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Old 05-02-2014, 05:43 PM   #1
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What size circuit at home for the Escape?

Assuming I'd want to draw juice from the house to the Escape for both refrigerator and A/C at the same time while preparing for a trip on a hot Maryland summer day (my guess at a maximum draw), what size circuit should I install -- 30A? Or would a 20A suffice? I have only 15A lines, so I assume I need to run a new line anyway. So is there any reason not to go for the 30A circuit, assuming I've got enough reserve on the house panel? Are these the right questions? Thanks.
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Old 05-02-2014, 05:55 PM   #2
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I would STRONGLY recommend an RV 30 amp circuit.

I have run the A/C and fridge on a 20 amp circuit but there is very little margin. And what if you need to run something else and the battery is a bit low?

TT-30R, correct wire, and a 30 amp breaker.
http://www.rvpowerprotection.com/Lin...%20Service.pdf
Connecticut Electric 30 Amp RV Power Outlet-CESMPS13HR at The Home Depot
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Old 05-02-2014, 05:57 PM   #3
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I'm on a 15 amp garage circuit at home, it will keep the refer and converter going. I have run the a/c also for a short time, if need be I'd turn off the converter and just let the solar keep the battery charged and operate the a/c. Using the 30 amp wire at home is bulky and awkward, using a 15 amp extension cord is easy. If you will not operate all 3 simultaneously then go with a 20 amp, but if you are going to use it as a guest cottage, go with the 30 amp, your choice your $$$.
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Old 05-02-2014, 06:41 PM   #4
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Follow Doug's advise if you plan to use your AC. Low wattage will damage the AC compressor. The cost of the 30amp installation is not that much more if you are adding a circuit.
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Old 05-02-2014, 08:49 PM   #5
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The 30-amp cable is awkward, but if you need 20-amp capacity, what would you use for an extension cord instead? Ordinary cords are only good for 15 amps, and a special 20-amp cord seems like more of a hassle than just using that big ugly 30-amp that you already have.

If you're using the 30-amp cord anyway, and running a special circuit in the house anyway, I can't see the logic in making it only a 20-amp circuit and using an adapter between the trailer plug and the outlet.

Personally, I have a larger RV as well as the small trailer, and since my garage had a 50-amp 240-volt circuit anyway, I changed over the outlet to the normal 50-amp style as used by RVs, and plug into that. For a trailer that just needs to run small stuff, I use a regular 15-amp outlet and cord, plus an adapter. There's no point in 50A/240V for the Escape, of course.
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Old 05-02-2014, 11:58 PM   #6
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Ok you all lost me! can't you just run an extension cord from the house? is the problem that all those appliances would be too much ? So just the heat would be ok or just the refrigerator ? I'm just a little stupid about electricity.
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Old 05-03-2014, 12:35 AM   #7
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Hi fox hunt,

Yes you can run an extension cord from the house ... But if you plan to run the A/C I. The escape you will run the chance to trip the circuit breaker.

I speak from experience, I was testing the AC unit and it tripped the breaker
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Old 05-03-2014, 01:09 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Fox hunt View Post
Ok you all lost me! can't you just run an extension cord from the house.
Yes, as long as no more than 15 amps is needed... or less if other stuff in the house is on the same circuit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fox hunt View Post
is the problem that all those appliances would be too much ? So just the heat would be ok or just the refrigerator ?
Yes, exactly, which is why the suggestions to just use an ordinary cord to a regular outlet, but only if the air conditioner (or a portable heater on high setting) is not used.
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Old 05-03-2014, 05:33 AM   #9
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Thanks everyone. 30A it is. And extra thanks to you, Jamman, for the attachments.
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Old 05-03-2014, 07:19 AM   #10
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Thanks everyone. 30A it is. And extra thanks to you, Jamman, for the attachments.
Hi: abby... If anyone can blow a fuse it's ME!!! We use the 30 amp cable from the trailer and a step down connector for the receptacle in the garage.
I'm going to have our fuse panel changed out for a larger breaker panel with some extra spaces like one dedicated 30 amp for the trailer. This will be mega $$$$'s as the house has "Aluminium Wire" Alf
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Old 05-03-2014, 08:06 AM   #11
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Ok you all lost me! can't you just run an extension cord from the house? is the problem that all those appliances would be too much ? So just the heat would be ok or just the refrigerator ? I'm just a little stupid about electricity.
See this for a decent introduction to RV power.
RV Electrical Systems
Especially the section titled "Figuring AC Electrical Requirements" for some real world numbers - and the ETI installed Dometic microwave DOES draw 1000 Watts. If you have the ETI installed surge/power protection/monitor you can see the number of amps being used on the display.
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Old 05-03-2014, 08:40 AM   #12
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the ETI installed Dometic microwave DOES draw 1000 Watts
Only 1000 watts? That's quite low. Is the electrical rating 1000 watts (corresponding to pehaps 800 W of electricity), or is the micrwave power 1000 watts, with a resulting larger value for electrical demand?
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Old 05-03-2014, 10:56 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
Only 1000 watts? That's quite low. Is the electrical rating 1000 watts (corresponding to pehaps 800 W of electricity), or is the micrwave power 1000 watts, with a resulting larger value for electrical demand?
It draws 8.3 amps per the spec sheet and has 700 watts microwave power.
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Old 05-03-2014, 11:45 AM   #14
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Only 1000 watts? That's quite low. Is the electrical rating 1000 watts (corresponding to pehaps 800 W of electricity), or is the micrwave power 1000 watts, with a resulting larger value for electrical demand?
I was obviously not proof-reading very well when I typed that!
Trying again:
Only 1000 watts? That's quite low. Is the electrical rating 1000 watts (corresponding to perhaps 800 W of microwaves), or is the microwave power 1000 watts, with a resulting larger value for electrical demand?
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It draws 8.3 amps per the spec sheet and has 700 watts microwave power.
So it is a low-power model - thanks!
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Old 05-03-2014, 02:51 PM   #15
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Hi: abby... If anyone can blow a fuse it's ME!!! We use the 30 amp cable from the trailer and a step down connector for the receptacle in the garage.
I'm going to have our fuse panel changed out for a larger breaker panel with some extra spaces like one dedicated 30 amp for the trailer. This will be mega $$$$'s as the house has "Aluminium Wire" Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
Bummer Alf. Luckily we have copper and enough room on the house panel to use two slots if need be for the 30A circuit. And with Jamman's attachments, I think I will be able to talk intelligently with my electrician (well faking it is more like it). Only down side is that it'll be over 75 feet from panel to outlet. I'm wondering if I'll need a thicker gauge wire than normal. Then another 40ft to the trailer. Good luck with your wiring job.

Glenn
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