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Old 02-26-2019, 09:50 AM   #1
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Water pump constantly runs

My water pump runs as long as its on. At first I thought it was just refilling the hot water tank but cant be the case, it never stops. Any ideas?

I'm thinking a valve has failed and water simply keeps recirculating.

Ive already burned one out, at this rate, Ill be replacing another soon enough.

Greg
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Old 02-26-2019, 10:17 AM   #2
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Hi Greggo, there is an Allen wrench adjusting screw on the top. Turn the screw till the pump stops, I can’t remember which way. I had the same problem and contacted Escape and with a couple of adjustments the pump has been fine since. Good luck
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Old 02-26-2019, 10:21 AM   #3
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Thanks! Im on it, hope that works. My original pump suddenly started non-stop running a few months ago, thats why I suspect a valve. I apparently left the pump on and it burned itself out while we were out playing.
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Old 02-26-2019, 11:54 AM   #4
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Lesson learned, never leave your trailer pump on while leaving the trailer unattended. Leaks can wreck a vacation far from home. I only turn on the pump while inside or sitting outside. If we leave, the pump is off.
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Old 02-26-2019, 01:00 PM   #5
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For it to be a recirculation issue the piping would have to be configured to allow flow back to the return side of the pump. That is not possible with the stock plumbing in an Escape. If one pump already burned out and a new one is acting the same it is likely an external issue. Before making adjustments to the pump I would check to make sure all fittings are tight and that the strainer isn't clogged or cracked.

If you do feel compelled to adjust the pump it is tough without gauges as you have no reference to where you were and where you are going. I've attached a diagram I found online that clearly shows which screw is which and has the appropriate amount of turns if you start with it turned all the way out. The Shurflo manual doesn't show you which is which and explains the bypass and pressure settings only generically.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg pump.JPG (31.9 KB, 383 views)
File Type: jpg 4008-pump-adjustment.jpg (164.2 KB, 54 views)
File Type: jpg bypass.JPG (79.7 KB, 30 views)
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Old 02-26-2019, 03:03 PM   #6
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For it to be a recirculation issue the piping would have to be configured to allow flow back to the return side of the pump. That is not possible with the stock plumbing in an Escape. If one pump already burned out and a new one is acting the same it is likely an external issue. Before making adjustments to the pump I would check to make sure all fittings are tight and that the strainer isn't clogged or cracked.

If you do feel compelled to adjust the pump it is tough without gauges as you have no reference to where you were and where you are going. I've attached a diagram I found online that clearly shows which screw is which and has the appropriate amount of turns if you start with it turned all the way out. The Shurflo manual doesn't show you which is which and explains the bypass and pressure settings only generically.
Agreed. The only time I would adjust the pump pressure settings first is if the pressure at all the faucets is normal or high and there is no air in the lines(spurting or fine bubbles indicates air). If this is not the case you either have air in the lines/or getting in the lines, a pump prime problem(usually related to leaks anyway!) or a problem with a stuck valve in the pump itself. My bet since the new pump is doing the same thing as the old that you have air getting in somewhere and the pump is losing prime.

I also do not leave the trailer without shutting the pump off.
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Old 02-26-2019, 04:16 PM   #7
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A. How do I prime a self priming pump? And
B. Pondering for awhile, I could only think of a valve to the water heater as a culprit but its tucked away well outta sight.
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Old 02-26-2019, 06:41 PM   #8
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A. How do I prime a self priming pump? And
B. Pondering for awhile, I could only think of a valve to the water heater as a culprit but its tucked away well outta sight.
A.Yes the pump is self priming, it is also a positive displacement pump so air is the enemy. A volume of Air gets smaller when pressure is increased while the same volume of water does not get appreciably smaller. The water is therefore forced out of the pump while the air just gets smaller and larger. So enough gobble de gook what do I do Two things can be done 1. open the cold faucet closest to the pump and let the pump run and it Should push the air out and pump water. If this does not happen then 2.check the connections on the inlet side of the pump for leaks (air being sucked in)...make sure they are tight...do not use a lot of pressure...big wrench...since you can warp the fitting. Check the little filter for clogging, broken cover and bad connections too.

B. Someone can correct me but I think the valves are on the water heater supply, on the city water hook up and inside the pump itself but I would not look at the pump first as it is new, unless you have had a lot of particles in the water that got by the filter. The city water valve would be spitting out water if it was stuck...don't know about the water heater one but I would not think it was the culprit as the pump pressurizes both hot and cold so should not cause a loop.

When the pump is on does anything come out of the faucet?
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Old 02-26-2019, 07:03 PM   #9
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Hi Ian. Thanks for your advice. The pump functions normally as far as it pumps clear hot and cold water just like it should and pressure is fine. It just runs on and on so long as the pump switch is "on", it never stops. The pumps both old and new seem fine, they just run, run, run until the first died. Switch off, all stops. Switch on, sequence repeats.
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Old 02-26-2019, 07:16 PM   #10
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How about where you pump the antifreeze into the system. Is that open?
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