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10-18-2019, 09:12 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Santa Rosa County, Florida
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21 Tow: 2024 Toyota Tundra
Posts: 3,105
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Solar power and circuit breakers
When AM Solar in Oregon added two rooftop solar panels to the one I had from the factory, they also installed a circuit breaker. But they put the breaker between the existing GoPower controller and the batteries, not between the panels and the controller. Why would they do that?
I am currently upgrading my solar controller. I intend to put a breaker between the panels and the new controller, mainly to act as a switch when needed, and not have one between the controller and the batteries. Why should I not do that?
__________________
Mike Lewis
She don't lie, she don't lie, she don't lie-- propane
Photos and travelogues here: mikelewisimages.com
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10-18-2019, 09:14 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: 2017 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 15,547
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At the suggestion of a local solar company I installed one on each side of the controller for safety and convenience. Haven't used them in 2 1/2 years though, and hopefully don't need to.
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
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10-18-2019, 09:24 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Oswego, New York
Trailer: 2017 Escape 21C, 2018 Ford F150
Posts: 5,373
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Lewis
When AM Solar in Oregon added two rooftop solar panels to the one I had from the factory, they also installed a circuit breaker. But they put the breaker between the existing GoPower controller and the batteries, not between the panels and the controller. Why would they do that?
I am currently upgrading my solar controller. I intend to put a breaker between the panels and the new controller, mainly to act as a switch when needed, and not have one between the controller and the batteries. Why should I not do that?
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Most large solar installations require fuses or breakers on both sides of the controller. The one between the batteries & the controller protects the wiring & controller. A fault to ground at the controller would allow the short circuit current from the battery (100's of amps) to flow if there was no circuit protection.
While a fuse or breaker is less often installed in small systems such as in our trailers, I feel a circuit breaker is a useful addition. Without it, shutting off the input to the controller from the panel is difficult. Most controller manufacturers note in their installation manuals not to connect the panels without a battery already connected. Without a breaker that can be used as a switch, you would either need to wait until night or cover or disconnect the panels before disconnecting or changing the batteries.
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10-18-2019, 12:00 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 14,935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vermilye
Most large solar installations require fuses or breakers on both sides of the controller. The one between the batteries & the controller protects the wiring & controller. A fault to ground at the controller would allow the short circuit current from the battery (100's of amps) to flow if there was no circuit protection.
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True, but a fuse (or breaker) at the battery would be more effective if the power source for the fault scenario is the battery.
I think the breakers on each side of the controller are a good idea, mostly as disconnects for only occasional use.
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10-18-2019, 12:42 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Santa Rosa County, Florida
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21 Tow: 2024 Toyota Tundra
Posts: 3,105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P
True, but a fuse (or breaker) at the battery would be more effective if the power source for the fault scenario is the battery.
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A fuse! Yes, a fuse in an in-line fuse holder between the battery and controller would protect the controller, be more compact, and would probably be less expensive than a breaker. I'll look for one, and keep the breaker between the controller and panels to shut off power from the panels when necessary. Thanks.
__________________
Mike Lewis
She don't lie, she don't lie, she don't lie-- propane
Photos and travelogues here: mikelewisimages.com
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10-18-2019, 01:36 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Baytown, Texas
Trailer: 2017 21' Escape - upgraded version
Posts: 2,697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Lewis
A fuse! Yes, a fuse in an in-line fuse holder between the battery and controller would protect the controller, be more compact, and would probably be less expensive than a breaker. I'll look for one, and keep the breaker between the controller and panels to shut off power from the panels when necessary. Thanks.
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For the size fuse you would need, a Maxi fuse works well.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
__________________
Normal people believe that if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Engineers believe in fixing it so that it never breaks.
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10-18-2019, 01:43 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Arvada, Colorado
Trailer: 2015 E'21 - 'Velocity'. Tow: Toyota Tacoma V6, 4X4, manual.
Posts: 1,692
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On the panel side of the controller you might consider a pair of Anderson Powerpole connectors. That will give an absolute indication of the disconnect state. It will also give you the option of hooking the panels to something else should it be needed. I like the 50 Amp version because it is easier to grab with fat fingers.
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Alan
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10-18-2019, 09:01 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Santa Rosa County, Florida
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21 Tow: 2024 Toyota Tundra
Posts: 3,105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdf-texas
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This is perfect, thanks. If I don't find one locally (my guess) I'll order it from Amazon. The breaker I'm using for the panel-to-controller path is this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I will also connect the hot line from the rear mounted SAE connector for a portable panel to one of the terminals on the breaker, thus killing two birds with one stone.
__________________
Mike Lewis
She don't lie, she don't lie, she don't lie-- propane
Photos and travelogues here: mikelewisimages.com
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10-18-2019, 09:05 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Santa Rosa County, Florida
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21 Tow: 2024 Toyota Tundra
Posts: 3,105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alanmalk
On the panel side of the controller you might consider a pair of Anderson Powerpole connectors.
--
Alan
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Although I user PowerPoles for my ham radio stuff, I've had occasional problems with my crimps staying crimped. I'm sure it's my fault, but there it is. So it's probably better for me to switch that connection via a circuit breaker.
__________________
Mike Lewis
She don't lie, she don't lie, she don't lie-- propane
Photos and travelogues here: mikelewisimages.com
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10-19-2019, 08:54 AM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Idaho Falls, Idaho
Trailer: 2017 Escape 21; previously a 2012 Escape 19
Posts: 78
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Mike - I used two of these breakers on the solar panel to controller side:
https://www.solar-electric.com/midni...t-breaker.html
as I set my trailer up with both a roof mounted panel and a portable array.
I used a 20amp version of the same breaker between the controller and batteries. I mounted these in their “Big Baby Box” :
https://www.solar-electric.com/misobigbabox.html
The system has been flawless thus far.
__________________
Bill
Idaho Falls
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10-19-2019, 01:06 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Victoria, BC, British Columbia
Trailer: 2020 Escape 19
Posts: 132
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I feel like I am always the one with the basic questions, but with the “stock” ETI solar set up of a panel (or two), the Go Power controller, and the batteries, do I need to take any special considerations in hooking up or unhooking the batteries? All this talk about fuses / breakers made me wonder. Thanks.
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10-19-2019, 02:42 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Oswego, New York
Trailer: 2017 Escape 21C, 2018 Ford F150
Posts: 5,373
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordan
I feel like I am always the one with the basic questions, but with the “stock” ETI solar set up of a panel (or two), the Go Power controller, and the batteries, do I need to take any special considerations in hooking up or unhooking the batteries? All this talk about fuses / breakers made me wonder. Thanks.
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The
GoPower manual (page 12) says to cover the solar panels when installing the controller. I suspect disconnecting the battery would also require disconnecting or eliminating the output of the panels.
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10-19-2019, 03:58 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Victoria, BC, British Columbia
Trailer: 2020 Escape 19
Posts: 132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vermilye
The
GoPower manual (page 12) says to cover the solar panels when installing the controller. I suspect disconnecting the battery would also require disconnecting or eliminating the output of the panels.
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Thanks Jon. I would have guessed ETI would include info on that in their manual, but I found nothing.
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10-19-2019, 05:12 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Port Townsend, Washington
Trailer: 2010 17B “MATT”, then 2017 19 “Lilly”
Posts: 1,584
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordan
Thanks Jon. I would have guessed ETI would include info on that in their manual, but I found nothing.
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The info is in the GoPower manual, which is supplied to the trailer purchaser along with manuals for all of your other appliances.
You can’t expect ETI to repeat all of the appliance-specific information in their trailer manual. Thus they supply the appliance manuals.
__________________
💩-p+☕️+n
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10-19-2019, 08:14 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Arvada, Colorado
Trailer: 2015 E'21 - 'Velocity'. Tow: Toyota Tacoma V6, 4X4, manual.
Posts: 1,692
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vermilye
The
GoPower manual (page 12) says to cover the solar panels when installing the controller. I suspect disconnecting the battery would also require disconnecting or eliminating the output of the panels.
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Or save your battery chores for night.
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10-30-2019, 01:33 PM
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#16
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Bristol, Virginia
Trailer: 2019 Escape 19 "Full Quiver"; 2018 Ford F 150 3.0l Turbodiesel
Posts: 85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wdr2
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How did you combine your 2 leads from the "baby box" to the controller?
And what size wire did you use ?
Thanks!
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10-30-2019, 01:39 PM
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#17
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Bristol, Virginia
Trailer: 2019 Escape 19 "Full Quiver"; 2018 Ford F 150 3.0l Turbodiesel
Posts: 85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vermilye
Most large solar installations require fuses or breakers on both sides of the controller. The one between the batteries & the controller protects the wiring & controller. A fault to ground at the controller would allow the short circuit current from the battery (100's of amps) to flow if there was no circuit protection.
While a fuse or breaker is less often installed in small systems such as in our trailers, I feel a circuit breaker is a useful addition. Without it, shutting off the input to the controller from the panel is difficult. Most controller manufacturers note in their installation manuals not to connect the panels without a battery already connected. Without a breaker that can be used as a switch, you would either need to wait until night or cover or disconnect the panels before disconnecting or changing the batteries.
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Jon et al,
What size breakers did you use between your roof mounts and your portable panels and the controller? between controller and batteries?
If I remember, you have 3 panels all about 150-160 Watt, Mine are 2 190's on the roof and 1 100 watt portable.
Thanks,
Bern
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10-30-2019, 02:45 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Oswego, New York
Trailer: 2017 Escape 21C, 2018 Ford F150
Posts: 5,373
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Berndad
Jon et al,
What size breakers did you use between your roof mounts and your portable panels and the controller? between controller and batteries?
If I remember, you have 3 panels all about 150-160 Watt, Mine are 2 190's on the roof and 1 100 watt portable.
Thanks,
Bern
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2 160 watt panels on the roof & I can add a portable 160 watt panel when necessary.
I have a 40 amp breaker on the panel side of the controller as well as a 30 amp fuse on the battery side. The panel breaker is much larger than I need, but I had it in stock & use it as a switch to "turn off" the panels when necessary.
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10-30-2019, 08:58 PM
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#19
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Bristol, Virginia
Trailer: 2019 Escape 19 "Full Quiver"; 2018 Ford F 150 3.0l Turbodiesel
Posts: 85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vermilye
2 160 watt panels on the roof & I can add a portable 160 watt panel when necessary.
I have a 40 amp breaker on the panel side of the controller as well as a 30 amp fuse on the battery side. The panel breaker is much larger than I need, but I had it in stock & use it as a switch to "turn off" the panels when necessary.
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Thanks, how did you join the large 4-8 gauge wires?
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10-31-2019, 01:20 AM
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#20
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Site Team
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Mid Left Coast, California
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21
Posts: 5,155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Lewis
Although I user PowerPoles for my ham radio stuff, I've had occasional problems with my crimps staying crimped. I'm sure it's my fault, but there it is. So it's probably better for me to switch that connection via a circuit breaker.
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you probably need a better crimper. I've been crimping the AWG12 PP30s with one of these Panduit CT-260's, which has always worked quite well for me.
However, it does NOT work very well on AWG10 PP45s, and I certainly wouldn't try and use it on anything larger, those sorts need special crimpers. I've had a variety of cheap crimpers, including off brand 'ratchet' crimpers, and they just don't work well, you need to invest in the correct tools for the job.
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