Standard Equipment...What You Would Like

[Perry Butler]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

For 5.0TA buyers, I'd like to see ETI hinge the top step into the loft. Yes there are those that have done it as a mod, but it's a nice change and wouldn't be much for ETI to do it during the build.

We hinged out top step and use it to hold my shoes and vacuum parts. Terry gets the bottom step and storage next to the door. Yes, that top step hinged should be standard.

Enjoy,

Perry

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

I'd like to see an aluminum frame, even as an option.

Yes me too ! Pat

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

I'd like to see an aluminum frame, even as an option.

Would you want this for less corrosion, or less weight, or both? The frame isn't much of the weight of the trailer (a few percent at most), so the weight difference with aluminum would be barely noticeable.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

Would you want this for less corrosion, or less weight, or both? The frame isn't much of the weight of the trailer (a few percent at most), so the weight difference with aluminum would be barely noticeable.

No rust . Pat

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

No rust . Pat

A second here! I have to diligently keep after the frame paint as I live near the ocean and rust will quickly get out of hand if not taken care of.

Those that live in areas that salt the roads have my deepest sympathy as that has to be worse.

[padlin]

I live in a salted road area but don't use the trailer around here in the winter so it shouldn't be an issue. Still, in 2 years I had rust on the frame. The worst areas are where the frame gets hit by road debris, sand, stones, and such.

An application of POR-15 has taken care of everything except the front facing parts, the debris still chips it some. And the ever rusting step.

Could be camping close to the ocean, which I do.

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

Would you want this for less corrosion, or less weight, or both? The frame isn't much of the weight of the trailer (a few percent at most), so the weight difference with aluminum would be barely noticeable.

Both, but mainly for corrosion.

[Carmel Clown]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

I don't understand how you can add a second step and maintain the standard 7" rise. I have high-lift axle so I have 2 5/8 " more space than most.
Could manage a 6" rise, I guess, with standard axle.

I ordered a 5.0 that will be finished in January. I needed the high axel option because of the height of my truck, but was able to opt for 2 steps instead of one.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

Both, but mainly for corrosion.

That's understandable, given the (at least superficial) frame rust issues which are frequently reported; however, aluminum is not necessarily a solution. It still corrodes, as many people have noted on their aluminum alloy wheels, and cracking related to stress and corrosion can be a significant issue in aluminum structures.

Given the high cost and potential issues, I wouldn't want to see an aluminum frame as a standard feature. I do realize that this is widely considered a desirable feature of the Oliver trailers.

Maybe a better frame coating would be a more suitable option, or standard feature.

[gbaglo]

My Hidden Hitch receiver had some sort of plastic coating that lasted a couple years. Some lawn furniture was power coated. That peeled too.

I say let it rust and slap some rust paint on it from time to time. A 500 ml can of Tremclad semi-gloss and throw away brushes from Lee Valley make it easy.

[cpaharley2008]

What about galvanized, similar to boat trailers?

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

My Hidden Hitch receiver had some sort of plastic coating that lasted a couple years. Some lawn furniture was power coated. That peeled too.

Powder-coating is certainly not a guaranteed solution - it often does not adhere well enough to work, and that's likely due to surface preparation failures.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

What about galvanized, similar to boat trailers?

That can work, although many people would probably prefer to see black paint rather than the zinc coating on visible areas of the frame. It is possible to paint over galvanizing.

In addition to being common on boat trailers, many U-Haul trailers are galvanized. They're built to last without maintenance, rather than to be pretty.

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

I say let it rust and slap some rust paint on it from time to time. A 500 ml can of Tremclad semi-gloss and throw away brushes from Lee Valley make it easy.

Provided you're just dealing with cosmetic surface rust, that'll work. But we've all heard of examples where the frame rusted to the point where structural integrity was compromised, and under stress it broke - sometimes with very ugly results, including the loss of the trailer.

An aluminum frame will have surface corrosion, but it's not going to rust through and snap. I'd pay extra for it, although I realize I'm probably in the minority.

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

An aluminum frame will have surface corrosion, but it's not going to rust through and snap. I'd pay extra for it, although I realize I'm probably in the minority.

Yeah no rust, but they do break. Gina D, a good friend an moderator on FiberglassRV, had a Burro with an aluminum frame. It broke, she was stranded. Good luck finding someone that can weld aluminum in some out-of-the-way place. Steel... any welder can weld it, even if dobbing . I think Gina had to have her Burro flat-bedded home. Ask her, she'll tell you.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

What about galvanized, similar to boat trailers?

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

That can work, although many people would probably prefer to see black paint rather than the zinc coating on visible areas of the frame. It is possible to paint over galvanizing.

In addition to being common on boat trailers, many U-Haul trailers are galvanized. They're built to last without maintenance, rather than to be pretty.

Isn’t the issue with galvanized that the zinc at and near any welds is burned off by the heat of the arc, removing the protective zinc coating? So these areas would rust anyway without further protection. If I think about my boat trailers there are a lot of mechanical fasteners (bolts) but not much welding used in their construction that I can recall offhand.

[padlin]

How about stainless steel?

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

An aluminum frame will have surface corrosion, but it's not going to rust through and snap.

I wouldn't count on that. Stress corrosion cracking can be an issue in both steel and aluminum (although it's much more of a problem in steel), and aluminum alloys don't have the effectively infinite cycle life of steel (leading to old structures failing). A good aluminum frame is desirable; one that his not well designed and fabricated can fail and is more expensive and difficult to fix than a steel frame.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by padlin

How about stainless steel?

The right "stainless" alloy could work, but is relatively expensive (in materials, and fabrication), and can be heavier than the current steel. I don't know if any production trailer (of any type) is available with a stainless steel frame.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Isn’t the issue with galvanized that the zinc at and near any welds is burned off by the heat of the arc, removing the protective zinc coating? .

Shouldn't be a problem because most welders aren't going to weld galvanized metal. Very bad health wise. You can grind it in the weld area and apply a znic rich coating on the weld but I don't think that it's as long lasting as the galvanizing.

This is a galvanized frame that I saw on a fairly old trailer in St. Petersburg recently. The frame is still in great shape. I've done enough rust painting that I'd be happy to have a galvanized frame.

Ron