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Old 11-25-2014, 10:51 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by gabeck View Post
Hmmmm...this is interesting...um ...we don't actually have any tanks . Winterizing involves blowing out the water line screwing off the trap cap to drian - and done ! We almost always take full hook-ups and just drain into the sewer hook- up via the hose drain . No issues with the porta-potty . We also have a smaller ac/dc fridge ( that has always worked even in some scorching heat ) because it allowed for more floor space with turned out perfect for us . We are very comfortable in our 15A , would not change a thing . We are 68 and 73 if it ever gets too much trouble it'll likely be time to quite ( not any time soon ) . We have had a trailer with toilets and tanks in the past , not missing anything . Not worried about resale ....one of our off-spring will inherit ! ��
Gabi and Wolf's trailer is gorgeous. To start with, the layout is great, plus the adornments they have done, have spruced it up very nicely.

I have always maintained, that if one was willing to go without the bath, the 15A is the ideal trailer.
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Old 11-25-2014, 12:28 PM   #42
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A couple of suggestions -

Even some "primitive" campgrounds place some limits on trailers that are not self contained. For example. at the Imperial Dam BLM Long Term Camping area, you must camp within 500' of a vault or restroom if you don't have at least a 10 gallon holding tank. Since it is a 3000 acre camping area, (and an interesting place to spend the winter for $180.00) that will limit you to some very crowded parts of the area.

As to the Maxx Fan, in the southwest I used mine far more often than the AC, even in campgrounds with hookups. It is much quieter, and in moist climates, moves enough air to reduce condensation. Unless Escape is willing to drop the trailer piece a great deal to build without it, I believe you will miss it. Lastly, if there is any chance that you will wish to change to a pair of 6V batteries, it requires a frame modification which is quite expensive to retrofit.
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Old 11-25-2014, 01:18 PM   #43
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A couple of suggestions -

Even some "primitive" campgrounds place some limits on trailers that are not self contained. For example. at the Imperial Dam BLM Long Term Camping area, you must camp within 500' of a vault or restroom if you don't have at least a 10 gallon holding tank. Since it is a 3000 acre camping area, (and an interesting place to spend the winter for $180.00) that will limit you to some very crowded parts of the area.

As to the Maxx Fan, in the southwest I used mine far more often than the AC, even in campgrounds with hookups. It is much quieter, and in moist climates, moves enough air to reduce condensation. Unless Escape is willing to drop the trailer piece a great deal to build without it, I believe you will miss it. Lastly, if there is any chance that you will wish to change to a pair of 6V batteries, it requires a frame modification which is quite expensive to retrofit.
Jon,
That is a very unusual example that you cite. We clearly will not chose to camp there.

Regarding the MaxxFan, your comment (and a couple of previous ones) make it sound like the option by ETI is to provide the fan. We specifically asked Crystal about it, because the website says, in the Features list: "Maxx Fan Roof Vent". The standard equipment is a MaxxFan assembly that includes the 12V-powered exhaust fan.
The options are remote control, different roof covers (translucent, smoked), and a higher capacity fan.
We certainly will be using the MaxxFan as our primary ventilation and temperature mitigation appliance.

Thanks for the concerns.
Don
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Old 11-25-2014, 01:23 PM   #44
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What in the world do tent campers do with their gray (dish) water or are they not allowed as they're not self-contained?
Being a tent camper up until picking up our Escape last May, I dealt with campgrounds (not RV resorts) for quite a while. They all tend to have a sink for doing dishes and also to drain the grey water. We normally used a basin to wash dishes and then just dumped into the sink.
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Old 11-25-2014, 01:33 PM   #45
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I have always maintained, that if one was willing to go without the bath, the 15A is the ideal trailer.
I agree with this. I looked at a 15A at ETI. This is by far the most efficient use of space in any Escape trailer. We would not have a trailer without a bathroom, but if that's not a priority, then by all means.
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Old 11-25-2014, 02:34 PM   #46
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As a single traveler, I figure that the day I can't empty a 3-gallon bucket of gray water every other day and walk 100 yards to a facility several times a day is the same day I won't be able to hitch and unhitch a trailer, level it with the manual jack, load it with groceries, load the truck with firewood, get up into the truck bed, or even bend over to lower the stabilizing jacks. My hard-sided (and warm) "tent" is the cat's meow to me.
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Old 11-25-2014, 02:40 PM   #47
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On the ETI web site it appears that there is a single bed (or a 2 person dinette) at the front end of the trailer and a double bed (or a 4 person dinette?) in the rear of the trailer. How are you going to have sleeping space for 4 grown people? I must have missed something.
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Old 11-25-2014, 03:06 PM   #48
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On the 17A there is a 52 x 76 permanent bed in the front. I believe this is just slightly narrower than a regular double bed so should be adequate for two people.

The very first Escape I looked at in person was a 17A. I was sold on them, in part due to the owners' enthusiasm, but mostly due to the overall quality of craftsmanship.
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Old 11-25-2014, 03:06 PM   #49
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The purpose of a sink trap is to prevent sewer gas back ups. If the sink drain is going outside to a bucket no trap is necessary.
With an open bucket, I agree. As soon as the container is closed, it becomes a little sewer and I would want a trap (and a vent on the container. The drain fitting Karen mentioned is a trap; I assume that even without a grey waste tank the Escape kitchen sink has a trap... corrections or confirmation welcome.

Quote:
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As Donna mentioned, it's better to have a more sealed container than a bucket and both of us have made homemade ones that can be carried to places to dump. Commercial totes tend to be a little on the large size. Mine's 5 gal. and easy to carry.
True. For this reason, some people have converted the Reliance Hydroller - it's the biggest Reliance water container, but it's on wheels and it is still small by tote standards.
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Old 11-25-2014, 03:10 PM   #50
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i went with the raised axle[15"tires]vs the14" std.tires.A couple of reasons,pull vechile has 18"tires. 4" difference meant god only no's,trailer tires were revolving at 150mph+,while the tow vechile was doing 70mph.
The rotational speed of the trailer's wheels depends only on their size and on the road speed - it doesn't matter what size of the tug's wheels are. Even the smallest Escape tire is large enough that wheel and bearing speed is not a problem at all.
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Old 11-25-2014, 03:12 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by J Mac View Post
On the ETI web site it appears that there is a single bed (or a 2 person dinette) at the front end of the trailer and a double bed (or a 4 person dinette?) in the rear of the trailer. How are you going to have sleeping space for 4 grown people? I must have missed something.
There are two drawings on the ETI/17/layouts tab.
The top one is plan A, and has a 52" x 76" bed on the right (front of trailer). On the left (rear) is a "four person dinette or double bed".
The bottom drawing is plan B, the layout you describe.
Hope this helps.


edit: I wonder if the screen views differently, and incompletely, if you are using a mobile device?
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Old 11-25-2014, 03:18 PM   #52
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You could check with ETI to find out if they would install a grey water tank on your 17A. When I first started looking I asked about installing one on a 15A and they would at a price of $600.
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Old 11-25-2014, 03:23 PM   #53
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In my experience, any campground that has a black water dump station will accept grey water as well.
I agree.

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Also, Brian, as you get older I don't think the wheels are that helpful. Water is heavy!!!
If you plan to lift the tote to dump it in a sink or something like that, wheels won't help with the weight of the water, but if you drag it to the same dump station that you would use with a built-in tank, there's never any need to lift it while it is filled. Maybe tilt it, but that depends on tote design. There's no way around bending down, as that would be required even with a built-in tank and sewer hose.

I'm not planning on a trailer without a grey waste tank, but I do think it is quite manageable (even for someone who can't lift much), as long as one is willing to carry and use an appropriate tote.
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Old 11-25-2014, 04:48 PM   #54
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battery frame mods

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Originally Posted by Vermilye View Post
Lastly, if there is any chance that you will wish to change to a pair of 6V batteries, it requires a frame modification which is quite expensive to retrofit.
Jon,
By any chance, can you describe the frame mods. The standard battery on the 17A is on the rear. I was given to understand that dual 6V batteries would be located similarly, one on each side. Each battery should weigh about 60-65 lbs., and the frame is 1½x3x.1875 wall steel tube, as are the cross members. That's a healthy cross-section (about 5 lb/ft. of steel). And the bike-ready receiver that spans the cross-members is given a rating of 150 lb. So, I'm missing something here

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Old 11-25-2014, 04:54 PM   #55
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Not sure what's involved, but I too was given to understand that converting to twin six-volts was too involved and too expensive to make it desirable.
I'm sticking with my 12V even though I'm due for a new battery soon.
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Old 11-25-2014, 05:52 PM   #56
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The standard battery on the 17A is on the rear. I was given to understand that dual 6V batteries would be located similarly, one on each side. Each battery should weigh about 60-65 lbs., and the frame is 1½x3x.1875 wall steel tube, as are the cross members. That's a healthy cross-section (about 5 lb/ft. of steel). And the bike-ready receiver that spans the cross-members is given a rating of 150 lb. So, I'm missing something here
Don, I think all you're missing is:
  1. the supports from bumper to crossmember will only be in place for one battery unless the dual-battery option is ordered (adding them later would mean welding adjacent to the fiberglass body and re-finishing the weld areas); and,
  2. the spare tire location will likely be off-centre with one battery (for access and balance), but needs to be centred with two batteries.
If I were expecting to have dual batteries later, but only wanted one for now (due to weight and/or cost), I would ask about having the frame and brackets prepared for two, but with only one battery, one battery box, and only single-battery wiring.

Maybe I've missed something?

Also, it probably doesn't change anything about conversion to dual batteries, but are the crossmembers really the same rectangular tubing as the frame and bumper? The crossmembers I've seen are generally angle or z-section, but maybe this one ahead of the bumper for battery support and bike rack prep is the exception.
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Old 11-25-2014, 06:05 PM   #57
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Not sure what's involved, but I too was given to understand that converting to twin six-volts was too involved and too expensive to make it desirable.
I'm sticking with my 12V even though I'm due for a new battery soon.
Just go for a lithium (LiFePO4) battery for more capacity in the same bracket with no conversion required. Oops... that thousand-dollar battery would be too expensive, too.
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Old 11-25-2014, 07:48 PM   #58
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Don, I think all you're missing is...

.
Yup, looks like I need to discuss this w/ETI.

Thanks much, Jon, and Brian and Glenn.

Don
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Old 11-25-2014, 08:46 PM   #59
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Jon,
By any chance, can you describe the frame mods. The standard battery on the 17A is on the rear. I was given to understand that dual 6V batteries would be located similarly, one on each side. Each battery should weigh about 60-65 lbs., and the frame is 1½x3x.1875 wall steel tube, as are the cross members. That's a healthy cross-section (about 5 lb/ft. of steel). And the bike-ready receiver that spans the cross-members is given a rating of 150 lb. So, I'm missing something here

Don
Like Glenn, I don't know exactly what the difference is between the one 12V & two 6v batteries is, but when I purchased my 2011 17B, I was told that I had to decide which battery set I wanted & that it couldn't (without a great deal of expense) be changed after the build
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Old 11-25-2014, 09:23 PM   #60
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Just my opinion, but from a manufacturing engineering point of view it seems kinda goofy to deal with 2 different frame set ups just because of a difference in batteries.......configuration control can get expensive real quick!
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