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Old 03-06-2019, 01:02 PM   #21
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My problem with a running water pump was rectified by replacing the city water intake valve. It seems that valve is spring loaded and also subject to damage if not drained when winterizing the RV. The defective valve allows air to escape and the system cannot be pressurized. I'm not a plumber and this isn't my forte but it sounded good when the tech at the RV dealer explained it to me.
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Old 03-06-2019, 01:49 PM   #22
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My problem with a running water pump was rectified by replacing the city water intake valve. It seems that valve is spring loaded and also subject to damage if not drained when winterizing the RV. The defective valve allows air to escape and the system cannot be pressurized. I'm not a plumber and this isn't my forte but it sounded good when the tech at the RV dealer explained it to me.
Did you release the valve when you winterized the trailer?
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Old 03-18-2019, 10:59 AM   #23
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UPDATE. Artis tech support useless. Nobody answers the phone.

I turned the set screw counterclockwise a full turn and problem solved. Back off 1/4 turn and Im back in bizness!

Thanks all and to Steve up at ETI Tech support.
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Old 04-01-2019, 06:53 AM   #24
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If you did get this option, it is the Ez-Winterization option, under the bed, clear plastic hose connected to a 3 way valve, one way allows the pump to pump antifreeze into the system, other is off. So if it is open you are sucking air and the pump should run.
I'm still reading this thread and I vote this as the problem.


I want this option and thought I had marked it, but am unable to find it on my build sheet due May 6.



I had to winterize twice this year and crawled under the Casita 17SD permanent bed to temporarily hook into the TV antifreeze container.


I'll ask Melisa to help me find this option.


Thank you Jim.
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Old 04-01-2019, 06:59 AM   #25
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I just realized Greg doesn't have the Winterizing valve.


Still my thanks to Jim for helping me realize I have missed ordering an option that I need.
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Old 04-01-2019, 07:01 AM   #26
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Very easy to use and if you did not get the option, they sell after market kits. Basically you turn a valve and the pump pulls antifreeze from a gallon container. You then go to each exit point and open until antifreeze appears. https://smile.amazon.com/Camco-Perma...y&sr=8-1-fkmr1
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Old 04-01-2019, 07:53 AM   #27
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Very easy to use and if you did not get the option, they sell after market kits. Basically you turn a valve and the pump pulls antifreeze from a gallon container. You then go to each exit point and open until antifreeze appears. https://smile.amazon.com/Camco-Perma...y&sr=8-1-fkmr1
Or just dump a gallon in the empty tank and run pump till you get pink at all faucets, hot and cold (of course you need to bypass hot water heater). Make sure to release pressure at city water hook up too.
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Old 04-01-2019, 08:16 AM   #28
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Or just dump a gallon in the empty tank and run pump till you get pink at all faucets, hot and cold (of course you need to bypass hot water heater). Make sure to release pressure at city water hook up too.


Have fun rinsing your tank if you do this. What does pink goo taste like? Not the kind that magically turns into chicken nuggets. I know what that tastes like.

My preference is the blow out method. Also ETI’s recommended method.
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Old 04-01-2019, 08:54 AM   #29
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Although we did get the Ez-Winterization option, we have never used it. I figure if the blow out method is good enough for ETI way up in Canada, it's good enough for me way down here. Easy peasy, and never had an issue

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My preference is the blow out method. Also ETI’s recommended method.
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Old 04-01-2019, 09:24 AM   #30
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UPDATE: it was just a minor adjustment to tge set screw on the new pump. Problem solved.
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Old 04-01-2019, 09:28 AM   #31
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Or just dump a gallon in the empty tank and run pump till you get pink at all faucets, hot and cold (of course you need to bypass hot water heater). Make sure to release pressure at city water hook up too.
I doubt a gallon would be enough, you may need at least 3 for the pump to pick up. The E-Z way eliminates any fresh tank contamination. The blow out works also, but you have to purchase antifreeze for the traps, so using the E-Z means one gal should do the lines and traps.
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Old 04-01-2019, 11:46 AM   #32
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I doubt a gallon would be enough, you may need at least 3 for the pump to pick up. The E-Z way eliminates any fresh tank contamination. The blow out works also, but you have to purchase antifreeze for the traps, so using the E-Z means one gal should do the lines and traps.
Totally winterized my trailer less than 1.5 gal and it gets below zero in the winter here in the mountains of VT no problems with the escape, the scamp before it or the sailboat before that. To each their own.
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Old 04-01-2019, 11:50 AM   #33
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Have fun rinsing your tank if you do this. What does pink goo taste like? Not the kind that magically turns into chicken nuggets. I know what that tastes like.

My preference is the blow out method. Also ETI’s recommended method.
To each their own. In the spring I empty the antifreeze(potable of course), refill and dump a couple of times and then fill and chlorinate the system, then flush again. Works for me and no need for a compressor(I have one in the garage). In late fall when temps are iffy I add some antifreeze for toilet flushing and bring a jug of drinking water....no freeze ups so far.
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Old 04-01-2019, 11:56 AM   #34
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UPDATE: it was just a minor adjustment to tge set screw on the new pump. Problem solved.
Glad you got it fixed! And thanks for letting us know what the problem was.
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Old 04-01-2019, 01:29 PM   #35
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UPDATE: it was just a minor adjustment to tge set screw on the new pump. Problem solved.
Is this the same set screw that Reace talks about in this video?

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Old 04-01-2019, 07:03 PM   #36
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UPDATE: it was just a minor adjustment to tge set screw on the new pump. Problem solved.
Hi Gregg don't you just love it when The fix is so easy ? Pat
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Old 04-02-2019, 02:25 AM   #37
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After a 6 month mostly winter lay up, I couldn't stand it anymore. Had to jet down to my trailer storage and try to get acquainted with my trailer again. I brought her flowers, chocolates and love poems …. but to no avail. She obviously would not succumb to my advances and refused to allow all systems operate to the same high level of operation as when I left her.

One of my issues was that my water pump would not shut off. I just used the off / on switch to get my water. Upon investigation I looked at the hot water tank and discovered that the anode was in dismal shape. Of course it was Saturday night and all RV store were closed till Monday …. so it goes. … lucky it wasn't a five day holiday. I replaced my anode with a new one, sealed it with Teflon tape and fired up my hot water heater. I toggled my water pressure switch off and on when I needed water for clean up. Then I noticed that the water pump would shut off in between "needs". It fixed itself. My suspiction is that in my absence that the flaps of the pump had dried out and 'stuck' together. All's well that ends well.

Next, my refer wasn't working except on 110V. 12 volt no go …. and my usual propane setting wouldn't work either. Cook top was fine and thankfully the furnace was working no complaint as it was still cold at night. I turned the refer on and off repeatedly but it still wouldn't operate except under110V. Ok as long as I was plugged in but not my favorite way to camp. Since I felt I could understand my hot water heater easier I went off to try to fix it first. Upon returning from my second trip to the RV parts store …. miracles of miracles …. my refer had shifted all on it own to "Propane". Atta girl! Maybe the flowers and chocolates were working. More to come.

On top of the above …. my inverter refused to put out 100Vpower. Checked out the input …. sure enough 12 volts from my 2 - 6 volt batteries. No 110V output. That closed down my micro and made charging my phone and tablet more difficult - could still do it in my truck cab. I pulled the inverter, cleaned the terminals and even replaced the GFI that supplied the 110 volts. No go ….. mmmm. Replacement is expensive. Further research will have to wait until next trip as I had only budgeted 6 days for this trip. I still don't know what is wrong with my inverter … it worked perfectly pre- layup. ?

My suspicion is that the flowers, chocolates and love poems were working to get my trailer to forgive me. Should you be lucky enough to be traveling with your sweetie …. do not ever let on that those favors are really for the trailer … let her believe that they were for her!

Machinery HATES to sit!!!!

Always trying to help,
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Old 04-02-2019, 06:52 AM   #38
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Sounds like your trailer missed Valentines Day with you, cute story....hope to see you in Osoyoos.
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Old 04-02-2019, 07:12 AM   #39
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Could the 12vdc be low? on mine it needs to be over 11.3 or the inverter shuts down.
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Old 04-02-2019, 11:34 AM   #40
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Thanks for that suggestion but my voltage was over 12 volts. Inverter was operating when I laid up my trailer …. only new thing / change was that I installed a 3 amp battery minder and left it running while I was gone. First thing I did upon return was to check my battery water levels. All cells were slightly low but plates easily still covered - topped them up. Voltage good but no change in inverter.

Does anyone know if there is an internal fuse to check. I did replace the GFI with a new 20 amp one but still no output power. No fan and no lights lighting up. ?

I guess I will have to wait until my return to investigate further. One issue I have had with my trailer over the last 4 years of ownership is that nothing has gone wrong....I haven't even needed to add air to the tires. This reliability has left me unequipped to just jump in and fix things … now the learning curve begins.

Hope for the best for everyone's summer travels,
Tom
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