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Old 10-10-2016, 11:26 PM   #21
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Viaja... thanks for the great advice but think I'll just leave my battery connections the way they are. Escape set them up for me and it's all been working swell. I'm good with that.

Brian when I chose the Xantrex, probably for the extra duplex outlets and the pretty digital display, I decided to get the biggest inverter I could afford. (Go big or go home, right?) Others might need 1500 watts, but I've always been a low voltage kind of guy. Say, did I mention it's all been working swell?

I plugged in my Dewalt 3/8ths drill just yesterday.
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Old 10-11-2016, 02:08 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Viajante View Post
MyronL, referring back to my post #4, I think you should connect + of one battery to - of second battery with jumper cables. That should satisfy everything.
There is a cable connecting the batteries, as there must be or nothing would work. It's kinda small, but it's there.
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Old 10-11-2016, 02:22 AM   #23
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... think I'll just leave my battery connections the way they are. Escape set them up for me and it's all been working swell. I'm good with that.
Escape installed the inverter with the negative cable going to the frame? I haven't seen that in other Escape installations. Perhaps they only wire the 1500 watt inverters directly to the batteries.

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Originally Posted by MyronL View Post
Brian when I chose the Xantrex, probably for the extra duplex outlets and the pretty digital display, I decided to get the biggest inverter I could afford. (Go big or go home, right?) Others might need 1500 watts, but I've always been a low voltage kind of guy. Say, did I mention it's all been working swell?

I plugged in my Dewalt 3/8ths drill just yesterday.
The lowest-power corded Dewalt 3/8" drill draws 6.7 amps (at 120 volts) at full power - that's over 70 amps of 12-volt DC power, well beyond the 600 watt rating of the inverter, and more than the 60 amps of the calculations. Although the drill will work if not fully loaded, the current draw is still substantial. It will work; it's just not efficient and not tolerant of low battery voltage.
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Old 10-11-2016, 09:57 AM   #24
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I installed the inverter. All heavier gauge than the (Escape) green wire to the frame, AWG4. Drill easily did the job. No inverter smoke, no sparks, no stress, no sweat.
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Old 10-11-2016, 02:54 PM   #25
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... think I'll just leave my battery connections the way they are. Escape set them up for me...
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Originally Posted by MyronL View Post
I installed the inverter. All heavier gauge than the (Escape) green wire to the frame, AWG4.
So Escape didn't really create this whole setup, since Myron added the inverter. I have no concerns with Escape's part, only the negative side of the inverter addition. I also have no concerns with the use of 4-gauge cables for the inverter.

By not connecting the inverter's negative cable directly to the battery, all current used by the inverter has been forced to flow through that green cable. The green cable and the cable connecting the two batteries were presumably not intended by Escape for the load of an inverter, and at least the green cable to the frame appears to be undersized for the total load with the added inverter; however, if it is large enough and the total length of cable is not too large, then everything is fine.
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Old 10-11-2016, 04:20 PM   #26
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There are some advantages with going with larger than required wire. It takes voltage to push lots (well, actually, any) amps through a wire. The term is voltage drop, and it takes place all throughout the chain, including within the batteries, the wiring, and connectors, fuses, and within the inverter itself.

At low currents, the amount of voltage drop is rarely a problem, but as you get close to the rating of the wire some start to show up. Some wire is rated at 90C or higher, hot enough to concern some, particularly if you are using connectors, switches & fuse blocks that are not rated for the same or higher temperature.

To me, the real problem with voltage drop is the inverter shutting down while you still have usable battery capacity. If there is enough voltage drop that the input at the inverter is below 11 volts, most will alarm. Below 10 volts and most shut down. If your battery was really at 10 volts, that would be good since it prevents permanent damage. The reality is some of the voltage drop is in the battery, some in the wire, some in the connections, and some in the inverter. As soon as you shut the inverter off, the voltage at the inverter input jumps back to near the battery voltage, usually much higher than it was when under load.

Going with larger than required wire size will let you run the inverter longer or at times the batteries are down from full. Since most of the work is running the wiring, going with oversized wire will help prevent hassles in the long run. This is the reason Xantrex recommends at least #0 wire for its inverter installations even though their inverters under 2000 watts don't require it by code for short cable runs.
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Old 10-11-2016, 05:44 PM   #27
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Jon, Brian...Thanks, such good stuff! Will be going to Ace Hardware for some AWG2 2wire. Why take a chance?
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Old 10-12-2016, 05:45 PM   #28
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Solar and Front Storage Box for Batteries

Myron and those with solar and batteries in the front storage box.
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There are a number of reasons for not having the controller in the battery box. The first is the electrical danger. Flooded batteries may off gas, namely hydrogen, during the charge process and any chance of a spark could result in an explosion. Such events as a runaway charger or poorly programed charger can cause this as well.

Second, it is just good practice to isolate batteries from something you are adjusting or connecting in case of a dropped tool. So that slipped screwdriver does not create a light and sound show. Keeping non essential things out of the battery box and keeping the box closed while working is an important safety practice.

The third reason is the gas that is present in the battery box can cause a premature failure in the electrical components of a charger/controller, it is just plain hard on electronics. So keeping that controller outside eliminates that problem.
I recalled seeing Myron's photo of his front storage box and noticing that the solar controller/charger was mounted inside the box. When I had my 19' the front storage box had not been released, so I do not know how the batteries are stored. From the photos it appears there are two separate battery boxes, the type with vents on the lid. Is there any venting system of those battery boxes to the outside of the storage box?

If not, then some care must be taken when installing the controller/charger inside the front storage box. If the batteries are venting into the front storage box then that box becomes a battery box and the issues stated above may apply.
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Old 10-12-2016, 10:36 PM   #29
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Replaced the green AWG6 wire with AWG2, to the frame and, between the battery terminals.

Expect many years service from a quality converter. Manual says the closer the solar converter is to protected batteries, the better. Have zero reason for concern about an explosion caused by a sparking solar converter. Scary thought but believe in my application irrelevant. Plenty of ventilation in my not very tightly sealed (outer) storage box. Lid always remains open when solar wires are connecting to remote panels. Not to worry.
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Old 10-12-2016, 10:57 PM   #30
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I see why the lid is always open when on solar. You are correct, no build up of the nasty gases with your install.
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