Trimetric 2030 Battery Monitor Shunt Location and Battery Connection - Escape Trailer Owners Community

Go Back   Escape Trailer Owners Community > Escape Tech > Escape Systems | Water, Waste, Charging & Propane
Click Here to Login
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 04-16-2018, 04:16 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: New Westminster, British Columbia
Trailer: 2009 Escape 17B
Posts: 220
Trimetric 2030 Battery Monitor Shunt Location and Battery Connection

I have been mapping out the wiring and shunt location for a Trimetric battery monitor in our 17B. The negative wires from the power centre all go out through the floor to a ground point on the frame. The battery negative is also connected to a ground point on the frame.

I think I have two options for the shunt:
1. Install the shunt in the rear dinette. This would mean wiring all negatives from power centre and the chassis to the shunt and then running a new wire from the shunt to the battery.
2. Install the shunt in a weatherproof enclosure in the battery box on the bumper and run all the sensing wires out there.

I think option 2 might be the simplest but I can't find a suitable exterior rated enclosure. Has anyone tried mounting the shunt outside in the battery box in an exterior rated box? I did find the Victron BMV-700H Shuntbox but I am not sure if the box is available separately.

Thanks!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20180415_120016.jpg (197.8 KB, 34 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20180415_120111.jpg (203.2 KB, 31 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20170816_070808.jpg (191.2 KB, 30 views)
__________________

msweet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2018, 05:37 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
Eggscape's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Kelowna, British Columbia
Trailer: 2018 Escape 19
Posts: 1,240
Outside box

I am not sure what size you need but these boxes work good from Home Depot. The are 4 inches square and come either 2 or 4 inches high.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg D61017D4-3AB0-47CD-8FB3-86DA89F1FB70.jpg (58.3 KB, 16 views)
__________________

__________________
So many modifications...so little time.

http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f8...ape-12918.html
Eggscape is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2018, 06:08 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 4,836
Quote:
Originally Posted by msweet View Post
The negative wires from the power centre all go out through the floor to a ground point on the frame. The battery negative is also connected to a ground point on the frame.
Since you're upgrading your electrical system that's an area that you might want to take a look at.

When I rewired my trailer, that situation; ground wire from battery going to ground on the trailer frame, using a short bit of the frame as a ground and then a cable from the frame to the panel caught my eye. Each cable attachment to the frame, under the trailer exposed to moisture etc. is a potential point for corrosion and degradation of the current carrying capacity. I eliminated that situation. I think ETI has since stopped doing that.

A simple fix, short of replacing the two cables with a single cable, is to bridge that area with a battery cable. Lug to lug stands less chance of degradation than a screw into the steel frame. I coat connections like that with liquid electrical tape.

Ron
Ron in BC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2018, 07:19 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: New Westminster, British Columbia
Trailer: 2009 Escape 17B
Posts: 220
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
Each cable attachment to the frame, under the trailer exposed to moisture etc. is a potential point for corrosion and degradation of the current carrying capacity. I eliminated that situation. I think ETI has since stopped doing that.
Great point! I hadn't thought of that but once you mentioned it I remembered troubleshooting boat trailer lights that weren't working due to a bad ground. I think it makes sense to install a direct run to the battery then. It keeps the battery shunt inside the trailer away from moisture, etc. I was thinking a #8 AWG would be fine as I don't have an invertor in our system and I am only going about 6'. Any reason for going with something bigger?
msweet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2018, 08:57 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Escondido, California
Trailer: 2012 Escape 19'
Posts: 940
Quote:
Originally Posted by msweet View Post
Great point! I hadn't thought of that but once you mentioned it I remembered troubleshooting boat trailer lights that weren't working due to a bad ground. I think it makes sense to install a direct run to the battery then. It keeps the battery shunt inside the trailer away from moisture, etc. I was thinking a #8 AWG would be fine as I don't have an invertor in our system and I am only going about 6'. Any reason for going with something bigger?
Sounds like my kind of project! The cable size should be selected for the maximum amp current draw which will probably be your converter that charges your battery when hooked up to shore power. I believe your trailer has a 30 amp converter (battery charger) so a short 10 AWG wire from the battery will be sized correctly for that load. I have 4 6 volt batteries and installed a 45 amp converter in my 19" so I ran 8 AWG in mine. I've measured almost 50 amps when charging and the 8 gauge gets slightly warm after a few minutes. Sizing that wire feed is important and I believe 10 AWG will be fine. Install your shunt inside if possible. The overall wiring will be much simpler. Good luck!

Steve
__________________
480 Amps 12VDC Battery Capacity,
350 Watts Adjustable Solar Panels,
2500 Watt Inverter;
"Want Some Ice Cubes?, "Want a Frozen Margarita?", Want a Jump?"
hotfishtacos is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2018, 09:03 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
strawbarry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Rockwell, North Carolina
Trailer: 2015 Escape 5TA
Posts: 124
There should be a single connection from the battery negative to the shunt, and then the shunt connects to all other negatives in the trailer including the frame. The shunt measures all current returning to the battery.
strawbarry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2018, 09:07 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Escondido, California
Trailer: 2012 Escape 19'
Posts: 940
Quote:
Originally Posted by strawbarry View Post
There should be a single connection from the battery negative to the shunt, and then the shunt connects to all other negatives in the trailer including the frame. The shunt measures all current returning to the battery .
Yes! Very important...
"returning to the battery" and from the battery...that is how the battery monitor accurately determines the charge condition.
__________________
480 Amps 12VDC Battery Capacity,
350 Watts Adjustable Solar Panels,
2500 Watt Inverter;
"Want Some Ice Cubes?, "Want a Frozen Margarita?", Want a Jump?"
hotfishtacos is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2018, 09:43 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 11,814
Since the shunt must be in the (only) path from battery negative to the rest of the trailer, the three locations choices are then:
  1. in the battery box (probably not enough space),
  2. in a separate external box (that would be my choice), or
  3. inside the trailer.

Since the shunt dissipates a little bit of heat, it might make sense to use a ventilated weatherproof box, rather than a completely sealed box; on the other hand, Victron's box appears to be just sealed. A metal box might be another alternative.
Brian B-P is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2018, 09:52 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
Patandlinda's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 5,689
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eggscape View Post
I am not sure what size you need but these boxes work good from Home Depot. The are 4 inches square and come either 2 or 4 inches high.
The box I got to install my Victron shunt in close to batteries inside storage box . Pat
Patandlinda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2018, 09:57 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Escondido, California
Trailer: 2012 Escape 19'
Posts: 940
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
Since the shunt must be in the (only) path from battery negative to the rest of the trailer, the three locations choices are then:
  1. in the battery box (probably not enough space),
  2. in a separate external box (that would be my choice), or
  3. inside the trailer.
Running a single 10 AWG or 8 AWG wire from the negative post of the battery to the inside of the trailer is easy with a drill and some sealant for the drilled holes. Then, no box is needed because weather-proofing is not an issue for the shunt and the wire can be terminated directly to the shunt inside then another supply wire to the ground wires from the power center to the other side...my vote is to keep the shunt inside and the impact of that choice is minimal...
__________________
480 Amps 12VDC Battery Capacity,
350 Watts Adjustable Solar Panels,
2500 Watt Inverter;
"Want Some Ice Cubes?, "Want a Frozen Margarita?", Want a Jump?"
hotfishtacos is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2018, 10:05 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Escondido, California
Trailer: 2012 Escape 19'
Posts: 940
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
Since the shunt must be in the (only) path from battery negative to the rest of the trailer, the three locations choices are then:
  1. in the battery box (probably not enough space),
  2. in a separate external box (that would be my choice), or
  3. inside the trailer.

Since the shunt dissipates a little bit of heat, it might make sense to use a ventilated weatherproof box, rather than a completely sealed box; on the other hand, Victron's box appears to be just sealed. A metal box might be another alternative.
I have my shunt inside the 19' on the driver's side box under the dinette and never felt any heat at all coming from mine, even in my high amperage setup...no box needed...
__________________
480 Amps 12VDC Battery Capacity,
350 Watts Adjustable Solar Panels,
2500 Watt Inverter;
"Want Some Ice Cubes?, "Want a Frozen Margarita?", Want a Jump?"
hotfishtacos is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2018, 10:12 PM   #12
Senior Member
 
rubicon327's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 3,249
Quote:
Originally Posted by hotfishtacos View Post
I believe your trailer has a 30 amp converter (battery charger) so a short 10 AWG wire from the battery will be sized correctly for that load. I have 4 6 volt batteries and installed a 45 amp converter in my 19" so I ran 8 AWG in mine. I've measured almost 50 amps when charging and the 8 gauge gets slightly warm after a few minutes. Sizing that wire feed is important and I believe 10 AWG will be fine.
Donít all Escape trailers use the WFCO 8955 power center? This has a maximum DC output of 55 amps based on the unit specs.

WF-8955 | wfcoelectronics.com
rubicon327 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2018, 10:41 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 11,814
Quote:
Originally Posted by hotfishtacos View Post
I have my shunt inside the 19' on the driver's side box under the dinette and never felt any heat at all coming from mine, even in my high amperage setup...no box needed...

But it's open to a large cabinet volume. Trap it in a little sealed box and that may change.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hotfishtacos View Post
Running a single 10 AWG or 8 AWG wire from the negative post of the battery to the inside of the trailer is easy with a drill and some sealant for the drilled holes. Then, no box is needed because weather-proofing is not an issue for the shunt and the wire can be terminated directly to the shunt inside then another supply wire to the ground wires from the power center to the other side...my vote is to keep the shunt inside and the impact of that choice is minimal...
That all makes sense, and works fine, but I just dislike equipment buried in cabinets. If the cabinet used (presumably under a dinette seat) is used for storage (or a stuffed-in shore power cord), then I would still want some sort of cover (not sealed at all) for physical protection of the shunt and wiring terminations.
Brian B-P is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2018, 10:57 PM   #14
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Escondido, California
Trailer: 2012 Escape 19'
Posts: 940
Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327 View Post
Don’t all Escape trailers use the WFCO 8955 power center? This has a maximum DC output of 55 amps based on the unit specs.

WF-8955 | wfcoelectronics.com
You are right! It has been a while since I made the installation and I remember now doing it to set the charge voltages for my 6 volt batteries.
__________________
480 Amps 12VDC Battery Capacity,
350 Watts Adjustable Solar Panels,
2500 Watt Inverter;
"Want Some Ice Cubes?, "Want a Frozen Margarita?", Want a Jump?"
hotfishtacos is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2018, 11:07 PM   #15
Senior Member
 
Patandlinda's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 5,689
Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327 View Post
Donít all Escape trailers use the WFCO 8955 power center? This has a maximum DC output of 55 amps based on the unit specs.

WF-8955 | wfcoelectronics.com
That's what we have Dave . Pat
Patandlinda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2018, 11:07 PM   #16
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 11,814
Specs can change at any time, but it looks like the Escape web site specified 45 amps from 2005 (or earlier) to just before the 2009 introduction of the 13' and 19' models, and 55 amps since then. If the published spec is correct this trailer could have either, depending on date of manufacture. Michael can just read the spec off of his converter (or the model number), but it's not a big difference.

Of course the battery can deliver much more than the converter, so while the converter/charger output rating is the highest-current case for charging, discharging current can (for a while) be higher if there is a enough load plugged in (which is unlikely without an inverter).
Brian B-P is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2018, 11:19 PM   #17
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Escondido, California
Trailer: 2012 Escape 19'
Posts: 940
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post

But it's open to a large cabinet volume. Trap it in a little sealed box and that may change.


That all makes sense, and works fine, but I just dislike equipment buried in cabinets. If the cabinet used (presumably under a dinette seat) is used for storage (or a stuffed-in shore power cord), then I would still want some sort of cover (not sealed at all) for physical protection of the shunt and wiring terminations.
Under my driver's side dinette seat I have all of my power stuff,. I find it is practical to have it all in one place if possible; 3 gauge wires installed by Escape from the 2 batteries in the front box (4 total) to my 2,500 watt Inverter, Programmable Tristar/Morningstar Solar Controller, manual power transfer switch, Victron BMV-12 Battery Monitor with Shunt, battery disconnect, WFCO ULtra III WF 8955 Distribution Center and SolarMax 45 AMP Controller.

Since everything is inside the trailer, inside a single compartment I haven't gone to the bother of putting everything in separate boxes as you would for 120 volt installations.

Steve
__________________

__________________
480 Amps 12VDC Battery Capacity,
350 Watts Adjustable Solar Panels,
2500 Watt Inverter;
"Want Some Ice Cubes?, "Want a Frozen Margarita?", Want a Jump?"
hotfishtacos is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off






» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Escape Trailer Industries or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:46 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Copyright 2012 Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.
×