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Old 01-22-2016, 01:34 PM   #61
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See here....http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f9...tml#post125094
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Old 01-23-2016, 10:00 AM   #62
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Location: Halifax, Nova Scotia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg A View Post
Probably have that or similar lock assembly available at Camping World and there should be one of those close by in Florida. I'd just remove it and go over and match it up.
Well spent all of yesterday dealing with the door issue,softer weighing everything out decided to follow your advise Greg.

As I mentioned we could not leave the trailer one of us had to stay inside in order to not get locked out. What I learned......
- regular locksmiths don't deal with RV locks
-There were two mobile locksmiths that did they wanted $200 & $236 respectively to come and they both suggested replacing the lock
- regular RV dealers need you to bring the trailer there- too much work once you're set up.
- the lock requires star shaped bits, which aren't something I would normally have with me
- it takes a special tool(key) to remove the cylinders and they are fairly expensive, you need to change both or use two different keys
- ours was fairly urgent, we didn't have time to contact the company and wait for replacement cylinders
- the easiest thing was to replace the whole unit, it was fairly easy to do, and I bought the exact same Bauer lock - this seemed to be a good idea, as Escape appears to have cut part of the dead bolt to fit in around the rubber, having the same lock allowed me to just use the old one in the new lock
- the RV guy said what most of you have said the top lock can be opened pretty much by anyone with a master key including thieves
-I know a lot on the forum are suggesting only using the dead bolt from inside- I've decided when I leave the trailer and want to ensure it's as securely locked as possible I'm going to use both. If I'm not too worried about it I'll go with the top one only.
-I will keep the star shaped bit and a screw driver inside in case there is a chance I get locked inside.
-I don't lock the hatches very often so I guess if I get locked out I could still get in..
- the RV guy said things go wrong with these locks all the time, so on that note my plan is to buy and extra lock for $30 or so just in case I need it again.
- it appears the only somewhat secure lock is the dead bolt.

Thanks to those that tried to help.
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Old 01-23-2016, 12:41 PM   #63
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Do you have any particulars on the lock you replaced it with, like part # or some such? Might be a good idea to have a spare as mines a 2014 too.
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Old 01-23-2016, 02:33 PM   #64
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Glad to hear you found a working solution. I was thinking same as you and padlin, it might be something to have a spare of if its around $30.
Now you can both get back to enjoying FL.
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Old 01-23-2016, 03:26 PM   #65
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My spare is the torx driver in the front box, in case the door needs removing.
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Old 01-23-2016, 05:58 PM   #66
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Originally Posted by Chapitre View Post
- the RV guy said things go wrong with these locks all the time, so on that note my plan is to buy and extra lock for $30 or so just in case I need it again.
My inclination is to do the same, keep spares handy. But then I realize if I kept spares of all the critical items that could break, I'd have a second Escape along for the ride. And if I don't keep a full inventory I wouldn't have that one part needed.

Another dilemma. I suppose I'll just carry a credit card.
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Old 01-23-2016, 08:17 PM   #67
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And then there is Amazon & if you have Amazon Prime, the upgrade to 1 day shipping is not that much $. So, as long as you have basic tools, a credit card & Amazon, you'll probably be OK. (If not available at Amazon, just remember Next Day Air)
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