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Old 05-30-2017, 09:16 AM   #1
LRL
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Trailer Battery not charging off of TV

On shakedown trip home in March, all electrical systems worked just fine. However, on the past two weekend trips, we've noticed that the TV isn't charging the trailer battery as it should. I've checked the 7-pin output from the TV, and all pins, including of course, the one that should send power to the trailer batteries, are live and working. But somehow, power isn't getting from the TV to the trailer battery. Please advise as to what I should next check.

All trailer lights and electrical components appear to work fine. The solar charger works fine, and shore power works as it should.

Any advice welcome! Thanks all you wonderful forum helpers.
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Old 05-30-2017, 09:29 AM   #2
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I have a Tacoma that I use to pull my Escape 21. I don't think the alternator in my truck has much effect on the trailer's batteries due to the distance between them, which is nearly forty feet. Distance means a lot in DC circuits. I rely on solar panels and the occasional shore power to keep my batteries charged.

There have been other threads on this subject. Do a search for them to give you more info.
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Old 05-30-2017, 09:46 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by LRL View Post
On shakedown trip home in March, all electrical systems worked just fine. However, on the past two weekend trips, we've noticed that the TV isn't charging the trailer battery as it should. I've checked the 7-pin output from the TV, and all pins, including of course, the one that should send power to the trailer batteries, are live and working. But somehow, power isn't getting from the TV to the trailer battery. Please advise as to what I should next check.

All trailer lights and electrical components appear to work fine. The solar charger works fine, and shore power works as it should.

Any advice welcome! Thanks all you wonderful forum helpers.
Are you running your fridge on DC while towing? The fridge uses a large amount of power and may result on a battery draw even though your alternator may be charging. We run our fridge on propane when towing and this results on the tow vehicle charging the trailer battery fine.
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Old 05-30-2017, 11:47 AM   #4
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Are you running your fridge on DC while towing? The fridge uses a large amount of power and may result on a battery draw even though your alternator may be charging. We run our fridge on propane when towing and this results on the tow vehicle charging the trailer battery fine.
Yes, I am running the fridge on DC... as I was taught to do at orientation. I've followed the long -simmering debate between propane and DC fridge power, and am probably ready to switch to propane, if indeed it's true that the fridge can draw more power than the TV can supply.
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Old 05-30-2017, 11:58 AM   #5
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if indeed it's true that the fridge can draw more power than the TV can supply.
Lee, This was our experience. We started on DC when under tow, but discovered the batteries were not keeping up, even with solar. Since switching to propane all is good
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Old 05-30-2017, 12:13 PM   #6
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Yes, I am running the fridge on DC... as I was taught to do at orientation. I've followed the long -simmering debate between propane and DC fridge power, and am probably ready to switch to propane, if indeed it's true that the fridge can draw more power than the TV can supply.
We were the same as you, we ran on DC as this was what we were told at orientation, but as Steve said, running on propane, this is good, in fact better. However, you should also remember that when running on propane, you have a flame in the mechanism somewhere and you should be careful, especially when you pull into a gas station. May fill up on the outside pumps.
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Old 05-30-2017, 03:42 PM   #7
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I discussed getting a three-way fridge or two way with Reace before purchasing the trailer. He told me that if you left camp with depleted batteries and ran to another campground, with fridge on 12V, that when you arrived, you would have depleted batteries.
Vehicle can't supply enough power to run the fridge on 12V and charge the battery.
So, I got larger two-way fridge and drive on propane.
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Old 05-30-2017, 09:24 PM   #8
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LRL,
Back a year ago or so when the great refrigerator debate was raging, my research on the 2-door model ETI started installing in late 2014 showed that model used 170 watts (I think)
on 12volt DC supplied by the battery or batteries. On a perfectly sunny day with the sun at a high angle the solar panel we have can supply 150 watts.
I count on very little, if any, charging from the tow vehicle. So with a 20 watt or more deficit while you use your battery for the fridge while towing, you probably are losing ground all day long, as Reace told Glenn Baglo. Glenn's solar panel may have been one of the earlier models that only put out 90 watts, so that was good advice then still holds today.
I tried running on battery/solar today and the fridge did fine, but we switched to propane mid-afternoon to make sure our batteries were fully charged from solar before dry camping tonight.
This should just be a game, and not something you count on everyday. For best results, and in warmer weather, the fridge needs propane when not on 120volt.
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Old 05-30-2017, 09:57 PM   #9
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The only time I run the fridge on 12V DC is on ferries and tunnels that require the propane be turned off. There have been a couple of times when I was traveling less than 2 hours from home to a campground with hookups that I have run on 12V DC, but that is rare.
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Old 05-30-2017, 10:14 PM   #10
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The only solar I have are a couple 40 watt portable panels.
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Old 05-30-2017, 11:07 PM   #11
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Thank you (all) for your reasoned responses. It's been a great help. And now that you've explained it all, it seems so obvious! But I was befuddled and frustrated yesterday when I got home after a 4 hour drive to find my battery down below 40%! That won't happen again. Now it's on to my next mistake.
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Old 09-11-2017, 08:53 PM   #12
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Ok folks, sheer newly ignorance here, but my Suzuki Equator (Nissan Frontier in sheeps clothing) has a 160A alternator. Seems that this should be plenty to run 12v refer and charge batteries. What am I missing?
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Old 09-11-2017, 09:53 PM   #13
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You may be missing the proper gauge wire that allows enough electricity to flow to the trailer.
On the other hand, it might just be a lost cause. I scrapped getting a 3-way fridge in my Escape and opted for a larger AC/propane fridge when it was explain to me - if you leave a boony camp with a depleted battery ( from running the furnace for instance ), you will still have a depleted battery when you get to the next camp. The vehicle will not be capable of running the fridge on 12V and charging your trailer battery.
I had 10 gauge wire run and had a larger alternator as part of the tow package, but gave up on the 3-way fridge idea.
I either run on propane or keep the fridge door closed during a short trip. And, I precool the fridge for a couple days ahead and fill with cold or frozen foods.
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Old 09-12-2017, 02:46 PM   #14
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... my Suzuki Equator (Nissan Frontier in sheeps clothing) has a 160A alternator. Seems that this should be plenty to run 12v refer and charge batteries. What am I missing?
All modern vehicle alternators are far larger than required. All you're missing is that alternator capacity is not the problem.

The vehicle's charging system regulates the alternator output to keep the vehicle's electrical system at a desired voltage. If that voltage is too low, or if too much voltage is lost on the way to the trailer battery due to undersized wiring (as Glenn mentioned), your trailer battery doesn't get charged. It doesn't matter how big the alternator is, if it is idling.

It's like having a big engine, but not accelerating because no one is pushing the accelerator pedal down. No one is telling that big alternator to put out more power... which is good if your wiring is inadequate, because everything in your truck does not want to see the high voltage it would take to push enough current down that wire.
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