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Old 09-01-2017, 01:41 PM   #21
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Myron,
Don't forget that you replaced the propane regulator.

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Old 09-01-2017, 04:00 PM   #22
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I am leaning toward the adding of the wind breaker around the boiler as the reason for keeping temperatures low. I have some tests planned but the current thought is a flame out. It seems those having the most success in solving the refrigerator warming, when on the road, have added a flame guard and/or the appliance filter inside the lower access cover.
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Old 09-01-2017, 04:13 PM   #23
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It would be interesting to someone add the wind guard and nothing else.
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Old 09-01-2017, 05:11 PM   #24
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Reace convinced me that unless you have the yellow light on your refer that the flame is not blowing out, try turning off the propane and see what happens.....
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Old 09-01-2017, 05:30 PM   #25
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Oops that's right, Dave. And a new propane regulator. Could that be it?

Interestingly, twice I heard a distinct knocking sound in behind the refrigerator. First time was in the middle of the night and I thought it might be an animal doing it, probing about the wheel well. We were camped high in the mountains, deep in the Dixie Nat Forest. Had no will to get up, get dressed, see what was going on.

Two days later when I'm preparing to pull out I hear it again, a knocking sound clearly at the back of the fridge and, also the distinct secondary sound of the piezo attempting to light the pilot. Then it all stopped. Pilot was lit, fridge was good to go on propane. We pulled out. No problems. But, what was that knocking sound all about?
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Old 09-01-2017, 05:32 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
Reace convinced me that unless you have the yellow light on your refer that the flame is not blowing out, try turning off the propane and see what happens.....
Can't relight itself if you turn off the gas so of course you'll get the fault. Try blowing it out and see if it relights. Apples and oranges.
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Old 09-01-2017, 05:39 PM   #27
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These little fridges work well enough if you remember they are door dependent .
Cold air is heavy thus every time you open the door the cold air falls out.
So you have to think to get every thing out or in with minable door openings . i.e. do I want one beer now and another in 5 min. or should I get 2 beers now .?
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Old 09-01-2017, 05:46 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyronL View Post
Oops that's right, Dave. And a new propane regulator. Could that be it?

Interestingly, twice I heard a distinct knocking sound in behind the refrigerator. First time was in the middle of the night and I thought it might be an animal doing it, probing about the wheel well. We were camped high in the mountains, deep in the Dixie Nat Forest. Had no will to get up, get dressed, see what was going on.

Two days later when I'm preparing to pull out I hear it again, a knocking sound clearly at the back of the fridge and, also the distinct secondary sound of the piezo attempting to light the pilot. Then it all stopped. Pilot was lit, fridge was good to go on propane. We pulled out. No problems. But, what was that knocking sound all about?
The knocking sound is the condenser finally reaching the set temp and the liquid falling down to be recycled , It's taking a brake before the sun comes up or some one opens the door.
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Old 09-02-2017, 07:18 AM   #29
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Hi Jim.

I also have a 2015 F150 Ford truck. Last year I learned that the +12V on the 7 pin plug is not fused and apparently goes directly to the truck computer. It is a low current line and not adequate to charge the battery on the trailer nor can it run the fridge. I modified my seven pin plug to run off the battery (through a relay) and now I have adequate juice (13.5V) to charge the trailer battery and to run the fridge while traveling. I never turn on the propane while traveling and have had no problems at all. I have the a smaller single door fridge in my escape 19.
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Old 09-02-2017, 09:55 AM   #30
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Hi Jim.

I also have a 2015 F150 Ford truck. Last year I learned that the +12V on the 7 pin plug is not fused and apparently goes directly to the truck computer. It is a low current line and not adequate to charge the battery on the trailer nor can it run the fridge. I modified my seven pin plug to run off the battery (through a relay) and now I have adequate juice (13.5V) to charge the trailer battery and to run the fridge while traveling. I never turn on the propane while traveling and have had no problems at all. I have the a smaller single door fridge in my escape 19.
I might look into doing this to. Not sure it would help my situation though, as the solar panels seem to keep the batteries well charged. I was going to try again last night on an hour and a half drive to where we are camping, but did not get out of town till near dark so did not want to try it without solar.
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Old 09-02-2017, 06:30 PM   #31
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Myron,
Where are you camping in the picture? It is beautiful.
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Old 09-02-2017, 06:44 PM   #32
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Ah, that's site 026 at the Te-ah Campground in the Dixie Nat'l Forest.
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