Water pump constantly runs

[Greggo]

My water pump runs as long as its on. At first I thought it was just refilling the hot water tank but cant be the case, it never stops. Any ideas?

I'm thinking a valve has failed and water simply keeps recirculating.

Ive already burned one out, at this rate, Ill be replacing another soon enough.

Greg

[Fun&Sun]

Hi Greggo, there is an Allen wrench adjusting screw on the top. Turn the screw till the pump stops, I can’t remember which way. I had the same problem and contacted Escape and with a couple of adjustments the pump has been fine since. Good luck

[Greggo]

Thanks! Im on it, hope that works. My original pump suddenly started non-stop running a few months ago, thats why I suspect a valve. I apparently left the pump on and it burned itself out while we were out playing.

[cpaharley2008]

Lesson learned, never leave your trailer pump on while leaving the trailer unattended. Leaks can wreck a vacation far from home. I only turn on the pump while inside or sitting outside. If we leave, the pump is off.

[rubicon327]

For it to be a recirculation issue the piping would have to be configured to allow flow back to the return side of the pump. That is not possible with the stock plumbing in an Escape. If one pump already burned out and a new one is acting the same it is likely an external issue. Before making adjustments to the pump I would check to make sure all fittings are tight and that the strainer isn't clogged or cracked.

If you do feel compelled to adjust the pump it is tough without gauges as you have no reference to where you were and where you are going. I've attached a diagram I found online that clearly shows which screw is which and has the appropriate amount of turns if you start with it turned all the way out. The Shurflo manual doesn't show you which is which and explains the bypass and pressure settings only generically.

[Ian and Sue]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

For it to be a recirculation issue the piping would have to be configured to allow flow back to the return side of the pump. That is not possible with the stock plumbing in an Escape. If one pump already burned out and a new one is acting the same it is likely an external issue. Before making adjustments to the pump I would check to make sure all fittings are tight and that the strainer isn't clogged or cracked.

If you do feel compelled to adjust the pump it is tough without gauges as you have no reference to where you were and where you are going. I've attached a diagram I found online that clearly shows which screw is which and has the appropriate amount of turns if you start with it turned all the way out. The Shurflo manual doesn't show you which is which and explains the bypass and pressure settings only generically.

Agreed. The only time I would adjust the pump pressure settings first is if the pressure at all the faucets is normal or high and there is no air in the lines(spurting or fine bubbles indicates air). If this is not the case you either have air in the lines/or getting in the lines, a pump prime problem(usually related to leaks anyway!) or a problem with a stuck valve in the pump itself. My bet since the new pump is doing the same thing as the old that you have air getting in somewhere and the pump is losing prime.

I also do not leave the trailer without shutting the pump off.

[Greggo]

A. How do I prime a self priming pump? And
B. Pondering for awhile, I could only think of a valve to the water heater as a culprit but its tucked away well outta sight.

[Ian and Sue]

Originally Posted by Greggo

A. How do I prime a self priming pump? And
B. Pondering for awhile, I could only think of a valve to the water heater as a culprit but its tucked away well outta sight.

A.Yes the pump is self priming, it is also a positive displacement pump so air is the enemy. A volume of Air gets smaller when pressure is increased while the same volume of water does not get appreciably smaller. The water is therefore forced out of the pump while the air just gets smaller and larger. So enough gobble de gook what do I do Two things can be done 1. open the cold faucet closest to the pump and let the pump run and it Should push the air out and pump water. If this does not happen then 2.check the connections on the inlet side of the pump for leaks (air being sucked in)...make sure they are tight...do not use a lot of pressure...big wrench...since you can warp the fitting. Check the little filter for clogging, broken cover and bad connections too.

B. Someone can correct me but I think the valves are on the water heater supply, on the city water hook up and inside the pump itself but I would not look at the pump first as it is new, unless you have had a lot of particles in the water that got by the filter. The city water valve would be spitting out water if it was stuck...don't know about the water heater one but I would not think it was the culprit as the pump pressurizes both hot and cold so should not cause a loop.

When the pump is on does anything come out of the faucet?

[Greggo]

Hi Ian. Thanks for your advice. The pump functions normally as far as it pumps clear hot and cold water just like it should and pressure is fine. It just runs on and on so long as the pump switch is "on", it never stops. The pumps both old and new seem fine, they just run, run, run until the first died. Switch off, all stops. Switch on, sequence repeats.

[McBride]

How about where you pump the antifreeze into the system. Is that open?

[Greggo]

Hmmmm...sounds interesting but I dont know where that is. Never done it.

Greg

[Ian and Sue]

Originally Posted by Greggo

Hi Ian. Thanks for your advice. The pump functions normally as far as it pumps clear hot and cold water just like it should and pressure is fine. It just runs on and on so long as the pump switch is "on", it never stops. The pumps both old and new seem fine, they just run, run, run until the first died. Switch off, all stops. Switch on, sequence repeats.

Hmmm usually the pumps are pre set for the correct pressure. The adjustments are to set the pressure the pump comes on and the pressure it shuts off. So either the off is not correct...might be worth adjusting slightly and see if it goes off or you are losing pressure somewhere else....I would look at things like faucets not shut completely off...including outside shower, the city water hook up has a one way valve that could be stuck open(normally only lets water into camper but not out) and leaking or the hot water heater blow off is stuck. If there are no air bubbles (think like soda water) then it is not a leak on the inlet side and your pressure is good I would look at a loss of pressure on the outlet side which should show up as a leak too. If you leave the pump running does the tank run out of water?

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by Greggo

Hmmmm...sounds interesting but I dont know where that is. Never done it.

Greg

If you did get this option, it is the Ez-Winterization option, under the bed, clear plastic hose connected to a 3 way valve, one way allows the pump to pump antifreeze into the system, other is off. So if it is open you are sucking air and the pump should run.

[Greggo]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

If you did get this option, it is the Ez-Winterization option, under the bed, clear plastic hose connected to a 3 way valve, one way allows the pump to pump antifreeze into the system, other is off. So if it is open you are sucking air and the pump should run.

I dont have that option but it sure sounds like a good lead. Or like something like a fitting or connection working itself loose or a cracked line. No leaks or puddles tho.

[Viajante]

Tighten the supply line into the pump. Or, disconnect supply line, check that the washer is seated, reconnect and tighten.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Greggo

My water pump runs as long as its on. At first I thought it was just refilling the hot water tank but cant be the case, it never stops. Any ideas?

I'm thinking a valve has failed and water simply keeps recirculating.

The water heater tank doesn't empty and get refilled; the water just flows through it... so that's not the problem.

It does sound like it is recirculating...

Originally Posted by rubicon327

For it to be a recirculation issue the piping would have to be configured to allow flow back to the return side of the pump. That is not possible with the stock plumbing in an Escape.
...
The Shurflo manual doesn't show you which is which and explains the bypass and pressure settings only generically.

The Shurflo instructions shown explain that the pump's valve assembly internally recirculates (bypasses) flow, with an increasing bypass rate as pressure rises. This allows the pump to keep running continuously under more conditions than a non-bypassing pump (so there's less annoying on-off cycling and surging), but the pump shouldn't keep running once all faucets are closed because then the pressure rises, so the pressure switch turns the pump off. If the bypass valve is allowing so much flow that the pump can never get up to the shutoff pressure - or if the shutoff pressure is set too high - the pump will just keep running. This is the condition described in the last part of each of the two documents posted above.

This would be easier to troubleshoot if the pump's output pressure were known... but most of us don't have a water pressure gauge. Even then, the amount of bypass flow cannot be seen. I have a gauge on my adjustable regulator for incoming water, but I would have to rig up some adapters to connect it to the pump output, if I were doing this.

[Greggo]

Brian. Makes sense. Maybe Ill crank the flow afjustment on the pump down a little which theoretically increases the pressure. I'll see if things change. Promising.

Greg

[Greg A]

One simple item to check that has been a culprit from time to time is the Strainer/Filter if you have one. Some folks have found that the screw on clear plastic piece has cracked or it is loose and not hand tight allowing air to bleed in.

[Ian and Sue]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

The water heater tank doesn't empty and get refilled; the water just flows through it... so that's not the problem.

It does sound like it is recirculating...


The Shurflo instructions shown explain that the pump's valve assembly internally recirculates (bypasses) flow, with an increasing bypass rate as pressure rises. This allows the pump to keep running continuously under more conditions than a non-bypassing pump (so there's less annoying on-off cycling and surging), but the pump shouldn't keep running once all faucets are closed because then the pressure rises, so the pressure switch turns the pump off. If the bypass valve is allowing so much flow that the pump can never get up to the shutoff pressure - or if the shutoff pressure is set too high - the pump will just keep running. This is the condition described in the last part of each of the two documents posted above.

This would be easier to troubleshoot if the pump's output pressure were known... but most of us don't have a water pressure gauge. Even then, the amount of bypass flow cannot be seen. I have a gauge on my adjustable regulator for incoming water, but I would have to rig up some adapters to connect it to the pump output, if I were doing this.

When I got my used camper it had been in Las Vegas for a few years where they have hard water. My pump would run intermittently (usually waking me up!) with nothing on. It turned out to be a piece of the calcium carbonate (hardness) was stuck in the pump head blocking one of the valves open and thus bleeding water and pressure back to the tank causing the pump to run. If this type of thing ends up being the culprit in your case I would take some extra time to flush the water tank and hot water tank to get the settled gunk out.

[JPSpins]

Ditto for the filter. I had a constantly running pump, ETI suggested giving the filter cap a nudge. A fraction of a fraction of a turn and it was fine.