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Old 12-22-2017, 08:51 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by dfandrews View Post
Voila!
Pure genius. I tip my Tilley hat to you, sir.
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Old 02-22-2018, 05:50 AM   #62
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Don't have the trailer yet but I can speak to solar.

I have AM Solar installed on my Sprinter van with VHB tape. Dead easy and very secure. Also have the tilting brackets, just haven't used them yet.

Just looking at the build sheet now, not thrilled with the PWM controller ETI uses. I think I may repurpose my Bluesky MPPT for the trailer and just have ETI prewire for solar panels, two.
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Old 02-22-2018, 11:36 AM   #63
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Originally Posted by gowyn View Post
Don't have the trailer yet but I can speak to solar.

I have AM Solar installed on my Sprinter van with VHB tape. Dead easy and very secure. Also have the tilting brackets, just haven't used them yet.

Just looking at the build sheet now, not thrilled with the PWM controller ETI uses. I think I may repurpose my Bluesky MPPT for the trailer and just have ETI prewire for solar panels, two.
Just wondering has anyone ever asked if ETI would install a solar kit from AM Solar? This gets you the MPPT controller and with an optional kit you would be able to tilt the panel. The Go Power kit ETI uses probably meets the needs of most buyers, but for the rest of us....

https://amsolar.com/rv-complete-sola...s/99-180sigmpp
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Old 02-22-2018, 01:45 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by rubicon327 View Post
Just wondering has anyone ever asked if ETI would install a solar kit from AM Solar? This gets you the MPPT controller and with an optional kit you would be able to tilt the panel. The Go Power kit ETI uses probably meets the needs of most buyers, but for the rest of us....

https://amsolar.com/rv-complete-sola...s/99-180sigmpp
I asked ETI about installing electrical gear from vendors other than GP. Specifically, solar, solar controller, and inverter. The answer was NO. So, I'm going with the stock solar controller which I will replace with a real controller. Passed on the GP Inverter and will install one on my own.
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Old 02-22-2018, 06:48 PM   #65
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I asked ETI about installing electrical gear from vendors other than GP. Specifically, solar, solar controller, and inverter. The answer was NO. So, I'm going with the stock solar controller which I will replace with a real controller. Passed on the GP Inverter and will install one on my own.


In case you haven’t considered it, if you’re planning on replacing your solar controller, you might ask ETI to not mount it in the bench face as usual, but instead to “mount” it inside the bench. This way you can cut the hole for your new controller just the right size yourself.
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Old 02-22-2018, 07:52 PM   #66
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In case you haven’t considered it, if you’re planning on replacing your solar controller, you might ask ETI to not mount it in the bench face as usual, but instead to “mount” it inside the bench. This way you can cut the hole for your new controller just the right size yourself.
Yes, that is what I specified on my build sheet. I think it was one of your posts that mentioned that somewhere so thanks for the tip!
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Old 03-31-2018, 02:30 PM   #67
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I finally finished my 21' solar installation. Four 50w Lensun panels, installed with heat sink tape on the back and Eternabond tape on the edges, a Victron BlueSolar 100/30 MPPT Charge Controller, and a Victron BMV-700 Battery Monitor made up the solar installation. All the wiring is shielded in wire looms to inhibit UV damage. I also have the Lensun 100w portable panel for when I need more power or parked in the shade. All the panels are connected in parallel.

The spacing on the panels seems to allow sun to hit the panels without shading most of the time. It was a struggle to fit them as the 21 doesn't have a lot of open roof space left when a AC and Jack antenna are installed. The charge controller has bluetooth so I can monitor the solar system with my cellphone. I installed a Zamp port on the back under the passenger tail light (thanks, Jon) and that seems to be a great place to put the port.

I'm happy with the results and hope it lasts a long time as replacing a panel would be a bear with all the tape I have on it.
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Old 03-31-2018, 02:50 PM   #68
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I finally finished my 21' solar installation. Four 50w Lensun panels, installed with heat sink tape on the back and Eternabond tape on the edges, a Victron BlueSolar 100/30 MPPT Charge Controller, and a Victron BMV-700 Battery Monitor made up the solar installation. All the wiring is shielded in wire looms to inhibit UV damage. I also have the Lensun 100w portable panel for when I need more power or parked in the shade. All the panels are connected in parallel.

The spacing on the panels seems to allow sun to hit the panels without shading most of the time. It was a struggle to fit them as the 21 doesn't have a lot of open roof space left when a AC and Jack antenna are installed. The charge controller has bluetooth so I can monitor the solar system with my cellphone. I installed a Zamp port on the back under the passenger tail light (thanks, Jon) and that seems to be a great place to put the port.

I'm happy with the results and hope it lasts a long time as replacing a panel would be a bear with all the tape I have on it.
Very nice install ! Could you share any more pictures of the charge controller etc. did you go straight to the shunt on the battery neg ? I am in the middle of my install on our 19 . We have 3 60 Lensun panels , Victron 15/30 charge controller and 700 Victron battery moniter installed 11/2 ago . Or can I go to the converter instead of the battery ? Pat
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Old 03-31-2018, 03:03 PM   #69
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Very nice install ! Could you share any more pictures of the charge controller etc. did you go straight to the shunt on the battery neg ? I am in the middle of my install on our 19 . We have 3 60 Lensun panels , Victron 15/30 charge controller and 700 Victron battery moniter installed 11/2 ago . Or can I go to the converter instead of the battery ? Pat
Below are pics of the charge controller and shunt installation.

I went direct from the battery negative terminal to the shunt - all negative wiring to the trailer connected to the other side of the shunt. The charge controller positive connected directly to the battery terminal through a breaker mounted next to the controller. The charge controller negative connected to the monitor shunt.
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Solar Controller.jpg   Battery Shunt.jpg   shunt 2.jpg  
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Old 03-31-2018, 03:18 PM   #70
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Originally Posted by tdf-texas View Post
Below are pics of the charge controller and shunt installation.

I went direct from the battery negative terminal to the shunt - all negative wiring to the trailer connected to the other side of the shunt. The charge controller positive connected directly to the battery terminal through a breaker mounted next to the controller. The charge controller negative connected to the monitor shunt.
Thankyou ! Neat install ! Pat
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Old 06-12-2018, 06:15 PM   #71
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One 160 Watt roof panel would be fine, but get a 3 port roof installed. That will give you expansion from 1-3 panels and you just plug into the port. Make sure your Charge Controller is at least 30 Amps.
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Old 06-12-2018, 06:55 PM   #72
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One 160 Watt roof panel would be fine, but get a 3 port roof installed. That will give you expansion from 1-3 panels and you just plug into the port. Make sure your Charge Controller is at least 30 Amps.
Using the GoPowerCable Entry Plate that Escape supplies, I just plugged a MC4 Y into it. Should I want more, I could use another Y.

What is a source for a good 3 port cable entry?

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Old 07-21-2018, 03:29 AM   #73
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This is correct. One of the factors of solar panel efficiency is their temperature. The hotter the panel, the less power conversion from solar to electricity. The flexible panels, mounted directly to a surface affords no airflow around the panel, so it gets really hot.

The rigid panels, even with airflow around them, also get pretty hot. Its basically black metal in the sun.

As to the mounting holes being visible inside, it depends on your trailer model and how you mount panels, but for me, I will arrange for the through bolts to end up inside the cabinets. That is, out near the roof edges. I am also considering not using through bolts, only surface adhesion.

Before you all jump on me for possibility of roof panels flying off, consider this. The single company in the US doing RV solar installs with a great reputation is AM Solar in Oregon. They use only VHB adhesive tape installs. Further, if I pursue this path, I am probably going to create a large metal "foot". So, perhaps 6 inches X 6 inches square that will be taped to roof. Then the much smaller panel bracket will screw to this base plate. So, instead of perhaps 1x3=3 square inhes on VHB tape per corner, I will have something like 36 square inches per corner. And the load will be spread over that same, far greater area of the fiberglass roof.

I am also considering having multiple panels per location that are stacked. So, instead of a single 160w panel to the rear, I may have TWO 160w panels that are stacked. Upon arrival, they could be unfolded, or one slides out on rails, then both tilted. So, compared to what ETI offers of a single 160w or two 160w (320w total), no tilt. I could end up with 640w tiltable on the roof plus whatever portable units. So, I am looking at a larger charge controller as well.
Great point about the VHB. See video below, this youtube has a lot of experience with solar and in fact has written a book for all things solar on amazon.

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Old 07-21-2018, 07:12 AM   #74
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Why does someone need so much solar capacity in a travel trailer?
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Old 07-21-2018, 07:53 AM   #75
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Why does someone need so much solar capacity in a travel trailer?
Because they can?

If you are the type who likes the convenience of using 120V appliances, yet want to camp off the grid, you can certainly use it. Microwave lots, hair dryers, coffee pots, crock pots, and so on.

For me though, my 320W roof mount has always kept up, and in fact exceeded, my needs. We are using the 1500W inverter more and more, though the biggest restriction is that we really don't want to bring a lot of 120V stuff along, as we are just not used to it. The electric toaster I bought this spring certainly is the cat's ass for making toast, far better than the stovetop type that dries it out a lot.
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Old 07-21-2018, 08:26 AM   #76
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I like to camp off grid also, but I do not feel using electric appliances I have at home meets that criteria. Cooking over a fire and trying to steam, grill, bake, and toast over a fire is challenging and to me more like camping as well as memorable. Fire cooked coffee always tastes better than in house brew. But as Donna always says YMMV......
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Old 07-21-2018, 08:40 AM   #77
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Maybe the first thing that needs to be defined is "camping." I love electricity... it's magical! I'm not going to buy a bunch of 12volt appliances when I have home appliances that work in my trailer. After the initial purchase of solar, electricity is free and renewable. Unlike propane and charcoal.

I KNOW what I want out of life when I hookup Ten Forward and head out. I want my living room view to change frequently and it's now about experiences and memories.

I gave up sleeping bags when I gave up the tent. I stopped eating 'camping' food when I realized I felt better eating the same food and preparing food the same way I did at home. That requires certain types of appliances and cookware. Yeah, I go off the rails every once in awhile...

Fortunately there's no right or wrong answer. It's about any individual and works best for them. Whether all solar, no solar, generator, always hooked up... or just using their trailer as a hard-sided tent.

Make memories!
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Old 07-21-2018, 08:41 AM   #78
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I like to camp off grid also, but I do not feel using electric appliances I have at home meets that criteria. Cooking over a fire and trying to steam, grill, bake, and toast over a fire is challenging and to me more like camping as well as memorable. Fire cooked coffee always tastes better than in house brew. But as Donna always says YMMV......
Jim I think you equate using your trailer to going camping. Absolutely nothing wrong with that but some view it as traveling and the goal is not to “rough” it but simply be somewhere other than home. Add in people working remotely while traveling who need to power computer and internet equipment I think the solar can really help. Sure it would be easy to just say get hookups if you need the power but being self sufficient with solar opens up options for locations to park and provides much more freedom.

Or maybe it’s to power the 75” plasma screen.
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Old 07-21-2018, 08:55 AM   #79
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I own a trailer to go camping, go traveling, go visiting, go to music festivals, and so on. I need nothing in the way of luxury to be able to go and enjoy myself, but do enjoy a touch it now and then to make things just a bit easier. I also do a lot of the mods I do just because I can, and enjoy doing them

Just by owning an Escape trailer and using it I believe one is already camping in luxury.
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Old 07-21-2018, 08:57 AM   #80
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Why does someone need so much solar capacity in a travel trailer?
I don't see tilting panels in the picture. Our friends chose between two 100 watt tilting panels or three 100 watt fixed panels on their Airstream. They gambled and chose the three fixed panels. They've been to Arizona the last three winters and they've never run out of juice. Their camper came with an inverter, but now leave their 110 items at home because they rarely used them and wanted to free up the space.

This has been an interesting read. We plan on only purchasing one panel, but will have extra connectors installed and a port for a portable. I don't like that second panel up front directly in the airstream when traveling down the road. Renogy makes narrow 90 watt panels that should fit further back. I also see a different controller in the future.

Enjoy

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