at trailer wiring that goes to fixture . Socket is not putting out 12 volts . Now what ? Pat
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Old 09-13-2015, 11:29 PM   #35
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OK, I'm not too sure which wires you're referring to so I put some numbers on the photo. 1 is the metal housing of the lamp socket and is also a ground point, 2 is the junction between the incoming power wire (from the switch) and joins the lamp socket pigtail with a crimp connector and 3 is where you insert a positive probe to see if the center of the socket has 12 volts.

I understood what you were saying but sort of get lost at "on the other side"

So referring to the numbers what are your readings?

Ron
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Old 09-13-2015, 11:37 PM   #36
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OK, I posted and then read your post again. Other side refers to the light on the other side of the trailer?

That narrows your problem down to one item. The short wire that goes from the connector to the base of the bulb. I'd expose the connection and check it. It could have corrosion and be a problem. I'd pull out the end of the wire that has a small end crimped onto the wire to make a better contact with the base of the bulb. It also could have corrosion.

This is a situation where it's handy to be able to use your meter to measure continuity is really handy. But look at that specific wire first, sometimes, in the case of poor contact due to corrosion just old fashioned wiggling and jiggling will make it work.

Ron
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Old 09-14-2015, 12:07 AM   #37
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OK, I posted and then read your post again. Other side refers to the light on the other side of the trailer?

That narrows your problem down to one item. The short wire that goes from the connector to the base of the bulb. I'd expose the connection and check it. It could have corrosion and be a problem. I'd pull out the end of the wire that has a small end crimped onto the wire to make a better contact with the base of the bulb. It also could have corrosion.

This is a situation where it's handy to be able to use your meter to measure continuity is really handy. But look at that specific wire first, sometimes, in the case of poor contact due to corrosion just old fashioned wiggling and jiggling will make it work.

Ron
Sorry Ron for the confusion . Orther side was the same light on drivers side . I was getting 12 volts reading from trailer wiring and also inside on the pin . I put the black on socket holder to ground . On the porch I am not getting 12 volts on center pin . But I am on trailer wiring coming through the fixture from trailer . I did try wiggling and nothing happens . I also noticed the bulb socket will turn on the bracket . It will not on the driver side light . It is tighter . Frustrating it seems I am always fixing things on new trailer . Why did I buy new trailer sometimes I ask myself . Will do some more testing tomorrow. My question why is water getting in these lights . Again 1980 motor home and 1992 camper never had to mess with porch light . Camper even had on each side lights that I switched on inside if I needed a lot of light . Never had to change bulbs or fix . This light is even under awning giving it some cover . I know sometimes new fails . Done with my rant . Pat
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Old 09-14-2015, 01:26 AM   #38
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See where the number "2" is. My negative probe is touching the bracket. Have you tried putting your negative probe on the round part (that turns) and checking the voltage from the connector to that location?

I'm sure they make these light fixtures in great quantities and they're typical of what's put on RV's but, to me, they're not a very high quality. I'm used to marine fittings, with gaskets and covers that screw on and compress the gasket and keep the water out. Actually, when I pulled my cover off and took the bulb out it was so corroded that it would probably have stopped working soon.

Ron
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Old 09-14-2015, 01:48 AM   #39
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not having my trailer yet to play with ...... I'd be very suspicious of the switch.


Tom
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Old 09-14-2015, 12:06 PM   #40
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He does have power past the switch. It appears to stop in the fixture at the connection between the wire from the switch and the pigtail from the lamp socket.

I'd uncover the connection and test the pigtail for continuity to the bulb contact point. Also, since his lamp socket appears to be somewhat loose I'd use it as the negative ground point and see if it's still grounding.

Ron
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