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Old 11-12-2015, 08:07 AM   #21
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I think the anode rods that last a long time are aluminum. I don't think they provide the protection that the magnesium rods provide. Aluminum may be false economy?
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Old 11-12-2015, 08:08 AM   #22
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LOL.... Sorry for confuzzling things, Dave.
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Old 11-12-2015, 08:57 AM   #23
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How can I tell if my anode is aluminum or magnesium? It's pretty light, so maybe aluminum, but pure magnesium is even lighter than aluminum, no?
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Old 11-12-2015, 09:14 AM   #24
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Not sure how to tell them apart. I looked them up on a website and they are both 3/4 inch dia. They have a little different texture I think. I am using magnesium, I know from the packaging. We always used magnesium on water heaters in the Muni pools and changed them each year. Your tax $ at work. I tend to replace the cheap stuff regularly in hopes of a long term payback. Motor oil, grease, filters, it's all maintenance. There used to be a department store here whose motto was "Quality is Economy" and my dad used to say, "The best is none too good." So I just spend money and keep an eye on things. Off to change the oil in the Accord, 162K and doesn't use a drop. Mobile 1, full synthetic.
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Old 11-12-2015, 09:17 AM   #25
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LOL.... Sorry for confuzzling things, Dave.
Hi: Jim Bennett... How many times of not replacing an anode rod, does it take to save up for a 5.0TA? Alf
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Old 11-12-2015, 09:19 AM   #26
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How can I tell if my anode is aluminum or magnesium? It's pretty light, so maybe aluminum, but pure magnesium is even lighter than aluminum, no?
If you heat for a while with a gas torch and it starts on fire, it is magnesium.
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Old 11-12-2015, 09:42 AM   #27
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Hi: Jim Bennett... How many times of not replacing an anode rod, does it take to save up for a 5.0TA? Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
'bout 3, 000.
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Old 11-12-2015, 09:45 AM   #28
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My understanding is that if white stuff comes out on a water heater flush you're OK, but if green colored chunks start coming out it spells trouble. Not sure if that's the case since I've never had anything but white, but that's what a bunch of experienced folks have told me to watch for.
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Old 11-12-2015, 09:49 AM   #29
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Green chunks coming out. Doesn't matter from where, never good.
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Old 11-12-2015, 09:54 AM   #30
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Old 11-12-2015, 10:43 AM   #31
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This discussion raises the question about getting the optional electrical connection on the water heater. I ordered it and do like the convenience at times with full hookups. We have found, however, that propane heats quickly, stays hot and we would eliminate some of the annual maintenance, the need for the anode and the element. If we had to do it again we would probably not order the dual heater. Just a thought for those making their build list. Comments and thoughts??
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Old 11-12-2015, 11:23 AM   #32
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Much appreciation to everyone for educating me. I'm relieved to learn that the white chunks are normal!

Scott
I just winterized our new (6 months old) Escape and cleaned out a surprising amount of white sludge from the water heater. Looks like our anode is doing its job - but I better stockpile a spare or two. I'm a fan of magnesium - at an additional cost of perhaps $5.

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Old 11-12-2015, 11:26 AM   #33
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I'm unable to understand why magnesium would be better. If it lasts longer, then it's not doing its job ( being the sacrificial metal ).
So, presumably, it doesn't last as long?
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Old 11-12-2015, 11:35 AM   #34
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I think Suburban manual recommends magnesium, unless it lasts for less than a year, then aluminum. It is dependent on the water conditions in the area you are mostly in.
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Old 11-12-2015, 11:54 AM   #35
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I used a wet vac to suck out the water heater and then a small tube to really clean the bottom of the water heater. With the trailer being only 6 weeks old, it was pretty clean anyway. Loren
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Old 11-12-2015, 01:14 PM   #36
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I'm unable to understand why magnesium would be better. If it lasts longer, then it's not doing its job ( being the sacrificial metal ).
So, presumably, it doesn't last as long?
When immersed in water, magnesium gives of a larger negative current than aluminum. It will therefore disintegrate faster and theoretically will be more aggressive than aluminum at protecting the tank. Most home water heaters come with aluminum anodes installed by the manufacturers. The guesses why......the second two don't count$
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Old 11-12-2015, 08:44 PM   #37
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Oops, that was supposed to be three guesses why.....
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Old 11-12-2015, 09:18 PM   #38
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As a yute, I read several paperbacks of the day by Vance Packard. The Waste Makers certainly colored the way I viewed the American manufacturing community and its descent into the unconscionable hell of planned obsolescence and shoddy construction. This trend has disgusted me for about 50 years now and it isn't getting much better. Packard's Hidden Persuaders was good too. It led me to take Propaganda Analysis in college, probably the one single course that served me and the thousands of honest tax paying citizens who expected and got the best bang for their tax dollar. I always balanced dependability against cost with safety being tantamount. Salis Populi Suprema Lex. Thank You
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Old 11-12-2015, 10:07 PM   #39
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This discussion raises the question about getting the optional electrical connection on the water heater. I ordered it and do like the convenience at times with full hookups. We have found, however, that propane heats quickly, stays hot and we would eliminate some of the annual maintenance, the need for the anode and the element.
...
Comments and thoughts??
I don't follow this - how would getting a water heater without the electric heating element eliminate the need for the anode? It is a cathodic protection device, not a heat source; it works by an electrochemical reaction, but has nothing to do with power feeding the electric heating element.

I have three RV water heaters. Two are Atwood units with aluminum tanks which do not use a protective anode; the other is a predecessor of the Suburban, does not have an electric heating element, and does have an anode (which I can't get out).
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Old 11-12-2015, 10:25 PM   #40
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I don't follow this - how would getting a water heater without the electric heating element eliminate the need for the anode? It is a cathodic protection device, not a heat source; it works by an electrochemical reaction, but has nothing to do with power feeding the electric heating element.
Absolutely correct, Brian. Water heaters that use propane or natural gas need an anode so that they can sacrifice their lives allowing the tank to go on living! The heat source is irrelevant in this discussion.
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