17A choices and why

[EDarby]

Would love to know the answer to that since I will have to be making that decision.

Originally Posted by Vermilye

Like Glenn, I don't know exactly what the difference is between the one 12V & two 6v batteries is, but when I purchased my 2011 17B, I was told that I had to decide which battery set I wanted & that it couldn't (without a great deal of expense) be changed after the build

[gbaglo]

If you plan to boon dock a lot for longer periods of time, you'll want the extra capacity of the dual 6V.
If you're spending most of your time with hookups, then single 12V will do.
I didn't want to spend the money so I went with single 12V. However, later I bought a generator, and now a couple solar panels for extended stays.

[dfandrews]

Originally Posted by EDarby

Would love to know the answer to that since I will have to be making that decision.

We have a long weekend coming up, I may have time to compose a list of questions to send to ETI. The battery framing question will certainly be one of them.

Results TBA.

Don

[EDarby]

That's great, thanks Don!

Originally Posted by dfandrews

We have a long weekend coming up, I may have time to compose a list of questions to send to ETI. The battery framing question will certainly be one of them.

Results TBA.

Don

[EDarby]

Whoops, just sawthis. Thanks!!!

Originally Posted by gbaglo

If you plan to boon dock a lot for longer periods of time, you'll want the extra capacity of the dual 6V.
If you're spending most of your time with hookups, then single 12V will do.
I didn't want to spend the money so I went with single 12V. However, later I bought a generator, and now a couple solar panels for extended stays.

[dfandrews]

Originally Posted by dfandrews

We have a long weekend coming up, I may have time to compose a list of questions to send to ETI. The battery framing question will certainly be one of them.

Results TBA.

Don

On Nov. 28, I sent a list of questions to ETI. Today, Reace called me, with the answers.

Addition of Batteries: The 17 is now being built with 4"x2"x.125"wall frame back to the axle, then 3"x2"x.125" to rear, including the rear bumper. So, weight of batteries is not an issue. However, enough space for them is. The 12V batteries are of sufficient size that there's not room to just add one. And the spare tire would also have to be raised. Best course of action is to pre-plan with ETI during the build, for future batteries.

MaxxFan: The 17 standard feature is indeed a powered 12V fan.

Weight distribution hitch: choices are Reese Pro-Series, or the Anderson.

[dfandrews]

Originally Posted by dfandrews

On Nov. 28, I sent a list of questions to ETI. Today, Reace called me, with the answers.

Another item we discussed was my addition of LED lighting at the awning. Reace indicated that, if I remove the frig. exterior vent cover above the porch light fixture, I should have enough access inside the wall to run the conductors for the LED tape under the awning.

We also discussed putting a wood panel on the right side of the door, between the top of the base cabinet/bed, and the bottom edge of the overhead cabinet. This would serve as a vision break at the door. Reace mentioned that the door frame and the screen door frame may provide a sufficient barrier that I might not want an additional panel. Anyone have a input regarding that, especially on a 17? If you could provide the max. horizontal measurement from the inside of the wall to the edge of the screen door frame, that would help.

Thanks.

[dfandrews]

Originally Posted by dfandrews

We also discussed putting a wood panel on the right side of the door, between the top of the base cabinet/bed, and the bottom edge of the overhead cabinet. This would serve as a vision break at the door. Reace mentioned that the door frame and the screen door frame may provide a sufficient barrier that I might not want an additional panel.

We got a response, including photos, from Crystal at ETI.
"At its widest point it's 8 1/2" and it is 58 1/2" from the floor to the bottom of the overhead cabinet."
Based on that, we decided that, as Reace suspected, the door frame and screen door frame provide a sufficient barrier, so we're not adding a wood panel. If anyone is interested, we first saw that panel in a photo posted by Bobccat:
Escape Trailer Owners Community - Bobccat's Album: Out of places - Picture

[dfandrews]

March 29,2015-Since there have been posts recently regarding options, and we have revised our build sheet about once a month since November, I thought it would be good to bump this forward, along with the changes we have made. The changes are primarily because the US/Canadian dollar exchange rates have given us some cushion in our budget, and we've eliminated a few things.
Edits are in italics.

The 17A choices and why:
--17: We wanted sleeping space for four grown people. It must fit in the driveway: we didn’t want it stored in a rental yard. The 19 would just fit if I were to trim the house roof fascia flush with the front wall, but that is not an option. 17 is also the largest model with the A option (see next item). Tow can be with a 3500 LB. tug rating (1900 lb. dry + 1000 lb. stuff).
--A or B: We have discussed this at length. Our use is camping, as opposed to “living” in the trailer. We made the transition from ground camping to tent camping to tent trailer camping. So, the porta-potty is entirely sufficient. We won’t have grey and black tanks to contend with and maintain, nor the need to transport the trailer to the dump station for emptying. We can just carry (or transport with the tow vehicle only) the porta-potty base tank to a dump station or toilet, including at home. Grey water will be a bucket or tote, meeting campground requirements for sealing. We can also use a 4’x4’ “shower” tent for nighttime porta-potty use right outside the trailer door, as necessary and desired and as weather permits.
Showers are available at many public and private campgrounds, KOA, public pools, even YMCA’s. The showers in 17’s and 19’s are small, with no elbow raising space, and the water supply is limited. We have used our trusty white porcelain wash basin, for decades, for our day-to-day needs, and it is quite sufficient.
We have the permanent front bed, and when there are only the two of us, we can leave the dinette set up.
--Options:
-3 Burner stove – NO – if we are doing that much cooking, we will be outside. We did request rotating the stove 90° for more counter space.
-Stainless steel stove, stove cover, hood – YES – Durability and appearance.
-Stainless steel sink and chrome faucet – YES – Durability and appearance.
-Larger frig. – NO – questions about efficacy of cooling remain; the ice chest works well.
-Added interior 12V outlets – NO – I can add later as needed.
-Added exterior access hatch – YES – Driver side front: for access under the permanent bed.
-Added LED brake lights – YES – For safety, because we will have the bike rack option.
-Added window – YES: Forum discussions and conversations have convinced us that the ventilation and light will be a plus in the kitchen area.
-MaxxFan options – NO – These can be easily added if a need is determined later.
-A/C – YES – we live in So.Cal. and have been known to camp where it is over 90-100°, and even white trailers absorb solar energy and get much hotter than the surroundings. Added Digital thermostat: it controls the fan on/off as well as cooling, and works better than the clunky electro-mechanical one.
-Aluminum rims – YES – Looks and maintenance.
-Bike rack ready – YES – We have bikes.
-Brake controller – NO – We have one.
-Larger battery and SOLAR – YES: Group 29: Rear frame on the 17 changes with the larger batteries. so it's difficult to add later, and we have decided to add Solar, now that the 160 watt panel is available.
-Dual propane – YES – more cost effective (and safer) to have the ETI install, rather than leave as an option if we need it later. And, we get the nice cover.
-Equalizer hitch – NO - We now have a Honda Pilot, and the mfr. says "no" to use of a WDH.
-Added exterior 12V outlets or 120V outlets – YES: We added a 12V exterior outlet adjacent to the 120V exterior outlet, so we can conveniently use radio, air compressor, etc.
-Exterior propane quick connect – NO – We have a high pressure camp stove w/built-in regulator, that we will connect separately, either to one of the tanks directly, or through a TEE/valve at the dual tank assembly.
-High lift axle – NO – Not required
-2-way hot water tank – NO: we found out from ETI that this is really two purchases, the other is the hot water tank itself (part of the exterior shower option). So that would be another $600. We'll heat our own water on the stove or outside on the camp stove.
-Exterior shower – NO – Cost greatly outweighs desirability.
-Hitch wheel – YES – Wife says I am to save my back at all costs, so she does not out-live me. It appears that some find the wheel problematic; we will use a plywood pad underneath to maintain it's intended function, which is to roll.
-Inverter – NO – We have an existing 300W portable inverter that is sufficient for our electronic devices. We make coffee with a French press or a percolator. If we have a need later we can acquire a larger one.
-LED light packages – YES - I was going to convert on my own, but LED prices (for reliable products) make it a reasonable choice to have ETI include them at the build.
-LED captains reading lamps – YES – Nice feature, that is cost-effective to have ETI install.
-Microwave – YES – The Dometic model is designed for RV use, so there are no warranty questions regarding its location/use. Cost is comparable to other small comsumer M/W’s.
-Portable toilet and cabinet – NO - We have a porta-potty, so we are getting the cabinet w/door only.
-Propane tanks filled – YES – Convenience: ETI’s fill charge is similar to other locations.
-Removable power cord – NO – This is not cost-effective. What I did is buy a separate 50 ft. 30-TT 10 ga. extension (at a great price), so I can just use it, or use the built-in one, or both.
-Shelves – NO – We will install what we need at the locations and heights we determine to be most advantageous (mostly on adjustable height track).
-Storage box – YES – Keeps all the wet, yucky, and oily/greasy things out of the trailer. It is a very effective rock guard.
-Screen room – NO – I hate bugs. But I refuse to be in a bug prison.
-Surge protector – YES – It is excellent protection from the vagaries of shore power. ETI’s charge is the same as mfr’s list price.
-TV and stereo prewires/etc. – NO – we use our laptop and/or phone connections.
TV/Movies: We use the laptop/phone hotspot.
Weather: I have a Uniden radio scanner that I use to get weather service information.
Music: we have an excellent 120v/12v radio. Its speaker is sufficient (because I’m not going to drag E/Q equipment out to a little F/G trailer with wood surfaces throughout, analyze it and expect studio quality.)
-Thermal windows and extra insulation – YES – Necessary for hot or cold weather.
-Spray foam under trailer – YES – same as above
-Heat pads – NO – If it’s that cold, we’re rolling away. We only have the fresh water tank.
-Starter kit – NO – we have that stuff.
-Custom Formica – YES – Wife factor: she’s the artist, I’m only the engineer.
-Custom fabric – YES – Wife factor...

Other items:
-Separate switch at door for interior O/H light.
-Install additional handle at door interior. (We're gettin' old).
-Prewire O/H cabinets for 12V DC.
-Extra cabinet doors: one for the porta-potty location, and another next to it for access under the bed. ETI installs.
-Possible pre-wire from porch light to right under awning:
Not This: Reace gave me a wiring path solution so I'll do it myself- owner-added LED tape under awning (we have rolls of LED tape just waiting for such an application!). The plan is to control the porch light only from the interior switch by the door, and use the rocker switch on the porch light assembly to sub-control the LED tape. The interior switch is then the master switch.
-We get the scraps from all counter and cabinet cuttings, for doing matching little accoutrements.

[Brian B-P]

Don, although my choices would be different, I'm impressed how thoroughly and rationally you've worked out the choices for your style of camping.

[rbryan4]

This is how you're supposed to do a build sheet -- tailor it to YOUR style of camping and YOUR needs, not someone else's. You've obviously given each choice a lot of thought and I congratulate you for a job well done.

[dfandrews]

Thanks, Brian; Thanks, Robert.
What can I say? I've been doing engineering analyses of various sorts for 50 years.
But this one should be about the last big one. 45 more pay periods and then, out-a-there!!!

[David H]

Don, you may wish to confirm with ETI regarding the make of the microwave. I was informed that the microwave was a Dometic CDMW07W, however when I picked my 17B up last May there was a Danby Designer series MW installed, and it was a standard countertop spec and not RV.

[dfandrews]

Originally Posted by David H

Don, you may wish to confirm with ETI regarding the make of the microwave. I was informed that the microwave was a Dometic CDMW07W, however when I picked my 17B up last May there was a Danby Designer series MW installed, and it was a standard countertop spec and not RV.

Thanks, David.
I will add that question to my next inquiry.

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by David H

Don, you may wish to confirm with ETI regarding the make of the microwave. I was informed that the microwave was a Dometic CDMW07W, however when I picked my 17B up last May there was a Danby Designer series MW installed, and it was a standard countertop spec and not RV.

I picked up Ten Forward on July 3 last year. I've got a Danby, it works like every other brand of microwave I've owned (including the HUGE countertop Amana brand from the 80s). I've camped lots now in Ten Forward. It works just like it's supposed to, I don't think it's brand as much as how it works. YMMV

[StarvingHyena]

Donna you are always so positive .... thanks for being such a quick responder!

[Brian B-P]

I have a Dometic in an RV. It is not the same model as quoted above - ours is a DCMW12B - but is probably similar (the "B" or "W" on the end just means "black" or "white" housing, while I'll bet "MW" just means "microwave"). It works fine, but it may be that the only thing "RV" about it is that the case is designed to allow mounting via a bezel which screws into the cabinet face, holding it securely in the opening. With the bezel removed, it just looks like a normal microwave oven... and it is in fact made by LG according to the label inside.

Oh, yes... ours failed, and was readily replaced under warranty by Dometic. That may have had nothing to do with the RV use.

[gbaglo]

Yes but, if it is for an RV or a boat or "digital ready" you can charge more.

[David H]

Microwave – YES – The Dometic model is designed for RV use, so there are no warranty questions regarding its location/use. Cost is comparable to other small comsumer M/W’s.

Donna, my comment to Don WRT the Danby MW only related to Don's rational (quoted above) and not the Danby suitability or quality or the change of make by ETI.

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by David H

Donna, my comment to Don WRT the Danby MW only related to Don's rational (quoted above) and not the Danby suitability or quality or the change of make by ETI.

No problemo. I was just commenting that folks shouldn't be concerned that it wasn't a Dometic. I'm happy, it fits the space, it works