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Old 11-24-2014, 09:27 PM   #21
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Tough call and some tough decisions. But also YOUR budget.

If I have one suggestion... it's to NOT plan your future around your past. We've all been there and repeating makes no new memories.

There is no crystal ball (otherwise I'd know the winning lottery numbers!), but I planned Ten Forward for my "unknown." I didn't want to deny myself an experience because the weather wasn't going to be good (cooking outside?), or a particular campground required FSC (no potta potties allowed), etc., etc., etc.

Deciding items on a build sheet is stressful. But, if you're already spending BUCKS for an asset, make certain you're not shorting yourself and your future.

I laugh when folks talk about issues with gray and black water tanks. Including emptying and winterizing? Really, like THAT's a problem? Not for me and I've never hooked up to go empty. It's called a TOTE and you can build one for less than $20.

Lastly, no one can miss what they've never had. I've HAD and I'll never go back. YMMV.
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Old 11-24-2014, 09:34 PM   #22
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This refers to connecting the trailer's sewer to the campground's. Can't see how that would apply to the discussion here but I'm going to give in and concede that everyone should have a shower and toilet in their trailer and let it go at that.
I'll never surrender/concede: I guess I'll have to carry my Plumbing Codebook with me to establish a defensible position, and not use the sink at Those campgrounds.

Seriously, I had never encountered an issue when we used the tent trailer. Grey water is dealt with quite differently than sewage by Code. We will, however, use a closed container with an appropriate fitting.

Keep up the good fight, Karen.
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Old 11-24-2014, 09:37 PM   #23
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At almost age 66, I'm not dragging a tote or carrying a five gallon pail.
Ten years from now, it's even less likely I would do that.
It's something to consider. You're not going to get any younger.
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Old 11-24-2014, 09:38 PM   #24
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For what it's worth, ETI will build a 19A, you just have to ask. Mine will be done around Christmas.
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Old 11-24-2014, 09:42 PM   #25
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I'd rather throw an empty $20 tote in the back of my truck (and not need it) than disconnect Ten Forward and hookup to my tug to empty at some dump station. YMMV
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Old 11-24-2014, 09:48 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
Sure, but do you really want the bikes on the trailer? It is a small modification that is better done at the factory than later; on the other hand, some people find they're better on the tug roof, for better trailer stability, for smoother ride for the bikes, and so the bikes go with them when they leave the campsite to get to trailhead.

Not questioning this choice, but just curious for context: what is your current thinking on what the tow vehicle will be? In an earlier discussion you mentioned a Highlander, but not many people buy those in 2WD...

We have a "Dometic" branded microwave oven in our motorhome. It died and was replaced under warranty, so I do get the logic, but I don't think it's any different from home appliances, other than the availability of the mounting bezel (which is significant). Ours was made by LG, and everything visible - other than the bezel - is normal cheap household stuff. At the price I agree with the choice... just don't expect "ruggedized".

At $130 it looks expensive, but if you change your mind later and buy the connector parts and do the installation I think the ETI price will start to look very reasonable. You can do it yourself later, so if unsure of the value I agree that it makes sense to leave it out... I'm just saying if you haven't seen the parts prices you might not appreciate the value.
Thank for responding, Brian.
We are now discussing bike transport options. We like your stated reasons for tug roof transport.

Our tow vehicle research shows that 2WD/FWD may be what is the available deal, and, depending on the mfr's specs., may work. We have 6 months or so of research and deal searching. Or, we may end up with 4WD because of what is available.

Good tip on the Dometic appliance.

I'll be going back and researching the detachable cord possibilities again, to verify costs. It's just that spending money when I don't see the value always bugs me.

Thanks, again, for responding. We value your input, and indeed, the input of all the members of this forum. Thank you all.

Don & Teresa
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Old 11-25-2014, 01:31 AM   #27
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Yes, the ordinary "P" traps look like a "P" but mine looks more like filled-in "P"--sort of a "P" with a bowl. Didn't know if it was still called the same.
Ah, right, the three-dimensional P... about the same idea, but compact. With no photo, I didn't realize that was the type used. It's a trap, anyway, if maybe not a "P-trap".

A typical example is the Camco 37262; that seems to be just called a "drain trap".
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Old 11-25-2014, 01:34 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KarenH View Post
This refers to connecting the trailer's sewer to the campground's. Can't see how that would apply to the discussion here but I'm going to give in and concede that everyone should have a shower and toilet in their trailer and let it go at that.
I would personally want the toilet, but I wouldn't accept that everyone needs one!
I agree that the donut doesn't apply to the proposed Escape 17A configuration, but the requirement for a sealed connection does - that's why I'm suggesting a fitting on the container (bucket with lid) to which the hose from the trailer is attached, so it's not open.
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Old 11-25-2014, 01:36 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
At almost age 66, I'm not dragging a tote or carrying a five gallon pail.
Ten years from now, it's even less likely I would do that.
It's something to consider. You're not going to get any younger.
Good point... and the reason that I suggested wheels for the tote (whether now or years later).
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Old 11-25-2014, 02:07 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by dfandrews View Post

I'll be going back and researching the detachable cord possibilities again, to verify costs. It's just that spending money when I don't see the value always bugs me.

Don & Teresa
I converted my Scamp to a detachable power cord. It wasn't cheap to do, probably about half the cost of an installed one and it took a bit of time.

For my 19 I just ordered it with the detachable cord. So much better than pushing a muddy cord back inside the trailer. If mine's still a bit wet and muddy it goes in the box with other wet outdoor stuff.

The purpose of a sink trap is to prevent sewer gas back ups. If the sink drain is going outside to a bucket no trap is necessary.

As Donna mentioned, it's better to have a more sealed container than a bucket and both of us have made homemade ones that can be carried to places to dump. Commercial totes tend to be a little on the large size. Mine's 5 gal. and easy to carry.

And lastly, no matter where you end up carrying your bikes it's worthwhile having the receiver put on. It can be used for other things. Easier now than having it welded on afterwards.

Ron
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